Swage line removal(pictures now added)
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- Minor Fan
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Swage line removal(pictures now added)
I want to remove the swage line(rear Quarter and door) from my minor.Would it be better to weld a plate behind swage line then grind of and fill or fill swage line with fibre glass then grind off and then smooth. I have full roll cage and full chassis & V8 so you know!!!
Last edited by motherofgod on Sat Jan 14, 2006 11:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
RE: Swage line removal
Maybe you could take a measured amount of metal out, flatten down and butt weld, grind flush and then level with stopper.
RE: Swage line removal
The trouble with removing the swaged moulding is that you are also removing the main strength of the door skins and rear quarters. Butt welding will not add/ replace the strength you are cutting out, so you should really weld a swaged plate on the inside of the panel work. I would suggest atleast 2" of steel either side of the removed section, with a swaged/joggled center section which will bring the new panel flush with the outside edge. You should plug weld,or spot weld the plate in place first to put the shape back into the door and quarter this will also minimise the amount of distortion when you then seam weld the new swaged section to the cut edges of the original moulding. Once the welds are ground down ( don't get the steel too hot when grinding,i.e blue) or this will only add to the distortion, a thin skim of filler should see the job done. The benefit of a larger repair is less distortion and a much stronger repair which will lessen the chances of splits or popping of welds as the door flexes, especially when their slammed shut.



RE: Swage line removal
He knows, you know - trained and everything... 
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RE: Swage line removal
I stand corrected, an additional internal metal plate makes perfect sense.
RE: Swage line removal
I wasn't getting at you, just trying to say that motherofgod could take the advice without any pinches of salt. Jonathon, from memory, is a trained and experienced body man (phnaar) 

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Re: RE: Swage line removal
[quote=" from memory, is a trained and experienced body man (phnaar)
[/quote]
so why is he asking the question?

so why is he asking the question?
RE: Re: RE: Swage line removal
He wasn't, motherofgod was... 
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a
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- Minor Friendly
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RE: Re: RE: Swage line removal
Could you reverse the swage? by putting it through the swage maqchine the other way. That or you could cut down the middle of it and then shrink the metal and weld up the seem you have just made, Then when you grind the weld off everything should be ok, Just put a smear of seem sealant over it to stop any stuff leaking in.
BIRMINGHAM, got a two door moggy 1098cc Check out my pictures at http://www.matmice.com/home/morrisminor
[img]http://www.matmice.com/home/morrisminor/images/rns.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.matmice.com/home/morrisminor/images/rns.jpg[/img]
Swage line
The trouble with removing the swage /moulding on the minor is that you are removing the main strength of the door. You should try and replace this strength in the way I described in my previous posting.
You would not be able to reverse the swage unless you first removed the door skin, this process would seriously weaken the steel anyway. You could cut flatten and weld but again you are weakening the joint, and increasing the possibility of panel distortion.

You would not be able to reverse the swage unless you first removed the door skin, this process would seriously weaken the steel anyway. You could cut flatten and weld but again you are weakening the joint, and increasing the possibility of panel distortion.


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RE: Swage line
yes very true, Just out of intrest why do you want to remove the swage line anyway?
BIRMINGHAM, got a two door moggy 1098cc Check out my pictures at http://www.matmice.com/home/morrisminor
[img]http://www.matmice.com/home/morrisminor/images/rns.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.matmice.com/home/morrisminor/images/rns.jpg[/img]
RE: Swage line
Anyone else want to ask that? 

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RE: Swage line
If you have seen a door without it's swage line or handle it looks lovely. So I thought the body would too! Also when I did the door I ground off small sections(6''-7'') then welded a plate behind this stopped any destortion and kept strenght.then pugged it! It never cracked or fell apart......so you know. Access was gained via a lock in the quarter light window