Performance camshaft.... wont start!!!
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yes, you have to remove the followers before you remove the old camshaft, but I found I had to remove the sump anyway because to undo the crank pulley nut I had to wedge a piece of wood in by the crankshaft to stop it from turning.
Many of the high lift rocker sets have roller rockers, so there is no side loading on the valve stems. Also because of the higher ratio there is more leverage from the valve springs on the followers, so valve bounce is pushed further up the rev range.
Many of the high lift rocker sets have roller rockers, so there is no side loading on the valve stems. Also because of the higher ratio there is more leverage from the valve springs on the followers, so valve bounce is pushed further up the rev range.
There is steady trail of stories on the Mini boards of worn out cams/followers/stuck valves/dropped valves - even broken rockers when using the high lift sets. It's better to have the higher lift at the camshaft - it will not give such high acceleration to the valve train - but any higher lift and/or higher spring pressure increases the wear rates quite considerably. Even the roller rockers still have to 'wipe' across the tip of the valve stem - it helps but it doesn't stop the wear. If going for this you should use the hidural bronze guides and NOT fit stem oil seals. The test was in one of the Mini mags a few months back. It's always better to increase the breathing by having bigger inlet valves and throat design - only when this route runs out of steam is it worth chasing more valve lift. Of course for out and out competition use wear is not important - and so maximum valve size and valve lift are used.



Is the camshaft end-float ok ? Did you fit new cam followers ? I rather assumed you had already checked the valve clearances - check also none of the rockers are catching on the valve springs - or tapping the inside of the rocker cover. I set inlets to 12 thou and exhausts to 15 - to allow for the ex valve getting hot and expanding more than the inlets.



how can I check the camshaft end float? also I dont see how that would make a clicking noise. the noise is still there when the rocker cover is off.. and listening to it running with the rocker cover off it sounds like one of the tappets, but I set them all to 12 thou only a couple of days ago.. ill recheck them anyway.
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
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End float would mean timing cover off yet again - remove chain - pull/push cam via the big sprocket and try to measure the movement. Is the rocker shaft in good nick ? Usually the rocker bushes are fine - it's the shaft that wears. And is there oil getting up to the shaft ok ? You need to try to decide if the noise is once per rev or once every two revs.



I tried rocking the rockers sideway and they seemed to be a bit loose on the shaft so I swapped them fora a spare set from an A+ engine, and the clicking is still there and still exactly the same
while the engine is idling the ticking gets louder, and then fades and gets louder again, and it speeds up when u rev the engine. with the rocker cover off it sounds like it is coming from the tappets, but when I have the tappet clearence set to zero the clicking is still there!!! aarrgh.

If I run the engine with the tappet chest covers off and poke each follower in turn while the engine is idling, surely the sound will change/stop when I hit the right one??
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
bmcecosse, I would prefer the latter description
It is not extremely loud at all, but can be easily hard above the exhaust with the bonnet closed, and even when you are stood outside the car with it running. It doesnt sound right at all, even though the engine functions fine. Anyway Im off on holiday and will have another go at it when I get back, using another set of followere as suggested. thanks for all the support,
Tim

Tim
I have found the the problem with the ticking noise... I had the engine ticking over then it made a loud crack and stalled...remove the rocker cover and one of the rockers had snapped in two..
standard rockers back on and only a very light ticking noise from the tappets to indicate they are "well oiled" as bmcecosse put it!! thanks for everyones help and suggestions, Tim

standard rockers back on and only a very light ticking noise from the tappets to indicate they are "well oiled" as bmcecosse put it!! thanks for everyones help and suggestions, Tim


Last edited by picky on Sun Sep 04, 2005 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
rocker shaft seems fine, the rockers I was using are sintered, as fitted to the later A+ engines I think. The pressed steel ones are less likely to snap. Im using pressed steel ones now, but Im hoping to get some decent forged ones asap!!
P.S. Im using a high lift camshaft and double valve springs, which obviously put extra stress on the rockers.
P.S. Im using a high lift camshaft and double valve springs, which obviously put extra stress on the rockers.
That rocker has been extensively 'lightened' - which is a NO NO with the sintered ones !! The pressed steel ones are just fine. But why the double valve springs ? What revs are you hoping to pull ? Double springs just load up the whole valve train - adding wear and unreliability, as you have found out.


