it's MOT time again, and I'm struggling to get a decent handbrake balance, as I do most years, so need a bit of help as it's proving to be very difficult this year.
My local (mainstream independent) garages will no longer work on "classic" cars so I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations in the Bristol/Bath area for a sympathetic/knowledgable Minor/classics garage, now C Ware's is no longer with us?
I can't help with your question, and it might well be their collective policy, but any garage which has difficulty working on such a simple mechanism operating drum brakes would never get my business for anything.
Presumably you have tried adjusting the shoes equally and made sure the cables are free to move etc.?
I once had an imbalance issue with the front brakes. One side would not release fully, even with the adjuster fully anticlockwise.
It was aftermarket shoes. I had to grind/file a very small amount off the ends where they located in the adjusters and wheel cylinder.
With the rear brakes I would suspect any imbalance through normal braking is more difficult to detect.
olonas wrote: ↑Sat May 25, 2024 10:25 am
but any garage which has difficulty working on such a simple mechanism operating drum brakes would never get my business for anything.
But where's the OBDII port !
I wonder what happened to all the people who worked for Charles Ware, I mean, they must have got jobs somewhere and would have the knowledge and experience.
I’m in the RAC, they keep texting me saying they come out and service members cars, if your a member see if they will help.
——- or failing that slacken the handbrake cables right off, adjust the rear brake shoes so they just bind on the drums, then back off one click of the adjuster. You can then adjust each cable until you feel the shoes start to grip, then back off slightly.
I’ve just done mine , —— You need to raise both wheels from the ground.
Thanks, Les. Most helpful.I have an issue in that the cam mask start to flip and jam before the brake shoes starts to lock against the drum, and I've just discovered that the handbrake mechanism does not come off freely on the same side when the handbrake lever is released. I have to physically push it off at the back of the drum to stop the brake binding.
I assume this will be either a sticky handbrake cable or the mechanism in the brake slave cylinder is sticking? I'll look into it some more over the next couple of day.
olonas wrote: ↑Sat May 25, 2024 10:25 am
but any garage which has difficulty working on such a simple mechanism operating drum brakes would never get my business for anything.
But where's the OBDII port !
I wonder what happened to all the people who worked for Charles Ware, I mean, they must have got jobs somewhere and would have the knowledge and experience.
Good idea, I've just found one that advertises as also being a classic car mechanic so here's hoping. many thanks
Myrtles Man wrote: ↑Sat May 25, 2024 5:41 pm
Might it be worth checking out a couple of your local mobile mechanics to see how they react? It won't cost anything and you may just strike lucky.
"I assume this will be either a sticky handbrake cable or the mechanism in the brake slave cylinder is sticking? I'll look into it some more over the next couple of day."
That did bring back a memory of a past M.o.T. where one of the rear wheels was detected as being quite hot and not turning freely. It wasn't considered enough for a fail, but I had to replce the offending side's wheel cylinder. There was an issue with the lever incorprated in the cylinder and the shoes not releasing fully.
I think that's exactly where I am, many thanks for your thoughts. Much appreciated.
olonas wrote: ↑Sun May 26, 2024 11:26 am
That did bring back a memory of a past M.o.T. where one of the rear wheels was detected as being quite hot and not turning freely. It wasn't considered enough for a fail, but I had to replce the offending side's wheel cylinder. There was an issue with the lever incorprated in the cylinder and the shoes not releasing fully.
