Changing diffs
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Changing diffs
I am in the throws of changing our 4.55:1 diff for a 4.22:1 one. As the more experienced will know the earlier diff had the filler in the nose casing where as the later ones are on the back plate. Before I go drilling holes in the back plate any thoughts, ideas etc. about the plug. Sorry if this has come up before but I cannot find any thread. Regards to all, Nigel
RE: Changing diffs
I'm fairly sure my 65 1098 Traveller with 4.22 diff has the filler on the nose. I'm several thousand miles away from it at the moment - so it's hard to look see !



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- Minor Fan
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Re: Changing diffs
You could always transfer the pinion and carrier from one casing to the other. Assuming you have the tools to do this.Nigel2 wrote:Before I go drilling holes in the back plate any thoughts, ideas etc. about the plug.
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- Minor Addict
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We cut an old filler hole and about 25mm of metal in a square off an old axle(note the position) then cut the same size hole in my existing rear axle and welded the new filler hole & plate o­nto the axle in the correct position so that I can check the diff oil and top up as required. This seems to have worked OK.<BR><BR>Jeff
DIFF + BRAKES
Thanks for comments. I cut out a sump bush with sump plug from a redundant sump, welded it in and then smeared JB weld around it. All seems to work OK. Next problem, seized front wheel cylinder X 2. Anybody have any thoughts on pattern cylinders verses 'original'. I know seals cannot be replaced but have generally found that by the time the seals need replacing they are knackered anyway!
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- Minor Legend
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original
Since the brakes are so important to your well being I would go for
'original' every time. There have been problems with various pattern
brake components.
'original' every time. There have been problems with various pattern
brake components.
Willie
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