Won't start

[Farvie]

Just to confirm, so just the one wire from + to earth on pump, then turn ignition on and pray the pump clicks

[svenedin]

Just to confirm, so just the one wire from + to earth on pump, then turn ignition on and pray the pump clicks

Yes but of course leave the wire connected to the top of the pump. That is the negative (for a positive earth car)

Can you confirm you cleaned out the pump filter?

Stephen

[Farvie]

Thank you.
Pump filter was spotless.
I'm just baffled why it's not pumping, it's doing what the old pump did be3i bought the reconditioned one, although car started with new one, it didn't click fast but car started, then few days later I went to start it and wouldn't go.
Really hope I can resolve this as want to get it insured.

[svenedin]

It's entirely possible that the earth wire is bad and that is why both pumps did not work properly. We can only help you to exclude possible causes in a logical way, one by one. The best way would be to test the pump by connecting it directly to the battery as I suggested previously, bypassing your car's wiring altogether. Then at least we would know the pump works and move on.......

Stephen

[Farvie]

I'm on farvie (grandad) duty tomorrow, so have to be Tuesday to test it out.
It used start first time every time, but that was 6 years ago.

[svenedin]

Don't worry you'll get there and it will start again. Just might take a bit of time to diagnose. I am taking the Morris to France this week so I will be taking a break from the forum from Tuesday but they are many other people on here who will help you.

Stephen

[Farvie]

Have a fantastic time in France, and thank you for your patience with me, really appreciate it.

[svenedin]

You're welcome. All we are trying to do at this stage is trying to find out if the pump works properly when connected to a known reliable power supply. If you don't have crimping tools to make up leads all you need to do is this: leave the top (negative) connection to the top of the pump in place; take a length of suitable wire, strip both ends of insulation, wrap the bare wire round the earth screw in the middle of the pump and tighten the screw down on the wire. Turn on the ignition and then touch the other end of your improvised wire to the positive terminal of the battery. The pump should click away fast. If it doesn't, turn off and now make another improvised wire. Remove the wire from the loom to top of pump and install your improvised wire. Ignition on, earth wire to positive terminal, top of pump wire to negative terminal. If after these tests the pump still doesn't work properly it is probably a simple adjustment issue. Remember the connection instructions apply to a POSITIVE earth car.

Important: sparks and petrol are dangerous. Do not do these tests with the pump connected to the fuel line from the tank

Stephen

[Mervin]

This is not relevant to the problem, but that negative battery terminal connector needs sorting out. Ideally it should be fully onto the battery post, it's only partially located.
Slacken the clamp nut/bolt and gently tap the connector down, possibly pry it open slightly first. I would suggest centralising the battery too, it's too far to the left of the battery tray.
I prefer this arrangement. For some reason the third picture is upside down?

batt neg.jpg (116.12 KiB) Viewed 2850 times

batt pos.jpg (90.51 KiB) Viewed 2850 times

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[geoberni]

I'm a little concerned that references to Positive, Negative and Earth may confuse some people.

All that matters in this case is SUPPLY and EARTH.
The Earth cable looks terrible and may easily have broken strands that are causing the problem.

I'm a little befuddled as to why the Earth cable changes from red to black beside or behind the battery....
But assuming the engine is turning over OK, any wiring defects are going to be limited to the actual Pump circuit.

The ability to use a Multimeter for some very simple checks would soon resolve this in minutes.

[Farvie]

The battery is on like this while I'm testing the pump, once it's all sorted it will be dead center and connected correctly on terminals.

Bernie, the red wire you refer to is one of them kill switches in the car that cuts off all power.
I have a multimeter, what's best way to test it, only ever used it to test fuses

[geoberni]

The battery is on like this while I'm testing the pump, once it's all sorted it will be dead center and connected correctly on terminals.

Bernie, the red wire you refer to is one of them kill switches in the car that cuts off all power.
I have a multimeter, what's best way to test it, only ever used it to test fuses

Kill Switch

Keeping this bit as simple as I can.
If it's a digital meter, then it doesn't matter which way you connect it, it's just that one way around, it will prefix the numbers with a'-' to indicate the polarity. If it's an analogue 'needle' meter, you must get the polarity correct or it'll try to go in the wrong direction.

Connect Battery up properly.
Multimeter
Set to DC Volts.
Connect Red Lead (because you've got Pos Earth) to the Battery Earth post. For example jam the point of the lead into the bare cable end at the clamp.
Make sure the 'Kill Switch' is on
Disconnect the input cable to the Coil to prevent the chance of heating the Coil up.
Turn on the Ign to power the pump.
Touch the Black lead to the Supply Post of the Battery and hopefully it will be 12.0v or more.
Now using the Black lead, sequentially check the reading at the following points:
B - Should be close to the reading just obtained at the Battery, I wouldn't like to see more than about 0.3v lost between Battery post and 'B'.
C - As we are now after the 'workings' of the pump, assuming the pump is not clicking, or else between clicks, we should have very near 0v. We're now checking any resistance fault in the earth lead that's taking voltage which should be across just the pump.
D - Now check at small tag at D, it definitely should be same as reading at C, because electrically we're putting the 2 probes side by side. Just measuring any voltage lost across the thick cable and that Kill Switch.

For a good earth connection, I would really be wanting a reading of 1 or 2 mV (millivolts) at point C and D.

Turn off Ign Sw, remove multimeter and reconnect the Coil wiring.
Report back on the readings.
.

Pump testing.JPG (127.15 KiB) Viewed 2734 times

[Farvie]

Hi Bernie,
I connected battery and pump stated clicking more than it has been, yesterday I cleaned up the black earth's on pump, but did nothing yesterday, but just now it did lol was clicking even without earth to wiper motor connected, but I did the tests you said.
Batter was 11.94
Now as pump was clicking (wasn't fast like in videos I've seen) it's registered 25/7 on both C & D
As I was doing this the pump started going faster, I video it but can't post it.

What size black cable would I need to replace the earth's?

[Farvie]

B was same as battery 11.93

[Farvie]

Just found some decent black wire, ordered some connectors as this lead definitely iffy

Screenshot_20250520_103726_com.android.gallery3d.jpg (167.44 KiB) Viewed 2293 times

[Bill_qaz]

Charge your battery while waiting, it should be above 12v

[Farvie]

Hi Bill,
I've put it on trickle charge

[geoberni]

Hi Bernie,
I connected battery and pump stated clicking more than it has been, yesterday I cleaned up the black earth's on pump, but did nothing yesterday, but just now it did lol was clicking even without earth to wiper motor connected, but I did the tests you said.
Batter was 11.94
Now as pump was clicking (wasn't fast like in videos I've seen) it's registered 25/7 on both C & D
As I was doing this the pump started going faster, I video it but can't post it.

What size black cable would I need to replace the earth's?

Well I don't understand what the 25/7 is, I presume you mean changing between 25 and 27, so my guess is that's a millivolt reading.
That's way high.
Looking at your photo of the cable, it is knackered. Just 1mm² or 0.75mm² is fine.
If you've having to buy some, just 5 Amp rating is sufficient. The Pump takes about 2-3 Amp to operate.
The cable is there to provide a good earth; otherwise you're relying on the earth path being from the Pump main housing, via the case screws to the bottom alloy casing and then via the bolts holding the pump to the battery tray...
The Battery voltage is also very low; I'm surprised it turns over at all.
Anything below 12.0v is less than 50% capacity.
A charged battery is 12.6V or more. A brand new battery should easily hold 13.0V on the shelf.

You can't post video to the message board, you have to put it elsewhere such as youtube and post a link.

[Farvie]

I ran battery low when I just trying to get it going, got it on charge now.

The 25 27 reading was flickering between them numbers. Maybe I did it wrong lol,
Just put fresh fuel in, and sorted a cable out and tinned it ready for the connectors that should come tommorow.
So fingers crossed it pumps and starts up

[Farvie]

New earth lead fitted, battery at 12.5v and still not sucking up fuel, blew down fuel line and it bubbling in tank, sucked up fuel to try help it flow, still not pumping any fuel into the pump, it's not click fast goes like 1 click a second then a tad faster.
Pumps new recon
Fresh fuel
Fuel line not clogged.