Lights

[Swampy]

Afternoon all when fitting spot lights is it possible to wire them so that they work with the mainbeam or better to wire separately with a switch on the dash. It's a 67 model. Regards swampy

[Steve Phillips]

Either is possible,

If you want them to work with your main beams use a suitable relay to handle the power of your spot lights, and take a trace wire from your main beam circuit to trigger the relay, hey presto two working together,

Remember to fuse the power to the relay - spot lights as close to the battery or power source you use for safety,

If you want them independent, again you can use a suitable relay so you won’t overload the switch you use, and again a fuse..

Hope that helps

Steve

[Swampy]

Ok thank you All for your help. Regards swampy

[geoberni]

It's both possible and legal, whether it's advisable is another question.
UK Lighting Regs are basically that Lamps must be in pairs and Full beam must not be closer to the edges of the vehicle than the Dip Beam...
Other countries have different rules, I know Germany used to have a rule that only 4 lamps could be on at one time...


You'd need to use relays as the existing switch and wiring wouldn't be happy.
If you have a headlamp Flash of some sort, it's not advisable to have 4 'Full Beam' flashing at other drivers ...

[Bill_qaz]

I have recently fitted spots, used a switch that has momemtary and on and off, via two relays.
Momentary position flashes spots providing ignition is on.As no headlamp flash on mine, so use spots. The on potion puts the spots on but only if on main beam, so if on and you dip headlights they go off. Also a warning light to show when spots on

[Swampy]

Ok thanks for that Bill looks like I've got a few options to look at. Regards swampy

[MikeNash]

Swampy,

While I defer to m'Learned Friends regarding relays, it is possible to drive your spotlights directly off your current switches, at least it is on my 1963 Trav which uses the "pull" type switches. My Trav has the bullet type connectors with a joint for the headlamps inboard either side of the engine, and using "double-barrelled" bullet connectors I was able to tap off to the spots on each side using the feed to the main beams. Thus when I pressed the floor switch to give main beam, the spots came on as well. The rationale for this set-up was that if I wanted the main beams on then I was asking for all the forward and distant illumination I could get and wiring them together provided it. I ran this set-up for some years without trouble.

I also had a separate switch for 2 fog lamps as well, and I could run them all the 6 lights off my dynamo above 40 mph (in top gear). All on, that's a total of some 300 watts of light giving far better lights than the wife's Qashqai or the Peugeots she's had.

However, I urge you to consider fitting an ammeter, especially if you've a dynamo rather than an alternator so you can see when necessary you need to reduce wattage to balance the load. Altogether, you can try it all out by simple adaptation of your current wiring, but these days I'd follow m'Learned Friends' opinions regarding relays. Extra fuses would be a wise and prudent addition too.

Regards from MikeN.

[Bill_qaz]

I would be more worried about putting an additional 110w load on to existing 60 year old wiring than the simplicity of plugging into existing main beam connector.
I preferred new fused supply to relays and low relay switching load on existing main beam wiring but it's personal choice of what you feel comfy with. Power consumption was not a concern as mine runs an alternator.

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[oliver90owner]

I agree with Bill. That load on a dynamo is excessive. Although the ammeter might show whether the battery is being discharged a voltmeter would be good, as well.

14.4V is required to charge the battery fully - and modern lead/acid batteries do not fare well if not kept fully charged.

[Swampy]

Morning Mike thanks for your reply something else i will look at. I'll give it a go and see what happens. Regards swampy

[olonas]

I have two fog/spotlights fitted. Positive earth and dynamo. I added a direct fused (3A) feed from the battery neg. to a relay then the lights. The relay is switched by a pull "F" switch fed from the non ignition fuse.
I realise this will be totally non road legal, but the lights are fitted with polarity free H3 l.e.d.s.. I checked their current draw and it's less than 1 Amp. combined.

[Swampy]

Ok thanks for your reply more choice now . Regards swampy

[MikeNash]

Olanas,
Yours' is the path I'll follow next time I fit them and, like you, use LEDs. Can you give the firm who supplied your LEDs and (if you're satisfied with them) their part number? I'd much prefer a recommendation from a Minor satisfied customer than any other recommendation.
MikeN.

[Andmurph]

I can recommend www.classiccarleds.co.uk for quality LEDs. I don’t have spot lamps on the pickup but have used these guys to supply LEDs for every other lamp. Duncan, the owner is fantastically helpful if you have any questions.
I have used their LEDs for years on Landrover, MG Midget and my Volvo.
I had one indicator LED that was DoA and I received a replacement next day.