Oil filter spin on conversion

[Stevie R]

Hi everyone

Has anyone done an oil filter conversion? I’m about to embark on tackling this just wondering if there are any tips or advice for a smooth and successful transition?
Some people have said they have struggled getting a seal when re connecting the oil feed pipe so any advice would be appreciated

[les]

If you clean the gasket faces to ensure they are oil tight, then, regarding the oil pipe, make sure the mating parts are in alignment with each other, and the pipe itself meets the filter head at the same angle. You can tell when you’ve got it right, as the union will screw on by hand before needing a spanner.

[simmitc]

There are two options: replace the filter head or fit a conversion to the existing head. I have always done the latter and found it a simple ten minute job that is a perfectly satisfactory solution that has worked well for over 100K miles. No need to loosen any connections, just take off the old canister, screw on the converter and fit the new filter.

[Stevie R]

That’s great I watched a video of a conversion that replaced the whole unit but if I can just do a ‘bolt on’ to the filter housing happy days,
Anyone recommend where to purchase the required parts from?

[philthehill]

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/oil ... on-gfk1001

I bit pricy for me!
I would rather fit the factory spin on filter head and associated pipe.
As regards the metal pipe you may find that the later factory fitted metal pipe fitted in conjunction with the spin on filter head is a better fit and may not require any fettling.
If you are going to fit a spin on filter head the heavyweight filter head in the photo below is the better one and as fitted to MG Midgets and MG Metros.
There have been instances of the later BL lightweight filter head breaking off with catastrophic loss of oil pressure.

filter head 3.JPG (928.74 KiB) Viewed 1224 times

[svenedin]

There are two options: replace the filter head or fit a conversion to the existing head. I have always done the latter and found it a simple ten minute job that is a perfectly satisfactory solution that has worked well for over 100K miles. No need to loosen any connections, just take off the old canister, screw on the converter and fit the new filter.

Thank you Simon. I did not know there was a conversion of the existing head available.

Stephen

[simmitc]

I use it so that I can retain the blocked filter warning light switch in the original head. I hasten to add that I have always changed the oil and filter as recommended and have never needed the light, but it's a backup (if it works!)

[svenedin]

I use it so that I can retain the blocked filter warning light switch in the original head. I hasten to add that I have always changed the oil and filter as recommended and have never needed the light, but it's a backup (if it works!)

Yes I would want to retain that too.

Stephen

[svenedin]

This is a common modification. I wonder why people do it though?

Is it just because a spin on filter is quicker and far less messy to change or is there a belief that a spin on filter offers superior oil filtration? I am still using a Purolator that takes replaceable filter cartridges (which are cheap). My modern high performance Audi uses a very similar replaceable filter cartridge (and does not use the spin-on type).

So is it all about convenience or something I am missing?

Stephen

[myoldjalopy]

No other reason than convenience, I think.

[svenedin]

No other reason than convenience, I think.

That's what I thought. Perhaps also less likely to leak as there is only the seal at the top with a spin-on whereas the Purolator type has a seal at the bottom as well. Also some people find the original oil filter a challenge to assemble correctly so a spin-on is much simpler.

The more modern paper cartridges for the Purolator are surely just as good at oil filtration as a spin-on? The early felt elements obviously were not so good at oil filtration.

Stephen