Intermittent wipers

[Blaketon]

I am fitting a Retronics wiper kits to my Traveller, which has a DR3A wiper motor, shown in the attached photo. I also attach the wiring diagram, though my car is one of the last Travellers and is negative earth. Being a late model, it has a steering lock and the wiper switch is going in the redundant ignition key hole.

I think I am correct to say that I need to insert the 10A fused wire into the black with green wire, that goes between the wiper motor and the dashboard switch (Item 46). Is this correct? The switch has three wires, one green, one black with green and a black one, which is presumably earth.

I think I could connect the 2A fused wire to the same terminal, on the wiper switch, as the green wire?

Has anyone fitted one of these kits?

[svenedin]

The wiring to the wiper motor may seem rather strange but it is like that so that the self parking works when the wipers have been switched off.

The wiring at the motor is: Green is permanently live when the ignition is on. Black is earth but is only for the self parking to operate. Green/black is switched earth for normal motor operation (it goes to the wiper switch).

The green wire you have at the wiper switch is nothing to do with the wipers. The wipers just need a switch between green/black and earth (black). The green wire at the wiper switch is going to the heater motor. It is just using the live side of the wiper switch as a convenient point to pick up the live. If you don't believe me, disconnect the green wire at the wiper switch and try the heater blower.

Stephen

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[Blaketon]

Thanks for that; most useful. Confirms that power supply for control module can be taken from the green terminal, so the other wire (Causes the motor to operate intermittently) has to go to the black and green. I guess that the red wire, on top of the motor, is connected to the black and green wire, as that is connected with the self park.

[King Kenny]

I don't know if this helps or not, but this is how I wired my intermittent variable timer switch many years ago.

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[svenedin]

I think you need this wiring diagram and follow for "chassis side switching wiper motor". Lucas DR3a is an earth (chassis) side switching motor. Obviously follow the correct polarity instructions.

https://retronicsonline.com/wp-content/ ... ctions.pdf

So the 10A fuse is connected to the green/black wire before the switch.

Good luck. Certainly needed wipers today. Deluge!


Stephen

[Blaketon]

Many thanks, I had a paper copy of the diagrams but have downloaded the PDF to the "Stick" on which I keep Minor tech items, many scanned from Minor Matters.

Thanks for confirming that the black and green wire is the one!!

Car is in dry dock at the moment, until I rectify the clutch hydraulics. The other jobs are being done as fill in jobs and it's only fit the wiper intermittent kit and to wire up the new rear fog lamp (The switch is all in place and I just need to run a wire to the back) left to do. Once the car is useable again, I can get back to the new (Old) front seats, the passenger side being a folder. I am altering them to take MGB / Midget headrests and my version of the anti tip device used on Minis from around 1980. I've modified the drivers seat and have yet to do the passenger seat.

[svenedin]

I must admit I have considered the intermittent wiper kit and also a two-speed wiper motor conversion. I have to consciously resist the urge to fiddle and "improve" because I like to keep things as factory standard as possible. The two-speed wiper motor looks different so I could not tolerate that showing so prominently in the engine bay. The intermittent kit is more discreet and seeing as you already have a hole where the ignition switch would be it makes sense. I would have to mount the switch elsewhere so it becomes a no.

Stephen

[Blaketon]

One more question. Where the 10A fused wire is let into the black/green wire (I was assuming that the switch was before the motor but I see that the black green is a feed TO the switch), does it have to be let into the middle of the black/green wire or can it share a piggy back connection on the wiper switch itself? I can't see it makes a difference but better to ask than assume.

[Blaketon]

I couldn't see how what I had in mind wouldn't work and the instructions say simply to connect to motor and switch, so I did it. I took the power supply, for the unit, from a piggy back spade terminal on the washer switch, which is next to the wiper switch. It all works. Below is a picture of the new switch in place. I had to make an insert to go in the dash. It's not very thick and is basically a stepped washer. I turned it from brass and parted it off. I then very carefully counter bored the front, so the shakeproof washer could be recessed, putting an end mill in the tailstock of the lathe. So that it wouldn't tarnish, I got it chrome plated. It was easier than machining such a small part from stainless steel.

That completes the dashboard related bits, aside from needing to run a wire to the rear foglamp. The gauges were all in the open glove box when I bought the car, so when I made the panel for them, I added rear fog lamp, Retronics hazard warning lights and cigarette lighter. When my father was still with us, he was the satnav but alas I now have to rely on a satnav that I bought after his passing. When my father and I went to places we didn't know (Usually car related), we'd work out the route and he would call it out. Now I input the route I want to follow, into the satnav (I don't follow it blindly) and let it call it back to me as I go.

The heated rear screen switch remains under the dash, as I felt that would have made the dash panel cluttered.

[panky]

Very neat. I used the old Maplin kit and used the same place for the switch. One of the most useful mods I've done.

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The tape was to prevent the steering column scratching the dash when I replaced it after paint.

[Blaketon]

I have a piece of Gorilla tape over the cowl screw!!