Damper level monitor

[Declan_Burns]

I decided to fit a level monitor to the dampers. This is a mock-up of what it could like. I am just experimenting a bit on this and will be testing it as soon as my health improves. The cap will of course be vented. The idea is to see when the damper needs a top-up or need to replaced. It just screws into the top of the damper and makes refilling quite easy. For the rear damper I intend to use a short hose so the reservoir remains horizontal.

Regards
Declan

[Fingolfin]

Smart!

[RobThomas]

I was looking into having an extension made to fit between the body of the damper and the cap that would add about 4cm to the height and thus add volume. Thick walled hollow ali box section.

[philthehill]

Declan, Rob
I have to ask the question - why do you need a monitor for the dampers and/or extra capacity of damper fluid.
If the dampers are leaking it will show - the dampers (front & rear) should be checked for leaks every 1000 miles and that fluid levels are correct at the 6000 mile service interval. Those mileages are specified in the BMC Minor service schedule.
If the dampers are found to be leaking at the 1000 mile interval the levels should be check irrespective.
Phil

[RobThomas]

In my case it was because mine DO leak. Drilling 6 holes in a piece of ali is quicker than removing the dampers to do a proper rebuild. They still work so long as I keep them topped up, which is a PITA!

[les]

I've always admired Declan's 'inventions' and workmanship but in this case, like Phil, why!

[Fingolfin]

Perhaps because it's easier to tell the level by a quick glance, rather than by breaking knuckles wrenching on the filler plug in confined spaces? I really like this idea.

[philthehill]

If the dampers are leaking they need attention - if they are not leaking there is no need to top up or worry about the fluid levels between service intervals.
The filler plug if tightened correctly should not need to be undone with knuckle wrenching force , after all it is only screwed into an alloy body therefore only needs to be nipped up.
I do not think that there is any hardship in examining the dampers every 1000 miles and examining the fluid levels every 6000 miles.
I personally would not consider the area around the Minor damper to be confined.
What does need to be examined and checked on a regular basis is the damper mounting bolts - the examination of which is as important as the fluid levels. Even though the heads of the bolts have a locking tab under them the body of the damper is so soft that with use the damper body gets squashed under the bolt heads and so reduces the effective tightness of the bolt.
If those bolts become excessively loose the bolts can shear allowing the suspension to collapse. Loose bolts do not do the captive threads in the cross member any good either.

Phil

[RobThomas]

Declan. Do you sell sets of those seals etc? It would be handy to be able to get them all in a bag. I know you listed some part numbers a while ago but I guess the source is in Germany?

Phil. You've never seen me stuck on the floor, trying to get up and then having to wait for the kids to get home from school to help me.
Generally I can get down onto the floor and work (bushes, brake cylinders etc) but more than 5 minutes will tweak the spinal cord enough to leave me unable to bend enough to sit up.

[philthehill]

Rob
Unfortunately I am not that far behind you at the moment. My days of squeezing under the car to do the most mundane of tasks have had to be severely curtailed.
One of the problems with getting old I suppose.
Phil

[Declan_Burns]

Declan. Do you sell sets of those seals etc? It would be handy to be able to get them all in a bag. I know you listed some part numbers a while ago but I guess the source is in Germany?

Phil. You've never seen me stuck on the floor, trying to get up and then having to wait for the kids to get home from school to help me.
Generally I can get down onto the floor and work (bushes, brake cylinders etc) but more than 5 minutes will tweak the spinal cord enough to leave me unable to bend enough to sit up.

Rob,
Which seals do you mean?
I can list the seals required for damper repair. They are cheap and available locally.


Moggy Front Shaft size 28,5 x 37,6 x 7,0
Use 28 x 38 x 7 Esska2,98€,HUG 2,42€,IR 1,80€
Core plug 25.2mm (25.4=1”) Thickness 1.75mm £0.66 each
Source:
http://www.coreplugs.co.uk/index.php?ro ... uct_id=135
Stainless steel £1.55 each
http://www.coreplugs.co.uk/index.php?ro ... uct_id=205

Moggy rear
17x 27x6mm
17x 27x6mm installed on 15.08.2015 and no lathework was required!
17x 28 is too big!

IR has 17x28x5 and 17x28x7. No 17x27
Esska has 17x27x6 and 17x27x7& 17x28x6 and 17x28x7 Postage (only DHL/DPD) 6,90€
HUG has 17x27x6, 17x27x7 and 17x28x6 (<5 1.83€ and >5 1.65€) Postage (1.90€)-also available in VITON

28mm require turning down!
Regards
Declan

[Declan_Burns]

Here's the version with a slightly larger reservoir. I will start testing today.

Regards
Declan

[Declan_Burns]

Two issues I noticed yesterday while tinkering with my mate's traveller and looking at some dampers that we repaired:
1) Some of the front Armstrong dampers have the 5/16"x 26tpi BSB filling plug mounted at an angle. In this case a tube and bracket would be required.
2) The elephants trunk runs very close to the front damper and needs to be tied back for clearance to the reservoir.

Regards
Declan