Top link pivot pin

[Mr Spigot]

I am replacing the swivel pins etc and have a new top link pin to fit each side. Is the pin meant to be a tight fit in the damper arm, or is it supposed to move? My assumption is that it is fixed and the top link moves via the bushes on the other end, but I would be grateful for some confirmation.
Thanks.

[svenedin]

Yes it's tight and the last set of dampers I exchanged I sent back with the pin attached as it was too difficult for me to separate them. Be sure to lubricate the bushes. Red rubber grease or silicone grease can be used on either rubber or poly bushes. I personally prefer silicone as it is more chemically inert. The suspension will squeak without lubrication. A tub of silicone grease will last a lifetime and it can also be used wherever there is a rubber part e.g o-rings in plumbing, brake cylinder dust caps. It is said to prolong the life of rubber by preventing oxygen from attacking it. I personally believe that is true but I cannot provide evidence other than my own experience. Very useful stuff.

Stephen

[Mr Spigot]

Many thanks. My newly ordered tin of silicone grease is to hand, ready for application!

[svenedin]

Super! You will be really pleased I hope by doing the suspension work. It makes a massive difference. Minors are much maligned on handling but actually that is all about badly maintained cars with worn and sloppy suspension etc. If it is all in tip-top condition the car handles very nicely and is a great pleasure to drive. It's no sports car of course but it is a very well behaved car. Once you've done the front you'll inevitably want to do the back.........buy the best leaf springs you can. Not those from the main suppliers but springs that are made to order in England, Jones Springs. You will perhaps need to sit down when they tell you what they cost but take it from me you will not regret it. When I consider Audi wanted to charge me £250 to change 4 spark plugs these things don't seem that expensive......


Stephen

[Mr Spigot]

I hope so! An investigation of a clonking sound when going over potholes led me to get a new steering rack and when taking the old one off discovered the top trunnions were badly worn, so pulled out some NOS swivel pins I bought some years ago and they are being fitted along with the new rack, trunnions and refurbished shock absorbers. Should be ready in time for the National Rally at the end of the month.

[philthehill]

The male taper of the top trunnion pin is designed to be a very tight fit into the female taper of the damper arm. One of the reasons it has a very shallow taper.
I have just replaced the two ex factory top trunnion pins in the damper arms for the later UNF threaded type which in my opinion are better made and do away with the two piece bush retaining washer.
I reduced the dia of the bush retaining washers to 1.5" as there is unneeded excess metal in the washers relative to the size of the poly bushes used. I also had to take approx 0.005" off the back of one of the castellated nuts to get the castellation's and split pin hole to align at a suitable torque.
I have also fitted grease nipples to the under side of the top trunnions so as the poly bushes can be lubricated. I have also removed the excess metal from the bottom inner corner of the top trunnion to give more clearance between the trunnion and the top of the Spax damper which is mounted centrally over the thick/thin suspension arms. There appears to be no reason for the spur of metal on the trunnion.