jacking points on a 1954 minor?

[Budgie]

Just as the question states really. I have been sent pictures of a 1954 minor which looks in very good condition but the one thing that's thrown me is the pictures of the underneath show no jacking points on the car in the usual places. So my question is... are there supposed to be any there on a car of this age ? ?

[Trickydicky]

Some owners are not comfortable with them due to corrosion issues so when cars are restored choose not to have them. They can be readded if required.
When my own crossmember was replaced I decided against having them added for this reason anfter advice from members on here.

[Budgie]

Hmmm so does that mean that they did have them from new and someone has "hacked" them off for the reasons you've mentioned?

[ManyMinors]

On a 1954 car though, the jacking points never would have been attached to the crossmember
There would have been a jacking point in each inner wing - for use with a completely different jack.
Probably these areas are even more badly affected by corrosion than those on the later cars!
If I were you I'd purchase a copy of the original Series11 driver's handbook which will contain all information you need.

[Budgie]

Ah I see thanks, I was just after some info about this car and it's lack of jacking points in the usual position before I view and possibly make an offer as I never new there was a different jacking point area, you learn something everyday.

[palacebear]

If you have a handbook or a workshop manual which covers Minor Series 2, it will show the jacking points. My Series 2 has reconstructed jacking points at the rear but none at the front as far as I can tell, where the front inner wings/sills/A-posts have been rebuilt. If you don't mind waiting a few days I can post pics of rear jacking points, if they'll be of any help to you. (Not home until Thursday).

[Budgie]

Ah thanks palacebear that would be helpful as I don't have any literature to hand and seeing as it may not be want I want I don't see the point in buying something with the relevant info in it.

[SteveClem]

I think all the manuals can be found online?

[ianmack]

Early type jacking points, there you go. Personally I'd use a scissor jack under arm or axle for roadside wheel changes.

[Budgie]

Thanks for that Ianmack. Looks rather iffy though lifting a car like that .

[ianmack]

Iffy indeed, that's why they changed them. Even so the later ones aren't brilliant either.

On the early cars the jacking areas are likely to have been repaired and few people will have reinstated the jacking points. Going back to your original question about a possible purchase I wouldn't worry if the car you view has no jacking points, unless you want a concours example. My '54 has no jacking points. I use a trolley jack in the garage, with a scissor jack for road emergencies.

[Budgie]

Thanks again for that Ianmack. I just wanted to be sure that the car I'm going to be viewing hadn't been bodged .

[Budgie]

Ok following on from the very informative advice as is always given on here, I have spoken to the current owner of the minor in question and he states that the car had a "factory upgrade" on the engine to a" 803 A series engine " from new. Does this sound right. He stated that the head was changed from new from a 918 side valve to a 803 but keeping the original gearbox but an upgraded final drive ? Any advice on this would be most appreciated .Also how is the spare parts situation in relation to this model [1954] i.e. panels and mechanics ?

[palacebear]

Sounds to me like the seller may be confused. The 918cc sidevalve engine was fitted to the Minor series MM ( production ended Feb 1953). The Minor Series 2 (Feb 1953 to Sep/Oct 56) had the A-Series 803cc ohv engine as standard. The factory-fitted gearbox and final drive are also unique to the series 2 and many say they're rather low geared. May be worth confirming the engine number and chassis number with the seller. If its a Series 2 the engine number should have an APHM prefix unless a later or factory-recon engine has been fitted, both quite likely scenarios as a poorly-maintained Series 2 engine wouldn't last very long. My own Series 2 (1956) had a factory re-con Minor 1000 engine fitted in 1961 at 29,900 miles.

[Budgie]

Ah right I see thanks for that palacebear. In all fairness the seller did state that he was a bit confused when he was told that story which was relayed to him via the last owner. So from what you say , the 803 engine can prove troublesome if it hasn't be looked after? I am aware that they are apparently rather gutless so I'm wondering whether to go ahead with the viewing now !

[palacebear]

It depends on the asking price and what you want to do with the car. A Series 2 with 803 running gear is a great car for pottering about but IMHO its useless for long journeys and definitely not for motorway trips. The option exists to upgrade it mechanically. A 948cc engine, box and rear axle will make it a much nicer drive. They fit pretty much straight in and if you're seeking originality, its possible to modify the 948cc box to take the long 803cc gearlever. A 1098cc upgrade isn't quite as straightforward and uprated brakes would be advisable too. I would advise against simply upgrading the engine. You'll get a little acceleration improvement but the gearing will still hold the car back and the life expectancy of the Series 2 box will be lessened by the extra torque!

[Budgie]

Ok some food for thought then. I currently have a 1969 tourer So I'm spoilt a bit I suppose in comparison. It would only be used to tootle around the town just like my tourer .And it is rather expensive but it is a little cracker with a detailed engine bay, unleaded head, duplex chain , factory fitted heater no welding etc.

[palacebear]

My opinion, which other folk won't all agree with would be to keep it as original as possible. Split-screen cars are becoming rare and nice ones will, I think, soon be worth a good bit more than currently. If you're not going to do long/fast journeys, just keep it maintained well and enjoy it.
BTW the car in question isn't pale grey and in Worcestershire is it?

[myoldjalopy]

My opinion, which other folk won't all agree with would be to keep it as original as possible.

I tend to agree with that, especially if its just a fun run-around. However, if (like me) its your only car, then it may seem too slow - although an 803cc engine in good fettle isn't as bad as some make out, as long as you don't expect to cane it up the motorway. I decided to go the 948 route, but used a 'hybrid' gearbox using the tail of an 803 with a 948 box, so no chopping of the floor needed (as will be the case if you fit the 948 box with its remote shift tail). That way, the car looks original inside and can be returned to original in the future, if required (possibly by a future owner?). There are fewer original cars of any model now, especially the earlier versions, most have been adapted in some way, as you can see from looking at those for sale..............

[Budgie]

My opinion, which other folk won't all agree with would be to keep it as original as possible. Split-screen cars are becoming rare and nice ones will, I think, soon be worth a good bit more than currently. If you're not going to do long/fast journeys, just keep it maintained well and enjoy it.
BTW the car in question isn't pale grey and in Worcestershire is it?

No palacebear it's in sunny Wales ! I'm in two minds now as the fact of lack of power and possibly weak engine is putting me off .