Hi All.
How do I free the rear cylinder from the backplate/hub? It’s some years since I owned my last Morris and I can’t remember how it clears the hub.
I’ve removed the bleed nipple assembly.
Probably a job I should have left for the moment while I’ve got such restricted movement!
Thanks for your help.
Alan
Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
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Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
You will find it easier if you pull out the half-shaft to give a bit more clearance.
Uncouple the handbrake cable, remove the feed pipe, the bleed nipple adapter union and the rubber cover from the rear of the backplate/cylinder.
Push the cylinder down to the bottom of the slot and the cylinder should be able to be removed by tilting and slipping the cylinder through the backplate slot.
Uncouple the handbrake cable, remove the feed pipe, the bleed nipple adapter union and the rubber cover from the rear of the backplate/cylinder.
Push the cylinder down to the bottom of the slot and the cylinder should be able to be removed by tilting and slipping the cylinder through the backplate slot.
Re: Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
Thanks Phil.
I’d forgotten how tight these are! Thankfully, the front wheel cylinders don’t need to come off.
Alan
I’d forgotten how tight these are! Thankfully, the front wheel cylinders don’t need to come off.
Alan
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
It is possible to remove the cylinder without releasing the half-shaft, but it often takes a lot of wiggling around and a little judicious persuasion with a suitable hammer!
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Re: Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
If you have to use a hammer you have failed. The alloy body of the cylinder should not be subject to impact.
- geoberni
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Re: Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
The half shaft only needs to be moved out about 1/2", job done in 30 seconds.
So long as the car is on a level surface, the height of it being jacked up should keep all the oil in the axle.
My drive slopes to the side about 10 degrees, when I did my brakes I forgot this and ended up with oil running out the lower side....

So long as the car is on a level surface, the height of it being jacked up should keep all the oil in the axle.
My drive slopes to the side about 10 degrees, when I did my brakes I forgot this and ended up with oil running out the lower side....


Basil the 1955 series II


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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
The sealing of the half-shaft gasket when pulling out the half-shaft by 1/2" and pushing it back in is helped if the gasket is greased before fitting.
A disturbed dry gasket once pulled apart can leak.
Greasing the gasket helps keep it supple over time and allows for the dismantling and assembly several times without problem.
A disturbed dry gasket once pulled apart can leak.
Greasing the gasket helps keep it supple over time and allows for the dismantling and assembly several times without problem.
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
I did say 'judicious' use of a hammer, I wasn't suggesting you should thump it mercilessly. Last time I replaced rear wheel cylinders, a couple of years ago, one came out and in with merely wiggling, the other needed some gentle persuasion. All good since.philthehill wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2024 9:29 am If you have to use a hammer you have failed. The alloy body of the cylinder should not be subject to impact.
Re: Rear brake cylinder. Being dumb
Funnily enough the new cylinder slotted in fine. Clearly a slight casting variation vs the old one.