Oil pressure gauge fitting

[DCMVan70]

Hi All

I have searched the archive, but don’t quite find how to solve my problem!
Any ideas what I need to add a pressure gauge here?
I have a kit from ESM, my old pressure switch seems to have a straight thread. The T piece screwed in in the photo has a tapered thread but seems to fit very well. Once I have the new T piece in, there is no room underneath (tapered thread) or on the side (straight thread) for either the capillary pipe (tapered thread) the old pressure switch.
Any ideas what fixture I need?

This is an A+ 1275 engine, so I am looking at other places as not standard, but no luck yet!

Regards
David

IMG_6735.jpeg (2.56 MiB) Viewed 3401 times

[philthehill]

Fit the oil pressure switch remotely.
That is what I have done on my Minor fitted with the 'A' Plus engine.
Below - the original arrangement which was far too crowded:-

Gauge feed 1.JPG (1.37 MiB) Viewed 3395 times

Below - the remote feed attachment at the block:-

Gauge feed 2.JPG (1.33 MiB) Viewed 3395 times

Below - you can see how tight everything is with the original switch/adapter under the oil filter attachment block bulge:-

Gauge feed 3.JPG (1.32 MiB) Viewed 3394 times

Below - the oil pressure switch end of the remote pipe before fitting the two pole switch:-

Gauge feed 4.JPG (1.27 MiB) Viewed 3393 times

I used a high pressure oil pressure switch which requires a earth return as well as a power feed.
The remote pipe comes with a blanking plug which was used to blank the bottom outlet of the block adapter.
This is the remote adapter I have used:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273774453659 ... R6TxxNjgYg
You can take a oil pressure gauge feed off one of the front oil gallery plugs but by the time you have removed the gallery plug and made up an adapter it is much easier to buy and fit the remote listed in the link above.

[DCMVan70]

Hi Phil

As always a really good solution.
I did manage to get it in the space using 2 of the ESM supplied T pieces (the first one they sent was missing a thread in one of the holes, they were really good in sending a replacement. I tapped the unthreaded hole and plugged it with a bolt and o ring. I then added the second t piece to the side of the first to give me enough room - it works (and my oil pressure is not to bad!!).

However, it is really cramped and I really don’t like plastic pipe.
I think I will change it to something like you have - may I ask where you got the braided pipe?

Cheers
David

IMG_6739.jpeg (283.57 KiB) Viewed 3376 times

[philthehill]

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... o%20search
I ditched the plastic pipe because it always looked as if it was about to fail.

[Peted7202]

Here's mine

[philthehill]

But that is not a 1275cc 'A' Plus or Marina engine.
The standard 1098cc/948cc oil pressure switch location has much better access than the 1275cc 'A' Plus or Marina engine (see photo above)
Using the special banjo adapter bolt for the pipe union is a very good idea.

[butterboy]

On my 1098 Minor I just unscrewed the oil pressure switch.Screwed in the adapter .Screwed the oil pressure switch onto the side of the adapter.Then screwed the sender on to the end of the adapter. Bit of a tight fit but all works.

[olonas]

oil press tee.jpg (88.51 KiB) Viewed 2125 times

The arrangement for a 1098cc does look to be much more user friendly.
I prefer a "mechanical" gauge" connected using copper pipe. I have a Smiths gauge (the real thing) and fitted it years ago.
I agree with Phil about using plastic pipe. There is no way I would trust it or the way it's connected using little brass olives to form some kind of compression fitting. No doubt many gauges are connected like that, but at 60 p.s.i.? If it were compressed air at that pressure and the connection or pipe failed, no great drama. Engine oil - no way!

[Bill_qaz]

The original post was 2023, I imagine it's sorted by now

[olonas]

In spite of that, the information can still be useful for anyone in a similar position in 2024.

[Bill_qaz]

Is also available if you use search