Better than nothing rust treatment?

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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by svenedin »

I have just finished the 180 degree rotation of the distributor drive spindle. I wouldn't recommend it on an installed engine unless you have patience and good nerves! I found it impossible to get my head in a position to see the orientation of the slot in the drive spindle so the only way was to take a photograph. However, the workshop manual Section AAA4 directs to set the engine at TDC on number 1 cylinder so you can at least refer to the position of the distributor rotor at that setting as a reference point.

It is quite tricky to get the spindle to fully engage in the right orientation and I needed several attempts, all the while feeling like I might loose it or get it stuck in the engine somehow. I used a long rocker cover stud which is just over 3" and too short for safety in my opinion. A long bolt would be much better and have the advantage of the hexagon to aid holding it.

With the spindle in your hand you must identify the large off set and the small offset. This really doesn't show well in a photo but it is fairly obvious looking at it in your hand. If in doubt you can engage the distributor you just removed.

Before re-fitting the distributor housing/sleeve you need to confirm the position of the spindle slot is correct and that it is all the way home. It is possible to fit the spindle in multiple positions that are not correct.


Starting position. This is 180 degrees wrong. Stud threaded into spindle


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Spindle. The large offset is uppermost. This does not show well in a photograph




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Confirming that it is definitely the large offset by fitting the distrbutor

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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by svenedin »

The final position

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All back with the distributor cap leads as they were before the engine was refurbished. Note the ignition is too far retarded at the moment and the final position of the distributor vacuum unit will be more horizontal rotated towards the front of the car.

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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
Andmurph
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by Andmurph »

It’s looking very smart now Stephen. Hopefully you’ll be able to get some miles in the sunshine very soon. Then it’s time for a glass of wine and to start planning next winters project. The front end of Xavier should be good for at least a few years now.
1972 Morris Minor 1000 pickup
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by svenedin »

Andmurph wrote: Tue Apr 08, 2025 12:47 pm It’s looking very smart now Stephen. Hopefully you’ll be able to get some miles in the sunshine very soon. Then it’s time for a glass of wine and to start planning next winters project. The front end of Xavier should be good for at least a few years now.
Thank you very much. I could really do with a glass of wine, or beer or anything really!
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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A bit more on the installation of the distributor drive spindle. There are 9 positions because there are 9 splines on the helical drive gear. Each spline is 40 degrees apart so in fact the distributor cannot be 180 degrees out. It can be 120, 160 degrees out etc. Anyway, when correctly installed the manual says the slot is in the 1 o'clock position. It looks more like 1.30 or 2 o'clock to me. You would know you had missed by 1 spline if the slot was at about 11 o'clock or 4 o'clock or thereabouts.

This article explains it (but some slight differences as it about an MGA). The article also explains why it really should be corrected if it is wrong.

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig103.htm

Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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I had a reply from the engine builder. He didn't admit the distributor drive spindle was in the wrong orientation but he did say that he was "pleased" that I had sorted it out. Presumably because he didn't much fancy doing the job himself if I drove the car to him though to be fair he did say he would do it. Haha. Oh well, I have since learned that it was so common for BMC Goldseal engines to have the distributor drive installed incorrectly that mechanics would routinely check BEFORE installing the engine and had long bolts 5/16" UNF in their toolkits. Lesson learned.

I still haven't sorted out why the bonnet plunger will not "catch" so I have been unable to test drive the car which is a bit of a shame after so much work. It seems the bonnet is sitting too high. I have adjusted the plunger down as far as it will go and have also fiddled with left/right of the plunger and the striker plate. I will have another go tomorrow. I think I need to look at the catch mechanism and just patiently work out what is wrong by a process of elimination.

I have drained the radiator. It's handy that the original radiator has been repaired and now I can attach tubing to the drain tap to drain it into a container rather than make a huge mess by disconnecting the bottom hose. The original radiator drain tap conveniently takes the same size pipe as for the screenwash but due to the small diameter it does drain very slowly. I didn't bother adding antifreeze as I just knew the radiator would be out more than once. With the radiator removed I can investigate the bonnet catch and also sort out the misalignment of the dynamo pulley and the water pump pulley. I need room to get a puller in as dynamo pulleys are usually very tricky to get off. The dynamo pulley is of the new solid type but it does not sit far enough back. I am going to try the original riveted pulley.

Stephen


By removing the front bonnet badge (2BA nuts x3) access is gained to the plunger. This can be moved left/right by loosening 2x bolts or adjusted up/down by loosening the locknut and using a screwdriver to adjust the plunger up/down

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Pulley misalignment. The dynamo cannot go back any further (that tiny gap on the bracket closes up when the bolt is tight). I can only hope that swapping to the original type riveted pulley will make a difference. I think it will be fine with the old pulley

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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by svenedin »

Coffee break time but I think I've found the bonnet closing issue. It appears (compared to Moss diagram) that the bonnet catch sliding plate is back to front and upside down...........

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/bon ... 11--06--01

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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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Bonnet sorted. Sliding plate 180 degrees out (some pattern here?). The end with 3 holes is for the release rod.

Pulley alignment sorted. New solid pulley is too deep. Old one refitted after a lick of paint.


Showing why a cursory glance at rubber hoses is not sufficient (this is a vacuum connector from the distributor).



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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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First drive since December. Out in the sunshine, top-down for a short test drive. Wonderful! My dear old friend lives!

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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by ManyMinors »

Looking fabulous 8) . You must be pleased with that!
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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ManyMinors wrote: Thu Apr 10, 2025 2:35 pm Looking fabulous 8) . You must be pleased with that!
Thank you. Oh I am. Grinning like the Cheshire Cat!
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
les
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by les »

Neat job Stephen, I respect the care you’ve taken over the work.

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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by philipkearney »

Great to see the car out Stephen, you'll be pleased to get out and get a few miles on it after all the hard work. No doubt a number of small jobs and tweaks still to do but it's looking fantastic.
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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philipkearney wrote: Thu Apr 10, 2025 7:24 pm Great to see the car out Stephen, you'll be pleased to get out and get a few miles on it after all the hard work. No doubt a number of small jobs and tweaks still to do but it's looking fantastic.
Thank you. Yes tweaks and minor adjustment needed but hopefully I can just enjoy some nice drives now. I've already noticed I put the steering wheel on one spline out. I'll sort that out tomorrow and then off for a drive and a hike with the dog in the back of the Morris.

I was a bit nervous on my test drive having done so much. I heard some rattles but that was just stuff in the boot so it took everything out. Then far fewer rattles but one persisted. I had visions of a wheel falling off. It was just the folded back hood rattling!

Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by geoberni »

svenedin wrote: Thu Apr 10, 2025 7:53 pm I've already noticed I put the steering wheel on one spline out. I'll sort that out tomorrow......
Much easier than adjusting the tracking... :lol:
Basil the 1955 series II

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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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geoberni wrote: Fri Apr 11, 2025 9:53 am
svenedin wrote: Thu Apr 10, 2025 7:53 pm I've already noticed I put the steering wheel on one spline out. I'll sort that out tomorrow......
Much easier than adjusting the tracking... :lol:
That needs checking too, no joke, but this is simply me replacing the steering wheel without the front wheels being dead straight.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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Here's a joke. I took the car for a sedate 10 mile run out to see a friend from church who also has a Minor and is a very long-term owner. He sat in my car, liked the brake pedal feel but said he thought I'd adjusted the clutch operating rod with too much free play. Agreed and I readjusted this morning.

When I got back I decided to check the oil level but the car was in blazing sun. I topped up and checked the dipstick a few times but the light was so bright and the oil so immaculately clean that I managed to overfill the oil. I immediately realised I'd overdone it and this morning I let oil out of the sump drain to the correct level. I've never done that before. I felt like a complete novice! In future, topping up using an oil jug would be a much better idea because there is at least a reference of how much is going in. I was pouring from a gallon can.

Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by svenedin »

Here's a handy cheap tool for the clutch return spring. I find the spring very strong and difficult to re-attach using pliers. This tool makes the job extremely easy. Apparently also useful for children's trampoline springs.

Stephen

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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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svenedin
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

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Test drive out. About 25 miles. Everything went fine. Slightly disappointing is nothing feels much different at all! So the same. I suppose that's a good thing.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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Re: Better than nothing rust treatment?

Post by Classiccars »

Cracking job and great car.Dont worry something generally goes wrong or comes apart.Something to look forward to.
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