Cardan shaft u/j removal

[ndevans]

Got a humming sound & vibration at speed, suspect onè or both cardan shaft universal joints as they are old, at least 10 years/30,000 miles, (relatively) easy to get at, and I have spares.
I've done this job before, but forgotten the knack of getting the u/js out of the yoke-can some kind person remind me please?

[les]

If I remember correctly, remove the circlips, knock one of the caps further in which will drive the opposite cap out, or at least enough to grab hold of it, the joint should then loosen up and give access to the remaining caps, and main body.

[Bill_qaz]

https://share.google/lbGtzeD7n78L1lVTH

Reasonable method with no special tools

[philthehill]

Make sure that you mark all the yokes so that they go back together in their original positions. It helps keep the balance right.

[ndevans]

Thanks for the replies. So in short, you use a socket of suitable size to fit inside the yoke and push or gently knock the joint so that one bearing cap protrudes, then remove that cap using something like mole grips padded with cloth to avoid damage. You then use a socket sized to fit over the exposed end of the joint to knock it the other way to remove the other bearing cap in the same way. Repeat for the other yoke end.

Does that sound right?

[philthehill]

Yes - after marking the yokes and removing the circlips.
If you intend to replace the UJ you do not need to worry about damaging or marking the old cups.

[geoberni]

Here's another video, always good to get a couple of examples and see where they agree, or sometimes don't.
https://youtu.be/-a9flNLhMP4

[ndevans]

I got both u/js apart in just over an hour tonight, after struggling for 3 and giving up last night!
All bearing surfaces look OK on both trunnions, but one of the bearing cups is a bit tight and feels rough. I'm going to replace both anyway. I will fill them up with grease before fitting.
I don't think I have replaced either since I fitted a recon propshaft in 2009, that is around 40,000 miles.

[Bill_qaz]

If you have bought greaseable type make sure you position trunnion to align with cut out in yoke, so grease gun will fit for future maintenance

[ndevans]

Not going well here. Got one on only to find that the grease nipple appears to foul the shaft, despite being the short type. I thought I'd got it the right way round. Going to turn it the other way but I still think it will foul.
At the other end I got it on ok, but realised just to late that one of the needle rollers had got dislodged and was trapped under the trunnion, so it would not go home properly. Spent 2hrs trying to get it apart again! Problem being that because the trunnion will not sit straight inside the bearing cup, it's very difficult to get the cup to enter the yoke squarely once I'd driven the other bearing cup off. One new U/j now useless. Fortunately I have two spares.

Grrrr.

There must be a better way of doing this than fiddling around with clamps and sockets. Is there a special tool for u/j removal?

[Bill_qaz]

For reassemble I always used a vice to push cups in, with yoke engaged in rollers and keep pivoting the yoke so you know needle rollers are ok. Once both cups are flush the use nut of right size or socket as spacer to push it far enough to insert 1st circlip Then repeat on other side until clip will go in, keep swivelling yoke to ensure no binding. If you find a joint is a bit stiff after both clips are in its ok to knock with copper or hide hammer to centralise.

[ndevans]

I find a socket or nut does not fit squarely on the yokes, so tend to slip. There must be a tool designed to fit over a yoke properly and squarely.

[Bill_qaz]

No I mean against the cup to push it home on assembly. The cross can be put far enough through the hole to start the cup on it and keep rollers in. Once first cup is flush the cross can be slid the other way to start second cup.
Stripping, once clips out I put it on the vice with it open enough so hitting the shaft or flange drive the cup out by punching the cross against the cup.

[ndevans]

Think it's done it again. This time using a vice I've got 3 cups on, but the problem seems to be get the last cup to enter the yoke hole squarely. If it isn't square, the trunnion bearing dislodges a roller.

[Bill_qaz]

Did you push the cross piece over to engage into the cup before trying to push it in? If its engaged it's ok to gently tap it in to start it into the hole.
Its hard to explain in message something I've done hundreds of times but you are too far away to show you.
Could you find someone local to show you?

[ndevans]

This may be where I am going wrong. I only pushed the first bearing cup in part way, so it was still a bit proud of the yoke, then I engaged the trunnion in the bearing. I then started pushing the bearing cup in from the other side.

So if I understand you correctly, I should do it in the following order:-

• 1 push the first bearing cup into the yoke partly

• 2 enter the trunnion into the other side of the yoke first, then move it back so it engages with the bearing cup

• 3 push both bearing cup and trunnion into the yoke

• 4 start the second bearing cup in the other side of the yoke

• 5 slowly push the bearing cup in whist wiggling the trunnion slightly to ensure it engages properly

How far do you push the first bearing cup in? To just under the circlip groove, or a bit further so that the trunnion engages in the second bearing cup earlier as it travels through the yoke?

This still relies on both cups entering the yoke squarely. This is not as easy as it sounds as the yoke itself is not square so will not sit square in the vice.

[svenedin]

I am following this with interest a putting a reminder in my mind that I will ask ESM to do this if it becomes necessary rather than attempting it myself!

Stephen

[ndevans]

I am following this with interest a putting a reminder in my mind that I will ask ESM to do this if it becomes necessary rather than attempting it myself!

Stephen

I've done this several times before, but it seems particularly tricky this time. Slightly easier if you use a sealed bearing as there is no grease point so you don't need to worry which way round it goes, but they don't last as long. Count on replacing within 10-20000 miles if my experience is anything to go by.

[svenedin]

As far as I know, my U/Js have never been replaced since my car was new.....

Stephen

[ndevans]

As far as I know, my U/Js have never been replaced since my car was new.....

Stephen

Either you are very lucky and the joints on your car are armour plated and bombproof, or you are immune to noise and vibration......

I ran mine once with worn joints for far too long. The noise and vibration got unbearable before I replaced them, and by that time I think it had damaged the yokes as they had ovalled, so the bearing cups were no longer an interference fit. Had to get a complete recon shaft.