Rear bump stop

[Bill_qaz]

I noticed whilst checking the car over that the rear offside bump stop was missing. The plate was still secured under the U bolts but the rubber was completely missing. Is it common for the bonding to fail between the metal and rubber. Of course it could be original, so 63 years old. A replacement from ESM is now fitted, although the new U bolts supplied were too long ( possibly I ordered incorrectly) luckily the originals were reusable, they are fitted with double nuts, is this standard?

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[svenedin]

Hello Bill,

Not sure about the bonding of the rubber on this part specifically but like all rubber they deteriorate over the years. The engine mounts definitely do come away from the metal. I have done this job and used double nuts on the U-bolts. I'd have to look back at my photos but I'm pretty sure there were double nuts there already and horribly difficult they were to shift. Nylocs might be better for future ease of maintenance. I note your drop link rubber doesn't look in great shape.

Stephen

[Bill_qaz]

The double nuts undone easily and are refitted with copper slip to prevent any future issues. I noticed the link rubbers, they look worse in pictures than in reality. but they will be replaced this winter when not being used and shockers refilled.

[svenedin]

I'm just having a coffee break. Yes there were 2 nuts. Only photo I can find but you can see where the 2nd nuts were. U-bolts weren't too long.

Stephen

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[jaekl]

Double nut, one standard thickness and one thinner nut. Because there is rubber in the sandwich, a lock washer would not have been reliable as the rubber took a set as well as limiting the clamping force.

[svenedin]

Double nut, one standard thickness and one thinner nut. Because there is rubber in the sandwich, a lock washer would not have been reliable as the rubber took a set as well as limiting the clamping force.

Perfect explanation! Thank you.

[Bill_qaz]

"Yes there were 2 nuts. Only photo I can find but you can see where the 2nd nuts were. U-bolts weren't too long. "

Answer to the U bolt length, I incorrectly ordered for 7 leaf spring instead of 5 leaf

[philthehill]

Make sure that you have the right nuts!!
Later after market 'U' Bolts had UNF threads.
Self locking (nylock) nuts are an acceptable substitute for the thick/thin plain BSF nuts.
As regards the damper link - I would clean off the crud from around the top nut and soak in penetrating oil ready for the replacing the links. Somewhere in amongst all that crud is a thin split pin and castellated nut..

[Bill_qaz]

Make sure that you have the right nuts!!
Later after market 'U' Bolts had UNF threads.
Self locking (nylock) nuts are an acceptable substitute for the thick/thin plain BSF nuts.
As regards the damper link - I would clean off the crud from around the top nut and soak in penetrating oil ready for the replacing the links. Somewhere in amongst all that crud is a thin split pin and castellated nut..

Thanks Phil, the wrong new U bolts came with nyloc nuts but I've refitted the original U bolts with the original double nuts.
I'm aware the upper link mount is castellated nut and split pin, I will be cleaning it off and soaking prior to installing the new links and damper oil change while off but plan to replace the castellated nut with a nyloc. I'm sure the welding torch will aid the removal of the castellated nut if required
Some of the crud is actually a thick coating of underseal with dirt stuck to it, so hopefully should clean off reasonably easy

[svenedin]

Make sure that you have the right nuts!!
Later after market 'U' Bolts had UNF threads.
Self locking (nylock) nuts are an acceptable substitute for the thick/thin plain BSF nuts.
As regards the damper link - I would clean off the crud from around the top nut and soak in penetrating oil ready for the replacing the links. Somewhere in amongst all that crud is a thin split pin and castellated nut..

Yes and although the split pin may come out quite easily, it is certainly not easy to put back. I fitted Nylock nuts instead. Not because I am lazy but because I just couldn't do the split pins.

Stephen

[SEROWMANMICHAEL]

hope you use axle stands when working under!!

[Bill_qaz]

hope you use axle stands when working under!!

That's Stephens picture looks like a ramp in case the jack comes down. Mine was on a 4 post lift so not a problem.

[svenedin]

hope you use axle stands when working under!!

My photo is from replacing the leaf springs. What you can't see is that the body of the car is on axle stands. There are also ramps under the car should it fall and the axle was also on axle stands but they had been removed because I had finished and took a photo at the end.

Stephen

[Bill_qaz]

New links fitted today, no problem with split pins as PO had used spring washer and no pin Refitted with new nyloc nut and flat washer.
ESM links came with one piece bush, quite tight to push onto pin, plenty of red rubber grease helped,whereas the old ones had two piece. The shockers had good resistance in both directions and fairly equal both sides, so didn't bother with oil.

[svenedin]

Good job. I think you actually had more grot to deal with than I did. I did take the dampers off as they were both leaking and not doing their job any more. It's a shame that just checking the oil level is so tedious.

Stephen

[Bill_qaz]

Stephen, It's is mostly a thick layer of underseal with mud stuck to the suface, so on a picture it looks worse than it is in reality. A bit of spray and wire brushing and the nuts came off relatively easily. Of course it's easier on a 4 post lift than lying under the car.
I don't do the clean and painted look, i know its solid with no corrosion and I keep it mechanically sound. Its never been restored just maintained and used, two previous lady owners had it twenty years and it was maintained by the same garage. It came with a huge file of history back to the 70s.