wheel studs

[Gunner]

Hi all. The previous owner of my Moggy has replaced the standard wheels with JB Wheels minilites. On tightening up the nut, I have stripped the thread within the nut - not the stud - even though I used a short handled wrench and didn't overdo the force applied IMO. On investigation, it appears that the stud protruding through the wheel doesn't have much thread for the nut - probably okay for a pressed steel standard rim but not a slab of billet aluminium. Has anyone replaced the studs with longer ones and if so from where - ESM don't stock any. Although JB Wheels does stock a range of studs, they are unsure whether they are compatible with the minor hub - they say that they are mini compliant but have never sold them specifically for a minor. Are the minor and mini studs the same with respect splines and thread size (I assume the minor studs are 3/8 BSF).

Appreciate any advice.

[Steve Phillips]

Hi

Yes 3/8 UNF is correct,

Not sure what I have on the shelf but I will either have or can get std length or +15mm +20mm +25mm +45mm studs if you need,

In a perfect world the length of the thread that’s in the wheel nut is 1.5 times the diameter of the stud used so as 3/8” is a little under 10mm (for easy numbers) you need 15mm of usable thread sticking through your alloy wheels for max strength, if you have more it won’t hurt but doesn’t add anything to the strength between the stud and the nut,

I would guess you would only need +15mm but you will have to fit the wheel and measure it,

And yes Mini (real ones not the modern rubbish) is the same as Minor, Midget / sprite

steve

[Gunner]

Hi Steve

the more thread contact between nut and bolt/stud the better from a strip resistance perspective. Looking like I have 10mm at best so no wonder the thread in the alloy nuts have stripped.

The studs that are fitted have [approx] 8mm of spline, 5mm shoulder for the drum thickness and then 20mm of thread. As you suggest, +15mm in thread length should give me a decent amount of contact but as there is a difference between front and back stud length I think I'd go with +20mm of thread. Are the studs you can provide the same in respect of spline and shoulder?

And finally, where are you based and how could I order a full set of 16 studs.

thanks
Grahame

[Steve Phillips]

If your wheel nuts are closed ended remember that if the studs are too long they will bottom out in the nuts before they tighten up on the wheel,

yes the studs will be the same diameter as OE studs, the shoulder normally gets longer as the studs get longer so again you dont want too much extra length as the plain shank can interfer with tightening up,

I'm in Sevenoaks in kent, if you want to proceed please PM me,

Steve

[Gunner]

hi Steve

struggling to get PM to send but do want to go ahead with +20mm studs as the wheels will take the extra shoulder

Grahame

[simmitc]

When you send a PM, it stays in your outbox until the recipient reads it, then moves to sent box.

[Gunner]

Thanks simmitc - call me a Luddite but I prefer pen and paper or at most emails to this messenger stuff.

Anyhow, following Steve’s qualified advice, I ordered some +20mm studs from the wheel supplier. Although slightly differing in the number of splines they pulled into the hubs perfectly (+20 is the longest that can be fitted without pulling the hub) and give me sufficient contact between stud and nut to feel safe in my mind that the nuts are not going to strip. Thanks Steve.

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[Steve Phillips]

You're very welcome.

I have too many vehicles come through my workshop with dangerous issues and stripped and missing wheel studs / nuts is a very common one.

Good that you spotted the problem and I'm only too pleased to help.

Steve

[Gunner]

One problem I have just noted today is that the above post is correct for the front hubs but not for the rears. And, the rear is a little bit more complicated / time consuming.

Whereas the front was a simple knock the original studs out and "manoeuvre" the new studs into position before pulling home, the rear will only accept the standard studs unless, in the case of +20mm, you remove the brake cylinder and then use the cylinder opening in the back plate to access the stud holes on the hub. In the case of +20mm studs, there was some minor scoring of the thread on the stud due to the angle of approach but nut not enough to cause an issue - chased with a die nut to clean up. Remedy is either accept the small scratch to the thread as stated above or file / grind a small bit of one side of the stud shoulder away to give clearer access to the stud hole through the cylinder opening thereby reducing the angle of approach.

This, and the actions in the previous post, has resulted in sufficient stud to nut thread contact to ensure that I can apply sufficient force to the wheel nut on the alloy (minilite) wheels.

Happy days!

[philthehill]

I would not even consider removing the wheel cylinder to allow the fitment of longer studs.
To fit longer studs in the rear hub it is best to remove the hub and then knock out the old studs and then press in the new longer studs.
Much easier than removing the wheel cylinder and then having to bleed the brakes.
I have fitted longer studs to my rear hubs to allow for the fitment of 1/4" & 3/8" spacers (dependent upon wheels fitted). The longer studs extend for 33mm from the drum outer face. The wheels used are 7J Revolution and 7J Minilite copies.