Succession Of Minor Gremlins

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Nut17
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Joined: Wed Oct 16, 2024 9:08 am
Location: Havelock North New Zealand
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Succession Of Minor Gremlins

Post by Nut17 »

My first registered October 1963 4 door sedan which has been positively identified as a series one DPM with 8" front brakes and 1098cc engine is finally now legally road worthy, but still providing a few teething problems which can only be expected after being in storage for 35 years. Jobs completed include a full brake overhaul with new wheel cylinders, brake shoes and master cylinder fitted. Have also replaced the front wheel bearings and fitted a telescopic rear suspension conversion. The previous owner has fitted a new radiator core. I do have the distributor out to check mechanical advance and fit new points and condenser. The valve clearances were all too tight at only 09 - 10 thou and I discovered a damaged adjustment screw and nut as part of the resetting process. This has evolved into needing to remove the cylinder head as I needed to undo the 4 long head studs to remove the rocker shaft causing the composite head gasket to delaminate and leak. Pretty opportune as it turned out as although the engine appears to be as new with absolutely no wear in the bores and spotlessly clean pretty much devoid of any carbon on the pistons - valves or combuston chambers. Added bonus is that the exhaust valves have previously been fitted with hardened valve seats to suit unleaded petrol.
There is some corrosion around a few of the water galleries and there is quite a bit of crusty crud blocking some of those important cooling galleries.
1963 4 door sedan 1098cc "Dual Personality"
Owlsman
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Re: Succession Of Minor Gremlins

Post by Owlsman »

Great to have another Moggy from 'down under' on the DP register. You've worked really hard to recommission and improve your car after such a long time effectively in storage.

Regarding the crusty water galleries, I found the use of citric acid very effective in clearing my tubes....so to speak! :D The issue I had was not so much rust within the waterways but a build-up of crud, which prevented water coming out of the drain tap on the block. 48 hours or so with citric acid in the engine block worked a treat and it's been free-running ever since.

This old thread gives a lot more detailed information: viewtopic.php?t=72379
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svenedin
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Re: Succession Of Minor Gremlins

Post by svenedin »

When you have the engine back together it sounds like it would benefit from a very good flush through of the cooling system. You can use citric acid to do this. It is available cheaply in bulk crystal form (for de-scaling kettles, washing machines etc). Dissolve the crystals in hot water and add to the coolant in the radiator. Then run the engine up to temperature and keep running the engine for 20 minutes or so. The de-scaling action is much faster when the acid is hot and the water pump will be circulating the coolant. Then drain the cooling system including removing the engine block drain plug which is at the back on the right hand side when standing in front of the car. Often the block drain is blocked and may require poking around with a coat hanger. Then attach a garden hosepipe to the heater tap on the cylinder head and rinse everything out very thoroughly. Also rinse out the radiator. Repeat this process if you wish. When clean refill with water and antifreeze (Bluecol).

Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
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