Cardan shaft u/j removal

[Bill_qaz]

This may be where I am going wrong. I only pushed the first bearing cup in part way, so it was still a bit proud of the yoke, then I engaged the trunnion in the bearing. I then started pushing the bearing cup in from the other side.

So if I understand you correctly, I should do it in the following order:-

• 1 push the first bearing cup into the yoke partly

• 2 enter the trunnion into the other side of the yoke first, then move it back so it engages with the bearing cup

• 3 push both bearing cup and trunnion into the yoke

• 4 start the second bearing cup in the other side of the yoke

• 5 slowly push the bearing cup in whist wiggling the trunnion slightly to ensure it engages properly

How far do you push the first bearing cup in? To just under the circlip groove, or a bit further so that the trunnion engages in the second bearing cup earlier as it travels through the yoke?

This still relies on both cups entering the yoke squarely. This is not as easy as it sounds as the yoke itself is not square so will not sit square in the vice.

Yes if you push 1st one past circlip groove,using cross to keep rollers in place, you can then slide cross over until it protrude from shaft enough to start 2nd opposite cap onto cross without coming fully out of 1st cup. The cross now acts as a guide to keep cup aligned while you push it in. You can even start it into the hole by gentle tapping with soft hammer.
Put clip in groove of 1st cap then push second cap home until 1st is pushed to its clip, now fit 2nd clip.
The shape of the shaft or yoke is of no consequence as you should only be pushing on the cap with the cross engaged to provide alignment. Yoke is then same process repeated.
With a long shaft it helps if someone can hold the other end up for you or you can support it level with the vice.

Hope that makes sense and helps

[svenedin]

As far as I know, my U/Js have never been replaced since my car was new.....

Stephen

Either you are very lucky and the joints on your car are armour plated and bombproof, or you are immune to noise and vibration......

I ran mine once with worn joints for far too long. The noise and vibration got unbearable before I replaced them, and by that time I think it had damaged the yokes as they had ovalled, so the bearing cups were no longer an interference fit. Had to get a complete recon shaft.

Perhaps it’s a question of balancing? I have never noticed vibrations from there. Balancing, regular greasing as per manual, original better quality u/js and regular use but not high mileage.

Stephen

[ndevans]

Managed to get the bearing cup out, sure enough two rollers had fallen to the base. I smothered them in grease to retain them then refitted the cup. Seems to have gone back on ok, though feels like it's binding slightly.

Now I have to remove the other one completely and re-orientate so that the grease point does not foul.

Grrrr. These things should be easier!

[ndevans]

OK, so got the other joint out and turned it so the grease point is on the other side. It is now facing the diff flange plate, and it is still fouling, if anything it is worse than the other way round. It is the body of the trunnion that is fouling, where it is raised for the grease point to screw in, it fouls without the greasepoint being fitted. No photos, I will post some later.

%#@&%^£#@@****!

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[Bill_qaz]

Just a thought you are not pivoting it way further than it will ever reach in use?

[ndevans]

The first picture shows it with the trunnion hard up against the yoke flange, the second picture shows it rotated as far as it will go in the other direction.
When the trunnion fouls the yoke it is virtually parallel to the plane of the flange, i.e. it is a position where it has virtually not pivoted in that direction. In the other direction yes, it can pivot freely through a far greater angle that it would need to.

[ndevans]

It feels to me like the hole for the grease point has been put in at too steep an angle with respect to the plane of the trunnion. I think the grease point should be much nearer the axis of rotation.

[ndevans]

End on photos to illustrate the point better.

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First fully rotated in the opposite direction from the grease point. This is way more movement than is would be experienced when in use on the car.

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Second rotated as far as it will go the other way, bottoming out on the raised area for the grease point. This seems nowhere near enough movement.

[Bill_qaz]

I would agree from picture it's not enough.
The question is why?
Is the joint specifically for a Minor, many are generic based on width and cup diameter.
How does it compare with the original in respect of the casting shape and dimensions and grease nipple position?

[ndevans]

It came from ESM. I haven't compared it closely to the ones I took off, which are about 10-15 years old, but although they are different castings they look much the same in the way the grease point is positioned. I will post photos later.
I spoke to ESM and they suggest the trunnions should be installed with the grease points facing the shaft at each end.

[Bill_qaz]

It came from ESM. I haven't compared it closely to the ones I took off, which are about 10-15 years old, but although they are different castings they look much the same in the way the grease point is positioned. I will post photos later.
I spoke to ESM and they suggest the trunnions should be installed with the grease points facing the shaft at each end.

So from your picture is it now facing the flange rather than the shaft?
You will be well practised when you turn it around

[ndevans]

It came from ESM. I haven't compared it closely to the ones I took off, which are about 10-15 years old, but although they are different castings they look much the same in the way the grease point is positioned. I will post photos later.
I spoke to ESM and they suggest the trunnions should be installed with the grease points facing the shaft at each end.

So from your picture is it now facing the flange rather than the shaft?
You will be well practised when you turn it around

Yes, it's facing the diff flange currently. I will turn it the other way this evening and post further photos. It was better with the grease point facing the shaft, but not a lot, I still felt there was not enough movement.

[geoberni]

Is it me.... , but your photos don't look to have the lubrication nipple orientated in the same way as the Workshop manual shows them....

[ndevans]

Not checked the workshop manual. I will turn it round and post photos tonight.

[mowogg]

From memory it needs to be turned around as suggested, then you need to orientate it for the nipple to align to the ahaft. I think there are 3 wrong options and 1 correct one

[geoberni]

Not checked the workshop manual. I will turn it round and post photos tonight.

Look in the Lubrication section, P and PP....
Example:

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[mowogg]

These are the arrangements on my spare which was professionally rebuilt

[ndevans]

I swapped it over so that the grease point is facing the shaft. It is ok without the grease nipple in, but no better with it in, possibly worse. Photos below.

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Without grease nipple, rotated fully right

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Without grease nipple, fully rotated to the left

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With grease nipple, rotated fully right

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With grease nipple, hardly any rotation left possible

[ndevans]

This is the location of the grease nipple. It fouls the shaft virtually when horizontal to the shaft. Note how it sits relative to the recess in the yoke.

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I then rummaged in my box of parts and found another spare unused U/J. This is a slightly different design, although the codes on the boxes are the same, RGUJ115.
The grease nipple is not as prominent above the trunnion, and the nipple when fitted sits more in the plane of the trunnion and less upright.

One on the left is the one that does not fit, on the right is the spare I found. The different placement of the grease point is obvious.

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I have now fitted this U/J successfully, and it rotates freely in both planes. The grease nipple fits neatly right into the recess in the base of the yoke.

[Bill_qaz]

You could fit a standard length grease nipple rather than the long ones you have fitted. This will give more clearance but still useable.