1952 stub axle bearing removal

[philthehill]

Thank you for the pictures but the measurements required are the thickness of the outer race on both sides of the bearing i.e from the seal to the outer face of the bearing. Not the depth of the bearing or any other measurements.
Phil

[dubman1959]

Hi Phil.
These are the bearings i just taken out.

IMG_3455.JPG (112.77 KiB) Viewed 3259 times

IMG_3455.JPG (112.77 KiB) Viewed 3259 times

Still not 100% sure what way round the new ones go in , The new ones i have are the wrong size so have to sort that,. Cheers Steve

[philthehill]

Thank you for posting the additional bearing photos.

With your old bearings you will note that the thickness of the outer bearing race appears to be thicker on one side than the other - the thick side is the thrust side and takes the side thrust..
As regards the bearing ball cage just a pressed steel cage instead of a brass forged cage so not unusual and no concerns there except it appears that the cage has fractured in several places which can happen with the brass cage also.
Sorry to hear that the bearings are the wrong size.
Phil

[RobThomas]

bear2.JPG (20.79 KiB) Viewed 3254 times

bear1.JPG (20.7 KiB) Viewed 3254 times

Off the internet...

If you tightened the main spindle nut on the first pic it would pull the centres of the bearings in towards each other but on the other one it would pull the centres AND the outers towards each other, resulting in a clamping force. I'm sure someone else can describe the process better than I.

[philthehill]

Rob
Thank you for the pictures
They clearly show the thick / thin sides of the bearing race.
Your description is more than adequate.
If the clamping effect is not pulling the thrusts together the bearing can fall apart under load
Phil

[RobThomas]

I seem to recall being Trolled a few years ago on here for suggesting that you couldn't just fit them any old way round.

[dubman1959]

I seem to recall being Trolled a few years ago on here for suggesting that you couldn't just fit them any old way round.

. Its the most confusing thing i have ever come across. Only one of the 4 bearings has thrust written on .

[dubman1959]

bear2.JPGbear1.JPG

Off the internet...

If you tightened the main spindle nut on the first pic it would pull the centres of the bearings in towards each other but on the other one it would pull the centres AND the outers towards each other, resulting in a clamping force. I'm sure someone else can describe the process better than I.

Hi Rob. So you are saying the top picture is the correct way ?. Only one of the 4 bearings mentions the word thrust,

[RobThomas]

If you look at the pictures you can maybe see that there is only one way to assemble the bearing since the 'gap' is bigger on one side for the balls to be slipped in. That means you could, in theory, push the inner race in one direction and the balls could fall out but if you push the inner the other direction it will not fall apart but any force against the inner race would translate to a force pushing the outer race in the same direction. A bit like a doorway, if you push one way the door will open (bad for a bearing) but pushing the door the other direction holds it tight to the door frame and you are effectively trying to push the door frame and wall (good for a bearing).

Open sides of the bearings facing away from each other. Top photo is the right way to assemble them into the hub

[philthehill]

Rob
The photo which shows the correct orientation is your posted photo bear 1.JPG (20.7KIB) which is not the top photo.
And to add to the confusion the bearing nearest the viewer is the inner bearing, the bearing furthest away from the viewer is the outer bearing. Not helped by position/arrangement of the steering swivel pin in the background.
Phil

[dubman1959]

If you look at the pictures you can maybe see that there is only one way to assemble the bearing since the 'gap' is bigger on one side for the balls to be slipped in. That means you could, in theory, push the inner race in one direction and the balls could fall out but if you push the inner the other direction it will not fall apart but any force against the inner race would translate to a force pushing the outer race in the same direction. A bit like a doorway, if you push one way the door will open (bad for a bearing) but pushing the door the other direction holds it tight to the door frame and you are effectively trying to push the door frame and wall (good for a bearing).

Open sides of the bearings facing away from each other. Top photo is the right way to assemble them into the hub

Cheers for that RobThomas. I am just about to post pics of the new bearings that will be fitted

[dubman1959]

So been to bearing specialist and they put the numbers of the old bearings into the computer . One was 7303B and the other was 7205B. This pic is the Replacement type of bearing that is crossed over from those numbers for morry thou stubs which is what my 52 morry has up front, .

23172537_1699453783461444_5625263559335880470_n.jpg (69.02 KiB) Viewed 3222 times

i will post some more pics once i have them fitted up, Cheers Steve

[philthehill]

The computer may have given you the replacement numbers but the bearing shown in your photo above is a taper roller bearing which is totally different to the ball race bearings originally fitted to your hubs.
Whilst there are taper bearing conversions available for your hub I personally would be wary of just accepting the computers recommendations.
When the taper roller bearing is fitted the spacer is not required and there has to be slight rocking play at the tyre rim.

[dubman1959]

The computer may have given you the replacement numbers but the bearing shown in your photo above is a taper roller bearing which is totally different to the ball race bearings originally fitted to your hubs.
Whilst there are taper bearing conversions available for your hub I personally would be wary of just accepting the computers recommendations.
When the taper roller bearing is fitted the spacer is not required and there has to be slight rocking play at the tyre rim.

Cheers Phil, These are the only bearing i can get my hands on in New Zealand And they measure spot on. I think they will do the job, Was wondering about the spacer.Cheers Steve

[dubman1959]

So Job done, Now fitted Taper roller bearings to the Morry Thou stubs and they are amazing, you can notice the difference. There use to be a bit of pressure on the steering wheel when you put car into a tight curve.Now doing it in the same curve and same speed it just flows without any pressure on steering at all. Great conversion.[/attachment]

a134.JPG (165.8 KiB) Viewed 3177 times

a134.JPG (165.8 KiB) Viewed 3177 times

[philthehill]

Well done and a good result.

I may have missed the NSK bearing numbers - can you please post the number on here for future reference?

Phil

[RobThomas]

Aha. I've just discovered that on the main web page it shows the photos in a back-to-front order from the way it shows them in the 'review' of the page that is visible when you are writing a reply. Phil is correct that it is the top photo (bear 1) if you are reading the page but the lower photo if you are typing a reply.