RUST TREATMENT

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BILLYWIZ
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RUST TREATMENT

Post by BILLYWIZ »

I have used in the past Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 which I have found to be fairly good for rust treatment prior to painting. I read recently that Jenolite has been highly recommended. Has anyone had any experience with this product please?
King Kenny
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Re: RUST TREATMENT

Post by King Kenny »

I have used Jenolite many years ago but I prefer the rust converters like Trustan etc.
1969 Traveller in Almond green. Owned since 1979.
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rocco
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Re: RUST TREATMENT

Post by rocco »

I used Jenolite years ago and thought it was magic. This was before I tried those milky rust converter products that turn metal purple/black after a short while.

I am lead to believe that the best stuff is Evapo-Rust and although I've never used it (can't afford it), the videos I've seen do appear to support the claims.

I never feel comfortable spraying primer over the top of the milky stuff but apparently it's OK. I'm in the middle of rubbing down the gearbox tunnel at the moment using a wire brush on a drill. Then I'll paint the milk on (I don't recall the brand name), prime and paint with black Tekaloid paint which takes weeks to cure if not left outside in the warm sunshine but gives a good finish and is rock solid thereafter.
1961 Morris Minor 948
1970 Morris Minor 1098
BILLYWIZ
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Re: RUST TREATMENT

Post by BILLYWIZ »

Thanks for your replies. I will give the Jenolite a go and see what happens.
Bill.
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svenedin
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Re: RUST TREATMENT

Post by svenedin »

rocco wrote: Tue Mar 18, 2025 6:57 am I used Jenolite years ago and thought it was magic. This was before I tried those milky rust converter products that turn metal purple/black after a short while.

I am lead to believe that the best stuff is Evapo-Rust and although I've never used it (can't afford it), the videos I've seen do appear to support the claims.

I never feel comfortable spraying primer over the top of the milky stuff but apparently it's OK. I'm in the middle of rubbing down the gearbox tunnel at the moment using a wire brush on a drill. Then I'll paint the milk on (I don't recall the brand name), prime and paint with black Tekaloid paint which takes weeks to cure if not left outside in the warm sunshine but gives a good finish and is rock solid thereafter.
I have used Evaporust quite a lot over the years for various rusty items including garden tools, brake drums and lot of other stuff. It works well in removing the rust but it is slow. It can take many days to fully de-rust something and the parts need periodic scrubbing to move the process along. It is also very expensive.

Recently I tried Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 on rusty brake drums and back plates. It was very impressive. It can be used hot and the de-rusting is much, much faster with a hot solution. It is also much cheaper than Evaporust. I will use the Hydrate 80 every time now.

The above were only used on items that could be fully submerged in the de-rusting liquid.


Brake drums de-rusted with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80


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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
BILLYWIZ
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Re: RUST TREATMENT

Post by BILLYWIZ »

I have been using Hydrate 80 for a good number of years and found recently that the results were not as good as previous with evidence of rust returning. I will see what results I get with Jenolite.
Bill.
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svenedin
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Re: RUST TREATMENT

Post by svenedin »

BILLYWIZ wrote: Thu Mar 20, 2025 10:14 am I have been using Hydrate 80 for a good number of years and found recently that the results were not as good as previous with evidence of rust returning. I will see what results I get with Jenolite.
Bill.
Yes. The iron is totally bare when the process is complete so it will flash rust in minutes in our damp UK climate if not painted or greased or some other protective layer.

Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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