I would like to change the Old style fuse box to modern blade fuse box

[simmitc]

One thing to remember is that although there are published cut-off dates for various components and changes to design, record keeping in the early 60's was done on paper, often with a fountain pen; it was not as accurate as the computerised systems of today. Full traceability came into fashion a bit later. The club has a register of "transitional" cars where they have some elements oif an early design and some of a later design. Add to that 60 odd years of various owners improving / modifying / restoring the car, and one should not be surprised if the car does not have the "correct" features. My very first Minor, bought in 1978, was a 1963 A-registered 4 door saloon with trafficators and the later combined side/indicator units on the front wings where the system had been upgraded and the trafficators disconnected. Remember also that a car might have left the factory and then been used on trade plates as a demonstration car before sitting in a showroom and then being registered a year or two later.

In the original factory production records held at Gaydon, I have seen cars recorded as leaving with two engines and two different colour trims We are sometimes told by "experts" that one of our cars has the wrong colour wheels, despite us having a photograph of the car a couple of days after it was delivered new, showing the same colour wheels as are on it now. One chap I spoke to who used to work at the factory told me that if they ran out of, for example, red seats and trim, then they would fit black instead as they always had more of that available.

The point is that there is no absolute guarantee of what the car "should" have, although from what I can see in your photo, the chassis number suggests a production date in late 1963, but it's not completely clear - if I look at the photo a different way, it could be a late 1962 car, so I stand to be corrected.

[MCYorks]

I may move the 2 Flasher units inside then I might be able to hear the clicks

I bolted my flasher unit to the dash support panel under the glovebox. It did a great job of amplifying the clicks, so I could even hear it on the motorway Also has the advantage that you don't have to run as many wires through the bulkhead. Personally I would use insulated 'Lucar' connectors for anything other than earth connections. Also, it's a good idea to use rubber grommets in any holes to prevent the wires chafing.

[Bubblemechanic]

Thank you and I will try and follow you photos of the inside of the boxes and if I need assistance I will get in touch again and thanks for those links of the 2 moggies with both fuse boxes side by side.

Where did you get you Wrapping from for the wiring because as you can see the binding as gone from mine.

As you have worked out! The problem started when I had to have 2 separate circuits for indicators going back to the indicator stalk because the stalk is powered from a central point when all the wires were connected up in the glove box for L / R direction as soo as you energized the one side everything powered up and activated like hazard warning lights.

Where have you put all the earth wires?

What happens first how do I start disconnecting the old regulator box and where the wires go?

Cheers Paul.

[Bubblemechanic]

How do I get Information About my car From Gaydon because the number plate I suspect has been changed because it is non Transferable
also there is no Engine number so I think at some point that has been changed? When I bought it it was the most awful hand brushed green and I have re-sprayed it a high gloss Taxi Black and I know I have to register change of colour.

It has been sorned since 2006 when I bought it.

[geoberni]

Well, as you know, the Voltage Regulator in an Alternator Conversion is just reduced to use as a terminal box, so anything you fancy for the connections really. I found this image online where they just seem to have a single insulated terminal post, with a separate earth stud.

terminal.jpg (30.2 KiB) Viewed 2467 times

You'll probably need to search some of the specialist Vehicle Electrics suppliers such as this one
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk ... n-post-red

As to earth wires, it depends how many random bolts (or just holes) are around the car from past modifications. I found plenty on mine, in the engine bay and behind the dash/gloveboxes.

Your car has definitely been subject to a Reg number change if the V5C says it's non transferable. It's presumably an age related number, possibly an A Plate?

When you say 'No Engine Number' are you meaning on the V5C or just the plate on the bulkhead?
Don't worry about the plate on the bulkhead, it's the actual engine and the V5c that should match.

As to wrapping the loom, I just got some fabric electrical tape from ebay; search for 'Wiring Loom Fabric Electrical Tape' and you'll find loads of it in different widths.

despite some people's views on how terrible DVLA are, they should at least provide you with details of Reg Number Changes. Check their website.

I think that's all your current questions answered.

[MCYorks]

the number plate I suspect has been changed because it is non Transferable

Not necessarily the case. If the car had been off the road for a long time and wasn't registered with DVLC before 30 November 1983, then it would have 'lost' it's original registration. The original registration could have recovered later using the V765 scheme, but then it would be on a non-transferable basis. Look at your V5C and check if the date of first registration matches the date of manufacture. You can also do this on the DVLA website. If the date of first registration is after 1990 then it's quite possibly a 'recovered' original registration. The DVLA should be able to tell you for sure.

[geoberni]

If the car had been off the road for a long time and wasn't registered with DVLC before 30 November 1983, then it would have 'lost' it's original registration. The original registration could have recovered later using the V765 scheme, but then it would be on a non-transferable basis. Look at your V5C and check if the date of first registration matches the date of manufacture. You can also do this on the DVLA website. If the date of first registration is after 1990 then it's quite possibly a 'recovered' original registration.

I did not know that; yet another quirk of the DVLA process.

Basil's registration saga was the original 1955 number 'Cherished transferred' in 1991 (currently on a 2003 Renault), when he was given the ignominy of a 1963 A Plate, then in 1999, he was given an 'Age related' non-transferable.

[simmitc]

To get a production trace / heritage certificate from Gaydon, you need to quote the chassis number only. The registration number is not recorded in the production register - the register was in the factory, the registration number allocated by a local County office close the the dealer, after the car was sold, often months after the car left the factory.

[Nourish]

Why oh why do people use those horrible Red, Blue and Yellow insulated terminals? You don't see car manufacturers using them - Why not? - because they look unprofessional and are likely to let you down sooner or later.
Do yourselves a favour and buy the right tool and the correct terminals and covers -they're cheap enough!

Non ins crimp pliers.jpg (49.71 KiB) Viewed 2412 times

These are £4.47+ from autoelectricsupplies.co.uk and maybe cheaper elsewhere?
(don't confuse these for the Insulated type crimp pliers)

Spade terminals.jpg (301.44 KiB) Viewed 2412 times

These are available from our least favourite Auction Site, Auto Electricians and car Shops etc.

Here is a dearer pair of pliers that I find a bit more clumsy that the cheapo ones to use but look here to see how they work:-
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/87

And a Video on Youtube :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tK__uRuv4E

Cheers

[geoberni]

Why oh why do people use those horrible Red, Blue and Yellow insulated terminals?

Well you're entitled to an opinion, but since you've started a tangential conversation, I'd point out that most terminals on a Minor are actually bullets and the fully correct bullets and tools are quite expensive. Around £30 for the tool and about 20p a terminal.

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... ategory/87
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/27

The ones you've linked to are for the bent over tab type of crimp, which are generally not the standard used for classic cars in my experience, but others will likely say otherwise.

As to

You don't see car manufacturers using them

actually they were extensively used in the cars of their day, e.g. Minors et al... They don't use them now because the wiring is so much thinner, due to the amount of it being fitted in.

PIDG Terminals have been around for a great many decades, made by the most reputable and respected manufacturers in the business, used on all manner of vehicles, including ships and aircraft, where reliability is essential.
National and International Specifications for such terminals go back as least to the 1960s. The earliest version I know of is MIL-T-7928F which was 1967, so I wouldn't be surprised if version A didn't originate in the 1930s/40s.

A basic ratchet tool for PIDG will cost about £10-£20 up to several £100s, but for automotive use the bottom end is fine. This one is around £10.

crimp tool.JPG (66.14 KiB) Viewed 2398 times

A Ratchet Crimp Tool is designed so that you use it until the ratchet releases, thus ensuring that the correct amount of compression has taken place, instead of guessing it.
You get the quality you pay for, no matter what the style of connector, or crimp tool.

[MCYorks]

Why oh why do people use those horrible Red, Blue and Yellow insulated terminals? You don't see car manufacturers using them - Why not?

If they're hidden out of the way then you don't see them
The biggest problem seems to be people using the incorrect crimping tool, followed by selecting the wrong size (colour) terminal for the wire size. As has already been said, the correct crimping tool for the terminals being fitted must be used, and you must select the correct size, if you want a reliable connection. The trouble is, people often won't spend money on a decent crimping tool just for fitting a handful of terminals. I've lost count of the number of times I've found terminals that appear to have been 'crimped' with pliers or mole grips
The big enemy to electrical connectors on cars is moisture causing corrosion. Which is why all modern vehicles now use sealed electrical connectors.
I personally prefer soldering terminals and the original Minor bullet connectors were soldered, but crimped terminals are quicker to fit.

[Bubblemechanic]

Thank you very much for all the information about Gaydon and will certainly get the information to them and see what comes back.
Also for the help about all the wiring probs if I need more help will be back
Cheers Bubblemechanic.

[Bubblemechanic]

When I said about the Engine number missing I meant that the Plate that is riveted to the Engine block is missing presumably rotted away or it could have had an engine change
Paul.

[philthehill]

If the engine number is missing but the heads of the rivets are still in place the engine number has most likely rotted away. If the rivet heads are missing then there is a high likelihood that the engine has been re-bored. The engine number has to be removed to enable the boring bar to sit flat on the top of the block. In that case there is a good chance that the engine number plate was discarded.
You can get replacement engine number plates in the correct style.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392884038867 ... SwhARfGtFS