ESM clutch lift kit. -instructions

[ndevans]

Does anyone have a copy of the ESM clutch lift kit that they could kindly scan and email to me please? I bought the kit recently, and want to fit it this weekend as I have the engine out, but embarrassingly I have lost the instructions! I think they got thrown out in a garage clear out to make space for the engine & gearbox when I pulled them out
Thanks in advance,
Neil

[philthehill]

I know it is not the original ESM instructions but it is a start.

viewtopic.php?t=26700&start=15

[ndevans]

That's great, thanks Phil. Don't suppose you have the images?

[philthehill]

Unfortunately I do not have any ESM images but I have done a similar conversion to the ESM set up and photos of my set up are below

Hydraulic clutch 1.JPG (831.58 KiB) Viewed 4588 times

Hydraulic clutch 2.JPG (824.31 KiB) Viewed 4588 times

Hydraulic clutch 3.JPG (855.79 KiB) Viewed 4585 times

I found that the crossmember mounting was not strong enough and added a strengthening plate to the rear face of the cross member (see photo).
I have also extended the bottom of the clutch pedal master cylinder to get the operating rod alignment correct (see photo).

[ndevans]

Thanks again Phil, that is very helpful. I have now found the instructions (down the side of the sofa, where else?), and I have scanned them in and posted them below. (Moderators; I will be calling ESM on Monday and will confirm whether they are happy for them to be posted here-if not I will delete them).

I notice your master cylinder is mounted slightly off vertical-is this OK? ESM instructions do not state that it should be mounted vertical, but that is how I would interpret them.

20251004175734_001.jpg (1.26 MiB) Viewed 4556 times

20251004175734_002.jpg (832.55 KiB) Viewed 4556 times

[philthehill]

Mounting the master cylinder off vertical is perfectly ok. The master cylinder cannot be fitted vertically as it would then foul the floor.
My set up has worked very well for many years without fault or concern.

[ndevans]

Great, I'll probably do mine the same.

Thanks

[philthehill]

Mounting the master cylinder off vertical is perfectly ok. With my set up the master cylinder cannot be fitted vertically as it would then foul the floor. To get everything aligned my master cylinder appears to be mounted slightly higher on the crossmember resulting in the cant. I note from the instructions that the master cylinder is mounted on the front face of the rear upright of the crossmember. That means you have to remove the crossmember to service or repair the master cylinder. My master cylinder is mounted on the rear face of the rear upright of the crossmember so that the master cylinder can be removed for service or repair without having to remove the cross member.
My set up has worked very well for many years without fault or concern.

[ndevans]

Yes, that's what I want to talk to ESM about. The master cylinder mounting is machined smooth on the forward face of the flange, but if I attach it to the inner face of the rear of the crossmember it will be the rough non-machined face against the crossmember, which does not seem right. Maybe your clutch pedal is slightly different to mine and that accounts for the need to mount mine slightly further forward?

[philthehill]

My clutch pedal is different in that I have attached an extension to the master cylinder operating lever to get the alignment correct.
There was no consideration as to the length of the operating rod as the new operating rod was made to be adjustable so as to suit the application.
My spare 0.75" Girling master cylinder has a reasonably flat service on the rear of the mounting flange which would not exclude it from being mounted on the inside of the crossmember. Saying that a couple of passes with a file would be of benefit to the rear of the mounting flange.

[ndevans]

I'll have to make a judgement when I fit it then.

[ndevans]

Does the master cylinder rod need to be exactly in line with the clutch pedal, or can it be at a slight angle? There appears to be a bit of play in the rod as supplied, almost like it's on a spherical bearing or bush.

[svenedin]

I hope you will forgive my ignorance but what is the purpose of this modification? Is it to reduce pedal effort with clutches other than standard Minor clutches?

With a standard Minor clutch there is a little modification that the Morris Minor workshop does routinely that reduces the effort of extending the rather strong pedal return spring. This is to fit a throttle return spring bracket to the engine backplate and hook the return spring to that. It reduces the pedal effort quite significantly. It also reduces the wear in the linkage as it is not under so much tension.

Stephen

[philthehill]

It is better if the operating rod is in line with the centre of the master cylinder.
There is a mushroom end to the operating rod within the cylinder so there is some flexibility in alignment.

There are several reasons for the fitting of a hydraulic clutch system. Here are some.
1. Gets rid of the poorly designed and installed mechanical linkage especially the bush in the chassis rail which can and does fail.
2. Allows for the adjustment of the pedal pressure by fitting different internal diameter master and slave cylinders.
3. Allows for a much smoother clutch operation.
4. Gets rid of any engine vibrations/noises transmitted through the mechanical clutch linkage.
5. The mechanical linkage has a hard time with uprated clutch pressure plates.

Having a hydraulic clutch system fitted to my Minor I would not go back to a mechanical linkage.

As regards the spring modification - just over stretch the original spring to slightly lengthen it and refit.

[ndevans]

I'm fitting it primarily because my wife struggles to reach the pedals, and then finds it a struggle to depress the clutch. The hydraulic lift kit should at least make life easier when depressing the clutch. Plus all the other benefits Phil mentions, in particular the smoother, more progressive operation.
Yes I have used the mechanical clutch lift for years and got on OK with it, but if you are used to the light, smooth progressive clutch of modern cars, a Minor clutch can take some adapting to. I'm used to it, but I've been driving it since 1986!

[svenedin]

Thanks for explaining Phil.

Personally I don't have an issue with the ordinary linkage but I only have a standard clutch. Funnily enough I had been thinking the clutch pedal was rather hard work recently and it turned out that the linkage had become worn with disintegrating bushes. Having fitted new parts including a Spuerflex bush it is so much better.

Stephen

[svenedin]

I'm fitting it primarily because my wife struggles to reach the pedals, and then finds it a struggle to depress the clutch. The hydraulic lift kit should at least make life easier when depressing the clutch. Plus all the other benefits Phil mentions, in particular the smoother, more progressive operation.
Yes I have used it for years and got on OK with it, but I you are used to the light, smooth progressive clutch of modern cars, a Minor clutch can take some adapting to. I'm used to it, but I've been driving it since 1986!

Ha! Yes I'm since 1989. I find the reverse is true. I like the direct mechanical linkage of the Minor and I find modern hydraulic clutches have no feel to them.

Stephen

[ndevans]

I have hit upon a problem.

IMG_20251005_160311368~2.jpg (1.22 MiB) Viewed 4392 times

X marks the approximate position of the clutch master cylinder. I can't see how the clutch master cylinder can fit in the cross member without fouling the pipe from the brake master cylinder to the servo in the engine bay.

Phil, I can't quite see how your brake pipe from the brake master cylinder exits the chassis leg and avoids the clutch master cylinder.

The only thing I can think of is to reroute the brake master cylinder to servo pipe so that it exits on the other side of the chassis leg and runs along the outer side to the servo.

[philthehill]

The brake pipe makes a very sharp turn to go up and over the clutch master cylinder.
The clutch master cylinder is also mounted slightly lower and canted to give additional clearance.

[ndevans]

Your brake pipe must make a very sharp exit with a very small bend radius! What is the minimum recommended bend radius for brake pipe?

My rear brakes are also servo'd - I could lose the long servo to rear brake pipe and go straight out of the back of the brake m/c as originally built. That would free up a bit of room in a very congested area. Is it ok to have servo front brakes (discs) and non-servos on the rear?