Not sure from the wording if you're suggesting I'm advising throwing money around without a structured fault finding process first, or reinforcing what I have already mentioned, sorry. But if as you say, you read my previous post (Sun Apr 24, 2022 7:38 pm) you'll note I gave instructions for checking the float and the needle valve/seat, and advice to replace either if found to be at fault. At no point did I suggest any purchase without testing, in fact the exact opposite.
The original poster gave a link to a float only for £28.70, I answered his question that it was the correct part. Further to this I supplied a link to a package including both but did not stipulate he needed both. I note ESM, a popular suppplier with members of this forum (no connection to the company and in fact I've never used them) sell the float only for £22.78 plus £3.54 postage. They don't list the needle valve and seat. By that reckoning £31.25 for both from Burlen looks a good call, although they don't list postage charges so the original poster would have to check. I also mentioned other suppliers may stock these items (but proceed with caution if non-genuine), anybody is welcome to shop around, never my intention to become a personal shopper! (Actually I'll be in the market for these parts soon, I have several spare carbs to overhaul then sell. A quick look around seems to show that all that seems to be available at the moment in the float line are Burlen's 'stay-up' floats, so they'll be profitting regardless of where you buy. There seems to be an aftermarket needle valve and seat available for about the same price as Burlen's, I know where I would put my money).
As Burlen are now effectively the SU carb company, their parts are generally regarded as the best available in the circles I move in at least, in my experience it is uncommon to find other dealers selling their parts for less although bargains may often be had with some time investment. There is a risk that non-Burlen parts lack quality control and I would not personally recommend such.
In the few posts I've made on here I've sung the praises of GKN propshaft parts, Gates fuel hose and Distributor Doctor ignition components. Along with Burlen SU bits, I've had excellent service and reliability from products from these companies, views shared by the majority of the classic car movement, and so I recommend to others. I never thought I'd have to give a disclaimer on the internet while offering advice to somebody obviously learning the ropes, but nope, I've never worked for anybody other than myself apart from a brief and enjoyable lottery funded stint at a museum, and as for shares, no real idea what they are or how it all works, and not fussed either, I put my money in old tat and try and stop it dissolving
Regards working with the fuel system, yes sparks from flicking a switch or steel on steel could be the cause of something nasty, and on the road a fuel leak under the bonnet won't be ignited by the manifold heat, but the resulting vapour may be set off by a stray spark from a badly maintained ignition system, or even flicking a switch on the dash if vapour finds its way into the cabin.
Scary error with the powder dispenser! Over the years I've seen a few bronze versions of common tools once used in explosive environments. My ultrasonic thickness tester is an 'intrinsically safe' model, as long as the operator remembers to change the batteries outside the danger zone
Kind regards, Chris.
Clearly the issue has got worse as the fuel is now very obviously leaking, hmmm. It’s doubly annoying considering how expensive it is 
