Modern heater valves

[southerly95]

Whilst I was still working I bought a recon engine from BM and plus all new ancilliaries at the same time on the basis that I would have a new engine to enjoy for my retirement and not have to worry about repairs. Original heater valves were angled about 20 degrees from the vertical and no longer available and cheap imports don’t fit standard heads without much grinding to fit.

So I built a small extension that would raise the valve and tilt it slightly to give good clearance.
Using an old heater valve spacer I fashioned another from 3mm steel and bought some seamless steel tube from eBay. The tube was cut at an angle both ends and brazed together with the end pieces.

After spraying and installing the engine was dropped in (along with the gearbox I had reconditioned).

Top two pics are mine.

Having done this I found I was not (predictably) the first !
I have copied those pics in from the net one of which was done by Philthehill (I can’t attribute the other two). Slight difference is that the others appear to be 940 heads and done for slightly different reasons but each good in their own way. Regards, John

[Ian Jones]

My '68 traveller has the earlier manual screw valve fitted which is normally not an issue but occasionally it would be useful to operate it remotely. I had understood that the valves currently available were a problem in use, not just in fitting. Maybe I've misunderstood. I can make a fitting such as the ones above if that is what I need to do. So, is there a known supplier of good valves?

Regards

Ian

[Declan_Burns]

I read in a recent newsletter from ESM that they are still working on producing new valves. I am currently installing a heater in my MG and have had the plate for the back of the cylinder head laser cut. This is a photo of the valve I purchased. I know someone on here also used this valve with good results. I think it was "biomed32uk".
Regards
Declan

[simmitc]

What is really needed is a two-way valve: Position 1, water leaves head and passes to heater; position 2, water leaves head and passes to heater return line without entering the heater. The advantage of this is that it would keep water flowing through the head without creating a dead end. I think that an old Singer Vogue that I once had used that type of valve. Does anyone know of a suitable valve that can still be moounted in the engine bay and be cable operated?

[Ian Jones]

So is the "dead end" a known problem on a standard engine or does it only manifest itself (head overheating?) on a tuned engine. What I'm really asking I suppose, is whether I should keep my manual valve open and rely on closing the air off to prevent passengers overheating? If so I'll need to try to improve the air sealing in the heater. Not a problem just now but next summer.......

Regards

Ian

[Declan_Burns]

Simmitc,
You need a three way valve to do that. They are available and I have several as I will probably use the same on the MG-at least for testing. There are two types an "L" ported and a "T" ported version. The ones that I have (3/8" chinky cheap!) is lever operated but I am not sure a cable would work-pulling- yes pushing ?. Maybe with a solid wire inner cable. Also be careful of the temperature rating. Most of these valves for domestic applications are only rated for 80°C.
The movement on the inline valve in my earlier post is excellent. You can open/close it with your little finger and it seals really well-at least at the moment.
Regards
Declan

[Mark Wilson]

I'm planning to use a diverter as suggested, fitted close to the heater. Head cooling is a bit of a worry as I'm using a Mini mpi non bypass head. I was hoping to make it cable operated with a spring assisted return, but as the operation is 180 degrees this isn't really practical, so it will have to be operated directly by reaching under the dash. I initially bought a "cheap chinese" which turned out to be plastic, so unlikely to be suitable for the operating temperatures, so replaced it with this still cheap chinese but all metal construction - seems well made.

[biomed32uk]

That was indeed the valve I am using and have fitted inline, its been there 18 months and has been no further trouble. Works with the standard Minor control knob and cable.

Enables you to just crack it open to slightly warm the heater, works well when the weather starts to cool down a little.

There are diverter type valves around, think T7 designs do them as well. I was working on the basis that the old one simply closed the flow from the back of the head when switched off, so BMC must have thought that was OK.

I have a temp gauge fitted from a classic mini, and we have had some hot days this summer and it will nudge up a little if I push her hard - 1098, but even then its sitting under the N.