
compression test
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compression test
right then ,probably gonna make myself sound a fool now ,but here gos,the test i did on splitty motor averaged 50-75psi all 4 pots,but it was 15/20 yr old gauge,pump up type ,noy dial guage, since then ive taken engine/box out and got a new gunson tester , mainly to test the trav engine, so connecting power can i do the test on a cold engine ,will a make a lot of difference not being at normal; temp,thanks for looking ,A.Dullard 

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RE: compression test
Its best to do it on a fully warmed up engine as the reading you will get on a cold engine will not be accurate. The heat of the engine expands the piston rings so to raise the pressure fully hot, u wud get a low reading on a cold engine. Bit of a pain really specially if your not intending on going anywhere and you want to save a bit of money on petrol costs!!
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RE: compression test
If it helps i did a cold compression test on the trav (with a rebuilt engine ~10,000 miles ago) the cylinders that didn't have the blown head gasket were about 140psi
Serial Morris Minor Owner and Old Vehicle Nutter
RE: compression test
nice one matt , will give it a go
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RE: compression test
oh, that is an engine bored out by 40thou too, 12g202 (bog standard) head
Serial Morris Minor Owner and Old Vehicle Nutter
RE: compression test
No harm doing it cold - either take the carb off or hold the throttle wide open. The readings may not be the best - but they will show if there is any difference from cylinder to cylinder - which is what really matters !



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RE: compression test
i did it with the carb on and the throttle closed (well at idle if you know what i mean) with the other 3 plugs in
Serial Morris Minor Owner and Old Vehicle Nutter
RE: compression test
Noooooo !! The throttle must be held wide open to let it get air - and all the plugs out to let the starter spin the engine as hard as possible. Obviously a good fully charged battery - or jump leads from another - is a good idea. You don't want the starter 'flagging' when it gets to the last cylinder. Do it again !



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RE: compression test
Uh.
My compression test doobry comes with instructions which say to perform the test:
- Fully warm engine
- All plugs in except cylinder being tested
Does not mention the state of the throttle. At the moment I can't envisage why it'd need the throttle open....
My compression test doobry comes with instructions which say to perform the test:
- Fully warm engine
- All plugs in except cylinder being tested
Does not mention the state of the throttle. At the moment I can't envisage why it'd need the throttle open....
Pyoor Kate
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The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
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RE: compression test
Well........ you don't NEED the throttle open as at those revs (very low) it can draw air in quite easily, but an open throttle makes it even easier but I doubt it would make much difference practically.
I personally would take the plugs out of the other cylinders just to make life easier for the starter, but again it makes no difference to the cylinder on test.
A warm engine is best as then everything is at working temp and the rings have expanded properly.
I personally would take the plugs out of the other cylinders just to make life easier for the starter, but again it makes no difference to the cylinder on test.
A warm engine is best as then everything is at working temp and the rings have expanded properly.