Suspension arms jack pad

[Mr Spigot]

The workshop manual recommends the use of a 'special jack pad' when jacking up the front suspension arms, to prevent the jack from slipping. Is such a pad available or is there a practical alternative, other than the block of wood I have been using for many years?!

[philthehill]

The only jacking safety pad/anti slip bracket I am aware of is that fitted to early Post Office vehicles. It was basically a 'U' clamp fitted around the lower suspension arms. The 'U' clamp stopped the jack slipping down the lower suspension arms.
Easily replicated using a suitable exhaust 'U' clamp.

[geoberni]

I'd never heard of the Plate Phil spoke of, so I looked it up.
.

Jacking Plate.JPG (110.22 KiB) Viewed 3594 times

For some reason the person responsible decided to give the nomenclature of Plate - Jacking Bracket - RH and the Quantity 2....

I wonder if anyone ever spent a while looking for Plate - Jacking Bracket - LH

[Mr Spigot]

Thanks Phil and geoberni. Now it is mentioned, I recall this being shown in the old MMOC 'Technical Tips' book published sometime in the 1980s. Seems like a nice cheap and simple solution. I will have to find my old copy!

[myoldjalopy]

Here you go:

2025-10-03 16.32.38.jpg (548.93 KiB) Viewed 3572 times

Dunno why its sideways.............

[les]

That’s interesting, I had a pair of these plates, however I fitted them with the plate underneath.

[svenedin]

Great idea. Handy but I do keep a suitable piece of wood in the boot so that I can jack under the front chassis rail anyway. This would be useful when doing suspension work though.

Stephen

[philthehill]

Les
The idea of fitting the plate on top was that the head of the jack was securely held between the 'U' Bolts. The 'U' bolts preventing the head of the jack from sliding on the underside of the suspension arm.
Of course these jacking plates when fitted correctly are only suitable for the jacks as supplied to the Post Office. Trolley jacks need an alternative to the plates/U bolts if the same outcome is required.
Phil

[les]

Yes I appreciate that Phil, maybe on top would be considered more positive, however the jack I used was prevented from slipping by the U bolt nuts. Plate underneath had the advantage of protecting the underside of the arms from any damage from the jack.

[silloyd]

... Trolley jacks need an alternative to the plates/U bolts if the same outcome is required.
Phil

Does anyone have a solution for a trolley jack or non-GPO jack please?

[philthehill]

A solution to the problem of a trolley jack slipping is to fit a angle bracket to the jack pad which then hooks up into the gap between the bottom trunnion and the lower suspension arms.

[les]

I made this item for use in conjunction with a trolley jack, it locates on each chassis leg and clears the sump. The jack being positioned centrally on the bar. The rear, I just rest a piece of thick ply on the jack pad and lift under the diff drain plug. Not sure but the saloon legs are probably similar spacing wise.

IMG_3897.jpeg (2.62 MiB) Viewed 3450 times

[silloyd]

A solution to the problem of a trolley jack slipping is to fit a angle bracket to the jack pad which then hooks up into the gap between the bottom trunnion and the lower suspension arms.

Thanks, will take a look at that

I made this item for use in conjunction with a trolley jack, it locates on each chassis leg and clears the sump. The jack being positioned centrally on the bar. The rear, I just rest a piece of thick ply on the jack pad and lift under the diff drain plug. Not sure but the saloon legs are probably similar spacing wise.
IMG_3897.jpeg

Thanks. I assume that is a steel beam, can you confirm please?

I was wary about lifting by the diff drain plug, seemed a very small point to balance the rear and a lot of strain on the thread, but if it works it works!

[svenedin]

I don't like lifting on the diff drain plug with a flat rubber pad on a trolley jack or even a piece of wood between jack pad and diff. Every time I have done this (which is a few) it has caused the diff to leak from the drain plug. I prefer to use a trolley jack that has a cup rather than a flat pad. This avoids putting all the weight on the diff drain plug. Alternatively jack on on the axle to the side of the diff and then place axle stands.


Stephen

[les]

Yes, it’s a steel beam, well actually it’s a rectangular tube, the timber made from plywood layers. I take the point about the drain plug, the thought has crossed my mind, maybe I should hollow out the piece of timber I use, letting the area around the plug take the pressure.

[svenedin]

Yes, it’s a steel beam, well actually it’s a rectangular tube, the timber made from plywood layers. I take the point about the drain plug, the thought has crossed my mind, maybe I should hollow out the piece of timber I use, letting the area around the plug take the pressure.

Yes you could just drill a hole in the wood so that the pressure is not put on the drain plug.


Stephen

[les]

I’ll do that Stephen.

[philthehill]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126857310756 ... BMis-ghrZm

[Bill_qaz]

Or just jack one side at a time under the spring and put axle stands under the axle tube.
Most trolley jacks with the pivoting pad the centre indent misses the plug and lifts on the case either side.
The ebay item seems a very expensive solution.

[Mervin]

"Yes you could just drill a hole in the wood so that the pressure is not put on the drain plug."
That's exactly what I have done Steven. Not a hole through the wood, but a drilled recess to accomodate the protruding end of the plug. The wood then makes contact with the bottom of differential housing.