Better than nothing rust treatment?

[geoberni]

PS: I find the wiring diagram in the workshop manual too small to read in places and also the terminal numbers on switches. Taking a photo with the mobile phone and enlarging it is very helpful. Better than a magnifying glass.

Simple answer to that is download the AKD 530 manual as a pdf, it's available form several online sources.
Then you can zoom in to your heart's content

Thinking about why the ignition warning light will not illuminate when the ignition is tuned on I am thinking that this is because there is no dynamo installed. If there was a dynamo installed then one of the brown/yellow wires at the D terminal would be connected to the dynamo and ultimately to earth via the dynamo body. This is obviously not the case with no dynamo installed. Solution to test ignition warning light would be to connect the larger of the two brown yellow wires at the D terminal (the one that goes to the dynamo) to earth. Or just wait until the engine and dynamo are back in the car!

Correct.
There's a good explanation here; as a Dynamo user, you might be interested in the explanations of what Regulator Faults will bring the lamp on.
https://www.gomog.com/BLAIR/tech/melect ... light.html

[svenedin]

Thanks Berni. I will read that article with interest.

All the electrics now work. Hurray!

I am now doing a second fit. Finessing you could call it. Routing cables so that they are more beautiful to my critical eye. This makes future maintenance easier. That is the real point of it.

I had the soldering iron out to solder some bullet connectors so I also soldered the ends of new control cables (throttle, choke etc) so that they will not fray.

It is such a treat and a pleasure to work in a clean engine bay. A dream come true really. It is also rather nice to be able to sit in the engine bay!

Stephen

[svenedin]

Trial fitting new engine towers etc today. Somewhat irritating that one engine tower bolt is obstructed by the tie bar. Only the front tie bar bush has to come off though and then there is room to wiggle a new engine tower bolt in. Had a terrible fight with a tie bar split pin for no apparent reason. Grit from the grit blasting is not helping and seems to get into every thread. It gives the impression that a nut is cross-threaded or the wrong nut. Tedious day but glad I got it done as there's no way I would want to do this with an engine waiting to go in. Not pleased that I only have 1x serviceable original engine mounting rubber block. The new rubbers from ESM are way too hard despite them saying on their website otherwise........

Some nice Wipac Quadoptic headlights on the way. Goodbye to sealed beams.....

Stephen

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[svenedin]

I just thought I'd share some thoughts on potential sources of damp behind the dashboard. New gloveboxes are expensive for what they are and very easily ruined by getting wet.

My car has had leaks in the following areas over the years, all caused by failed gaskets/seals

1) Wiper bezel gaskets
2) Bonnet hinge gaskets (the short part of the hinge mounted to the scuttle)
3) Windscreen rubbers

and finally the latest one, 4) Washer jet gaskets

They seem so small the wiper jets that you'd hardly consider that much rain could get in. It isn't much but they get neglected for a VERY long time and so the few drips every time the car gets wet can set up rust around the jets on the inside as well as setting up damp behind the dashboard. Also a few drips run down every time the washers are used when the gaskets have disintegrated.

I am going to take the washer jets off, address the small areas of surface rust, replace the jets with new gaskets and renew the 1/8" ID (4mm) green windscreen washer pipe. It must be green even though nobody will ever see it The tubing is fine really and the nylon T-piece in the piping seems immortal (no brittleness or signs of age).

I only noticed this because I replaced the loom behind the dashboard and I probably need to replace the sound deadening as well (it is turning to dust).

Stephen

[svenedin]

Working behind the dashboard today. I took the screen jets out thinking I'd replace them with new black plastic ones from ESM. No, the ESM ones require a bigger panel hole. I'm not drilling holes so instead I made new gaskets from some rubber sheet that I had. Old ones hard and disintegrated. No more leaks. Tubing replaced. Screen washers working. My car would have had screen washers from the factory as it is a late "Deluxe" model. They would have been manual though. Somebody fitted an electric pump later on (not me I might add).

Definitely getting there now. It's been fun but recently a bit much. Every little job isn't a little job and takes so much longer than anticipated. I will be very happy to be on the road again.

Stephen

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[svenedin]

From the body parts list AKD3542 I have found the original black plastic screen wash jet is part number 14A7379. Minispares still sell this jet so why on earth ESM sell jets the wrong size is beyond me!!! Of course many screen wash systems were installed after market and it may be that the jet size that ESM sell is a match for these. It isn't a match for the BMC part.

I believe the factory fitted washer systems or at least the bottles were made by Wingard (who also made the rear view mirror).

Stephen

[svenedin]

Last few things. The wiper rack tube in the engine bay is rusty. A shame because it is pristine behind the dashboard. As it's on show I might paint it silver. It will have to be a paint that copes with grease, alloy wheel paint for instance. Or I might run out of time and it will stay rusty. In any case I have to replace the grommet.

The sound deadening on the inside of the bulkhead is disintegrating. I should have thought of this before the loom went in because now it will be difficult to fit new material around everything. I know the original stuff was held in by rivets and you can get a kit from ESM to replace it but that material from ESM looks very thin and again, now there's lots of stuff coming through the firewall it will be next to impossible to fit that kit. Self adhesive material would be better as that can be cut into pieces to go around stuff. My main concern is IF I use some sound deadening/insulation it must not trap water against the metal and encourage rust where it cannot be seen. The car has not been repainted behind the dashboard and the paint is thin there anyway so there's little protection against corrosion. The question is whether it's worth bothering at all. This car is a tourer and it will always be noisy with only cloth for a roof.

As to the Wolseley brake upgrade I may not have time to do this before the engine is back in and I am getting tired of day after day of work on the car even if most days I only spend a short time on it. I am also a bit reluctant to change too many things at once. I know the current standard drum brakes are good (such as they are) so I think they'll do for the testing of the rebuilt engine. We'll see. I might do the front brakes and the back can wait.

Stephen

[svenedin]

Just about to re-fit the heater. Some time ago I bought some new heater air hose from a Land Rover specialist (Emburton Imperial). This hose is perfect for the job BUT it seems some rodent friends like it too. It's nibbled before I've even installed it!!!!

Stephen

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[svenedin]

Lucas DR3a wiper motor bench tested and ready to go back on the car. I have disassembled, cleaned, replaced carbon brushes, brush tension spring and spring insulators, replaced earth lead to cap. painted (including black wrinkle paint), fresh grease, checked armature end-float. I have used Jenolite silver alloy wheel paint on the lid. This is very tough and highly resistant to grease. The lid was originally plated (possibly nickel plate) but this has worn off so the lid will rust if not painted. I did try lacquer a few years ago but it still rusted. This unit like all Lucas parts, even switches, is date stamped, in this case "12 68" for week 12 1968. Earlier Lucas parts have the month as the first number but I do not know when this changed. If you want to refurbish your own wiper motor you will need BA spanners or sockets and a book. These wiper motors are very expensive to replace so do not fiddle without knowing what you are doing unless you are prepared for a large bill!

Stephen

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[geoberni]

That's a nice restoration job.

Bad news about the hose.
I regularly get the little blighters in the shed during the winter, but I've managed to discourage them from getting into the garage.

[svenedin]

Thank you Berni.

The wipers are strange beasts. As you know, the wiper switch on the dashboard is effectively an earth switch in that it connects/disconnects the path to earth for the wiper motor for normal on/off function. The path to earth for the self-parking being via a separate black earth lead on the wiper motor. What is really odd is that the heater fan motor green wire (the non-earth wire) is connected to a hot terminal of the wiper switch. This is not some oddity of my car, it is the way it is done. It seems a very odd way to do it as there are spare sockets in the green bullet terminals behind the dashboard! I wonder why they did it???

Stephen

[geoberni]

What is really odd is that the heater fan motor green wire (the non-earth wire) is connected to a hot terminal of the wiper switch. This is not some oddity of my car, it is the way it is done. It seems a very odd way to do it as there are spare sockets in the green bullet terminals behind the dashboard! I wonder why they did it???

Stephen

I'm not following that at all....
As you correctly say, the Wiper sw provides an earth, so the 'hot terminal' as you describe it, of the Wiper Sw is after the Wiper Motor.
Electrically, that means when you turn the heater on, you're putting it in series with the wiper motor, so both would get abut 6v each, depending of course on their relative resistance values.....

Your car is late 60s, the heater feed should be coming from the input side of the Instrument Voltage Stabiliser, via a split just before the Oil Pressure switch feed...
The wiper switch being (51) and the connection being Black/Green....

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[svenedin]

I agree. Its makes no sense but that is how it was wired when I took the old loom out. I even took a photograph as I thought it was so odd. It is doubly strange because the heater green wire should join a female bullet connector (or "snap" connector) as the manual calls it yet my heater green wire terminated in a spade terminal. Needless to say, it is incorrect and I have changed the connector on the heater green wire to a bullet and connected it to the correct group of other green wires entering a 4-way female bullet connector behind the speedo. All works as intended. Searching the forum, I am not the only person to have the heater green wire join the wiper switch......

Anyway, for the first time in 35 years of my tenure of the car, the wipers self park! Hurray.

As usual when masking a step forwards, something happened to put things back. A heater air pipe to the screen vents came adrift so now I will have to drop the parcel shelf to put it back on the heater.

Stephen

[geoberni]

I agree. Its makes no sense but that is how it was wired when I took the old loom out. I even took a photograph as I thought it was so odd. It is doubly strange because the heater green wire should join a female bullet connector (or "snap" connector) as the manual calls it yet my heater green wire terminated in a spade terminal.

Did you have strange problems of the heater running slow, or trying to make the wipers operate?

[svenedin]

I agree. Its makes no sense but that is how it was wired when I took the old loom out. I even took a photograph as I thought it was so odd. It is doubly strange because the heater green wire should join a female bullet connector (or "snap" connector) as the manual calls it yet my heater green wire terminated in a spade terminal.

Did you have strange problems of the heater running slow, or trying to make the wipers operate?

No the heater worked absolutely fine all those years but the wiper self-park never worked. When I tried the odd arrangement earlier today (with a new loom and an overhauled wiper motor on which self-park does work) the heater would work OR the wipers but trying the two together they behaved highly erratically and neither worked properly! I assume this barmy wiring was done by the original owner before my time because I certainly didn't do it. It's possible it coincided with the installation of a wash wipe pump because that was done very badly (the washer pump is wonky on the bulkhead but I can't change that really as the screw holes are drilled that way, the washer motor earth wire was just wrapped around a bolt etc).

Stephen

[geoberni]

I agree. Its makes no sense but that is how it was wired when I took the old loom out. I even took a photograph as I thought it was so odd. It is doubly strange because the heater green wire should join a female bullet connector (or "snap" connector) as the manual calls it yet my heater green wire terminated in a spade terminal.

Did you have strange problems of the heater running slow, or trying to make the wipers operate?

No the heater worked absolutely fine all those years but the wiper self-park never worked. When I tried the odd arrangement earlier today (with a new loom and an overhauled wiper motor on which self-park does work) the heater would work OR the wipers but trying the two together they behaved highly erratically and neither worked properly! I assume this barmy wiring was done by the original owner before my time because I certainly didn't do it. It's possible it coincided with the installation of a wash wipe pump because that was down very badly (the wiper motor is wonky on the bulkhead but I can't change that really as the screw holes are drilled that way, the washer motor eater wire was just wrapped around a bolt etc).

Stephen

Gotta love the whims of previous owner....
When I was closely exploring my car after purchase, I found the Wiper Motor (SII so inside the dash) held up by a block of 'seating foam' type material.
One of my first jobs was getting the right bracket and mountings...
They had originally tried to use stick-on cable tie mountings...
I'm guessing the torque of the motor rocking it back and forth detached it from the sticky pads...

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[svenedin]

What a bodge! Still Many Morris owners had little money or did not really know how to get some of the more unusual parts. Lot's of ingenuity and some downright daft bodges.

Stephen

[svenedin]

I've discovered that connecting one of the heater wires to the EARTH side of the wiper switch is correct. Information contained in the supplemental section of the worksop manual on fitting the late heater. I had made the error of connecting the wiper motor wires to the switch incorrectly which made the heater wire terminal of the wiper switch the LIVE side not the earth side.

Stephen

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[svenedin]

All sorted. This confusion arose because I connected the heater green wire to the same terminal of the wiper switch as it was previously connected BUT I had transposed the black wire and the black/green wire at the wiper switch when fitting the loom. This made the terminal the heater wire was connected live rather than earth. The solution was just to transpose the wiper motor black wire and black/green wire at the wiper switch. This is not shown in the wiring diagram in the manual but is mentioned in text only in a supplemental section of the workshop manual on how to fit the late rectangular heater. Since you cannot see which way the fan is rotating I suggest that you try connecting the two heater wires either way round (i,e one is earth the other live and then try the other way round) and choosing whichever gives the best air output. By logic the black wire from the heater would be earth and since the cars were all positive earth this would be the positive side but in fact this did not seem to be the case with my heater and it worked for best air output with the green wire as earth (my car is positive earth). Most Smiths heater motors are permanent magnet and so will reverse direction of the fan if connected reverse polarity. The fan has curved blades so functions best when rotating clockwise. Some heaters may have field coils instead of permanent magnets in which case it will rotate the same way regardless of polarity.

Might seem a lot of fuss about nothing but the heater is hardly wonderful and it makes sense to get the best air output possible. Also I have no intention of messing around behind the dashboard anytime soon!

Stephen


Heater green wire at the wiper switch. The other two wires black wire and black/green wire must be connected the right way round at the switch. The heater green wire is just using the switch as a convenient earth. In some instances (see above) the heater black wire will connect here

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Heater fan showing the "air scoops" which mean that the fan works much better rotating in the correct direction (clockwise)

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[svenedin]

Just been under the car to reattach the speedo cable to gearbox. I noticed the gearbox steady wire is badly frayed and the earth strap nearby looks past its best too. I will have to replace both. I note that Phil recommends re-tapping the gearbox to accept bigger bolts to hold the steady bracket. This is too much just now but if the car is on a post lift at some point it would be straightforward to do.

Stephen

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