Servicing the distributor

[radioactiveman]

Be gentle...

I've noticed many service kits come with the gubbins that go inside the distributor (and often the cap itself). So this seems like something I should probably 'service' at some point...

I was hoping it was just a case of taking everything out and replacing it like for like (and adjusting the gap). However, it seems like it might not be that simple. I've read as many posts as I can, but I feel I'm lost in a world to 'top dead center' and 'dwell angles'.

Is there a simple version of it all where I don't have to worry about adjusting my timing (after my battle to adjust my mixture it seems like it'll be an entire world of pain for me being barely in the foothills of my learning curve )?

Thanks in advance

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

Keeping it clean inside and outside is the main thing. Wipe the cap clean in and out. Central carbon brush should be springy. Don’t ever need to replace condenser unless it goes faulty (keep spare in the car). CB points to be replaced whenever they cannot be cleaned up any longer and are too pitted, usually around 6,000 miles but often longer. Electrical connections to be kept clean and tight. Oil the distributor sparingly but often. Never ever done anything with a dwell meter in my life and no intention to start now; just set points gap to .015” (on heel of cam).
The owners book would give a better description how to look after it with illustrations. If you don’t have one best to acquire one because they are essential reading.

[myoldjalopy]

Yes, a manual will have diagrams to help. In additions to 'JJ's reply, the cam which the rotor arm fits on should have a thin smearing of grease on its sides to help lube the heel of the points, and the tip of the rotor arm should be made clean and bright. I did this job only the other day and just checked the cap was OK, cleaned the rotor arm tip, cleaned up the points and re-set the gap, greased the rotor cam, put some oil in the head of the cam and down into the dissy itself through the plate that holds the points, condensor etc. Easier to understand if you have the diagram to illustrate this servicing operation.
I also recommend getting points, rotor arm and condensor from the Distributor Doctor, rather than a service kit. Many have had problems with poor quality condensors, plugs and rotors, including myself, but no problems at all in the last 10 years or so of using his stuff. I find his points go on much longer than 3000 miles.

[mogbob]

Getting at the distributor at the back / base of the engine on a Morris Minor to check over / clean things is a pain as regards access.

A lot of people find it easier to remove the whole thing.
Before you panic , just take elementary precautions.
1. Make sure that the HT leads are numbered 1 to 4 ( a piece of masking tape & biro, Tipp-Ex correction fluid or permanent cable markers )
No 1 cylinder is at the front of the block / radiator end. This ensures your " firing order " remains undisturbed when you re-install the distributor.
2. Remove the distributor cap and HT leads including the King lead that goes to the coil.
3.Note the position of the Rotor arm , clock face analogy and draw a diagram for refence later.
4.At the base of the distributor ( see Haynes Manual Fig 4.2 ) you will find item 1 Clamping plate.
The single horizontal bolt , holds the distributor in it's correct position ( as the car is running OK ) DO NOT DISTURB IT.
There are two relatively small bolts , set at 180 degrees apart where the clamp straddles the hole in the engine block.
Undo these two bolts taking care not to drop them under the car or even worse , into the engine !
5. Withdraw the whole distributor. It requires a little wiggle but it's a straight pull. ( when you replace , a clean and then a little engine oil
smeared on the shaft will ensure it slides back easily.
6.Observe the Driving dog item 19 attached to the base of the shaft. Although at first glance the tongue looks to be central , it is in fact
offset deliberately. This ensures the tongue engages in a slot within the engine. In can only engage in two positions which are180 degrees apart.
If the shaft is moved about , it is possible for it to go back " 180 degrees out " i.e the engine will never start in this position !!
THAT'S why you carefully noted the rotor arm's position in Step 3.
When reinstalling , set the rotor arm to the correct position , slide the shaft in. You might " nail it " first time but just gently wiggle the rotor
arm to make sure it has engaged and at the same time feel that the shaft is fully " home ". Refit the short bolts to secure. Refit the cap and
HT leads. Re connect Battery terminals.

There are several YouTube videos on Lucas distributors to familiarise yourself with the basics. They were fitted to numerous British Classic
cars back in the day.
Shout if anything needs further information. Help is always at hand.
Bob

[myoldjalopy]

Yes, some do like to remove the dizzy to service it but its not necessary. Admittedly, leaning over the wing to carry out the work can leave you with a bit of a stiff back but if you are careful it is easy to avoid this.
If you do go down the route of removing the dizzy, don't turn the engine over in any way whilst the dizzy is out so you can just slide/wiggle the dizzy back into its correct position, as Bob described.

[radioactiveman]

Getting at the distributor at the back / base of the engine on a Morris Minor to check over / clean things is a pain as regards access.

A lot of people find it easier to remove the whole thing.
Before you panic , just take elementary precautions.
1. Make sure that the HT leads are numbered 1 to 4 ( a piece of masking tape & biro, Tipp-Ex correction fluid or permanent cable markers )
No 1 cylinder is at the front of the block / radiator end. This ensures your " firing order " remains undisturbed when you re-install the distributor.
2. Remove the distributor cap and HT leads including the King lead that goes to the coil.
3.Note the position of the Rotor arm , clock face analogy and draw a diagram for refence later.
4.At the base of the distributor ( see Haynes Manual Fig 4.2 ) you will find item 1 Clamping plate.
The single horizontal bolt , holds the distributor in it's correct position ( as the car is running OK ) DO NOT DISTURB IT.
There are two relatively small bolts , set at 180 degrees apart where the clamp straddles the hole in the engine block.
Undo these two bolts taking care not to drop them under the car or even worse , into the engine !
5. Withdraw the whole distributor. It requires a little wiggle but it's a straight pull. ( when you replace , a clean and then a little engine oil
smeared on the shaft will ensure it slides back easily.
6.Observe the Driving dog item 19 attached to the base of the shaft. Although at first glance the tongue looks to be central , it is in fact
offset deliberately. This ensures the tongue engages in a slot within the engine. In can only engage in two positions which are180 degrees apart.
If the shaft is moved about , it is possible for it to go back " 180 degrees out " i.e the engine will never start in this position !!
THAT'S why you carefully noted the rotor arm's position in Step 3.
When reinstalling , set the rotor arm to the correct position , slide the shaft in. You might " nail it " first time but just gently wiggle the rotor
arm to make sure it has engaged and at the same time feel that the shaft is fully " home ". Refit the short bolts to secure. Refit the cap and
HT leads. Re connect Battery terminals.

There are several YouTube videos on Lucas distributors to familiarise yourself with the basics. They were fitted to numerous British Classic
cars back in the day.
Shout if anything needs further information. Help is always at hand.
Bob

Thanks, this is really useful! It makes the diagrams in the workshop manual make much more sense.

It sounds like the biggest danger is getting the distributor on upside down, which I’m confident I can avoid following those steps

[radioactiveman]

Yes, some do like to remove the dizzy to service it but its not necessary. Admittedly, leaning over the wing to carry out the work can leave you with a bit of a stiff back but if you are careful it is easy to avoid this.
If you do go down the route of removing the dizzy, don't turn the engine over in any way whilst the dizzy is out so you can just slide/wiggle the dizzy back into its correct position, as Bob described.

That’s good to know, maybe I can avoid removing it all together!

[mogbob]

Always listen to free advice.
Bottom line , I say to my mates when involved with their restorations / recommissioning ,
" It's your car and it's your decision , forget everyone else. You're the one whose got to live it and be happy.
Bob

[Myrtles Man]

Something of a quandary for you radioactiveman; to remove or not to remove, that is the question. In the past I always adjusted/replaced points and condenser in situ and although it was invariably a fiddly operation trying to see the condition of the faces of the points and being certain that I was holding the feeler gauge exactly parallel when checking the gap, I always managed it and the cars ran OK when done. However, I eventually came to the conclusion that my reluctance to remove the distributor and do the job on the bench was based on nothing more than an irrational fear that I might nause up the timing and provide myself with a whole world of hurt. So, having taken my bravery pills (Oh, OK, had a cup of tea if you prefer strict accuracy) I decided to proceed on the basis detailed by mogbob above and have to say that hereafter I'll always do it that way; so much easier to do the job and be absolutely certain that you've done it right. Also, with the distributor out, you can check the condition and action of the mechanical advance weights and the proper functioning of the vacuum advance (it hadn't been working in my case but, until I got it on the bench, I was none the wiser). Re-assembly was a complete doddle, again, following the advice already given and remembering not, in any circumstances, to allow the engine to turn until after final completion of the job.

[mogbob]

Well done Myrtles Man. You can sit back and really enjoy your cup of tea now , you've earned it. Bob