TRE splitters and gaiters

[936cbpminor]

Hi,
Doing a bit of routine servicing and discovered split steering gaitor. What is the best splitter to use to get the TRE off the taper? Also, any tricks tips in changing the gaitor apart from the obvious counting turns so tracking is not lost.
Ta.

[jagnut66]

Hi,
I have one of these, works a treat.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[936cbpminor]

Cheers Mike. Saw one and was going to buy. I will now!

[neilmorey]

I changed a steering rack gaiter the other week and it was a horrible job. First had to hack saw through the old retaining clips as it was impossible to get a screwdriver onto the existing fixing. Used the same type of ball joint splitter as shown above but was unable to move the TRE locknut despite using Ferrosol penetrating fluid and then heat.
I used a Bailcast boot kit that can be slid over the TRE without having to remove from the rack. Remove the grease nipple and use plenty of grease to lubricate the new boot and the fitting cone. I also resorted to using bicycle tyre levers to get the narrow end over the TRE. Once fitted it is secured with supplied cable ties.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bailcast-DBSR ... SwAuZX4Pf5

[philthehill]

Using penetrating oil only makes the problem of the TRE nut worse as it frees and lubricates the TRE taper pin and so allows the taper pin of to turn with the nut.
Putting the steering on full lock and using a piece of timber placed into the body and over the TRE, pressing the TRE hard down into the steering arm is nine times out of ten sufficient to allow the taper pin to grip the steering arm and the nut to be undone.

[jagnut66]

but was unable to move the TRE locknut despite using Ferrosol penetrating fluid and then heat.

Sounds like an advert for the judicious use of copper grease on the thread when putting the nut back on after.

Using penetrating oil only makes the problem of the TRE nut worse as it frees and lubricates the TRE taper pin and so allows the taper pin of to turn with the nut.
Putting the steering on full lock and using a piece of timber placed into the body and over the TRE, pressing the TRE hard down into the steering arm is nine times out of ten sufficient to allow the taper pin to grip the steering arm and the nut to be undone.

A useful tip, I have also experienced the pin turning dilemma and I'd lay odds that allot of others on here have also, it's not funny. They mention track rod ends in the 'staff car sagas' section of practical classics this month, pages 98 / 99.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[philthehill]

Only put Copper Ease on threads that have a plain or castellated nut.
It should not be put on threads where a nylock nut is intended to be used.
The nut relies on the grip of the nylon insert to hold the nut tight - using Copper Ease diminishes that grip and therefore should not be used.
Before fitting the taper into the steering arm give the male and female tapers a good clean to remove all traces of lubricant - the male and female tapers should have metal to metal contact which will be of benefit when it comes to undoing the nut at a later date as the metal to metal contact increases the grip in the taper.

[936cbpminor]

Many thanks to all the comments posted.
I shall report back with suitable expletives (if appropriate!!) next weekend
In the meantime, out with the cheque book!!

[936cbpminor]

With thanks to suggestions/comments to all who posted here. Steering gaiter replaced. Biggest 'problem' was getting the gaiter over the end of the rack through the access hole. The original clamp was a no no and a slim jubilee clip was the answer although I am sure a 'cable tie' would be easier. It was nice to find that although the old one was split little or no crud had got in and the rack and ball joint was sound as a pound and well lubricated.
Again thanks to all.