Going to replace clutch kit on my Morry early next year, I have access to a hoist . Is the easiest way to just drop the box out ? Its a 52 minor with 1100 gearbox and 950 motor. Cheers Steve.

Cheers for that Phil. Thats what we thought . Just take the g/box out. We have a propper 4 post hoist to use in a mechanics workshop . Everyone else saying take motor out ,philthehill wrote:I always found that the easiest way to remove the gearbox is to drop the box out from underneath using the hoist (or jack) to support the engine.
Removing the gearbox from underneath is made easier if you can get the car up on car ramps at the front and axle stands at the rear under the axle. I do not trust axle stands at the front for this particular job as you end up pulling a pushing and you do not want the car coming off the axle stands on top of you.
Cheers Simmitc .simmitc wrote:Clutch replacement is easiest with engine out, leave the gearbox in place. Contrary to what some instructions quote, there is no need to drain any oil.
thanks for thatles wrote:I would have thought engine out would be better. In fact you only need to disconnect and raise it up, then you can swivel it through 90'degrees to get at the clutch, while it hangs there.
Hi Smithskids. Wow nearly 80 and still messing with Morrys . You must really love them,. Thanks for you advise.smithskids wrote:Engine out is definitely the easiest, and if the gear box has to come out as well you only have to take the floor up and undo the propshaft and mounts etc. then lift it out by hand. I am 80 next year and can still manage it out in a day with out too much trouble.
philthehill wrote:Even easier if you have a 4 post hoist.
Some things to take into account when removing the gearbox.
Disconnect the battery.
Be careful of the heater valve when lowering the engine.
Mark the diff & propshaft flanges before disconnecting the prop so that it all goes back together the same & keeps the balance.
Slacken & disconnect the exhaust clamp.
Slacken engine mounting nuts
Remove top hose from radiator.
Slacken off engine steady bar but not head bolt.
Drain the gearbox oil otherwise it will be all over you when you drop the rear end of the gearbox.
Remove gear lever.
Remove top bolts from gearbox bell housing before dropping the engine as when dropped the bolts can not always be removed.
When you pull the gearbox rearwards and downwards twist the gearbox to the right to clear the rack.
When reassembling - coat the cross member bolts/screws in Copper Ease.
Removal of the gearbox cross member from the gearbox does make life easier.
The floor does not have to be removed to gain access to the gearbox rear mounting bolts but you will need to lift a small section of carpet to gain access to the gearbox cross member top bolts/screws.
Section FF1 of the Minor wksp manual recommends the removal of the gearbox as the way to get to the clutch. Fig FF2 shows the gearbox part way out - to replace a Minor clutch when I worked in the BMC garage the gearbox was always removed using the vehicle hoist to gain underside access. Thanks heaps for the info Phil.
Phil
Cheers Phil..philthehill wrote:Whether you remove the engine and gearbox together or remove the gearbox from below you do not have to remove the gearbox cover only the 4 upper screws for the gearbox cross member mount which are accessed from inside the car.
If the captive nuts in the chassis rail turn that is a completely different kettle of fish.
The four upper cross member screws can be easily have their heads drilled off to allow the cross member to be removed and they can be replaced if necessary when the cross member is removed completely.
Many Minor owners do not have access to an engine hoist and removing the gearbox from below is their only option.
Removing and refitting the gearbox from below is not the difficult and fraught with problems task that it is being made out to be. Take it slowly and carefully and the task will be completed without complications.
Been there, got the tea shirt and the video.![]()
Phil