Steering gaiter replacement

Post by **loti** » Sat May 10, 2003 4:09 pm

Loti has just had her 3rd MOT since being in my ownership - the first failure!! - two bulbs and a steering gaiter - cost me £5.50 in replacement parts. The joys of Moggie ownership continue I thought. Another afternoon in the garage tinkering away simply replacing a gaiter. OK - so simply is not quite the right word - how many rusty srews to remove and why are they always cross headed? And I love that bit in the Haynes manual where it says ' Release the lock nuts and screw off the ball joints' HOW? Any ideas or short cuts would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Mark

Post by **Willie** » Sat May 10, 2003 5:43 pm

The usual advice is to hit the steering arm section of the ball joint
on opposite sides at the same time with two hammers,this should
shock the taper free. A more refined method is to buy or hire a
'ball joint splitter' which will do the job with no trouble. When all is
replaced do not forget to pump some more Hypoid (rear axle) oil
through the nipple on the passenger side toe board. A maximum
of 12 strokes.

Post by **Cam** » Sat May 10, 2003 6:52 pm

Don't get the screw type splitter, they just seem to self destruct if the taper is a bit stuck. Get the fork type that you can belt with a big hammer.

Also, get a blowlamp and warm the trackrod end locking nut (as much as possible without melting anything), then put a spanner (tightly fitting the nut) on the locknut and whack it until it undoes. (do this bit before taking the balljoint off)

Then by applying more heat to the trackrod end you should be able to unscrew it (against a spanner held in the small groove on the trackrod).

When it is all re-assambled don't forget to get the tracking checked!

Post by **loti** » Sat May 10, 2003 7:06 pm

Thanks guys. The bit (do this bit before taking the balljoint off) I wish I'd asked before I'd managed to do this with the prodigious use of hydraulic jack upward and hammer downward. Still I'll try the heating up bit tommorrow! Once again reliable and useful advice - thanks

Mark

Post by **les** » Sat May 10, 2003 10:44 pm

Why break the ball joint taper, just undo the locknuts and screw off the ball joints by turning the rack rods, then before removing the locknuts, put tape around the rack where the lock nut comes up to, (when putting the nut back after fitting the new gaiter this ensures it goes back as it came off) tracking should then be unaffected. The gaiter clips will need releasing before turning the rods.

Post by **Cam** » Sat May 10, 2003 11:00 pm

Les, good idea about leaving the trackrod end in place. Although it does (for some reason) seem easier to screw them off the ends?!?

About the tape. when you undo the lock nuts (towards the centre of the car) it will chew through the marker tape, so it can't really be done that way. And when doing a job like this it's always advisable to get the tracking checked afterwards.

I once replaced a stub axle assembly and used the original steering arm (without breaking the balljoint taper) and my tracking was MILES out causing bad tyre wear. But I would have assumed that it would not alter the tracking by much if any at all!

So, being as you are adjusting the adjuster, it's best to get it checked.

Besides which, you can always check by putting tape around the thread AFTER you have removed the locknut to give you a rough gauge.