You'll be supprised, but at the tender age of 33 ive never dabbled in stripping and I was looking for some advice.....
....... calm down children! Im on about paint!
I need to take my moggy, I assume, back to bare metel in preperation for new primer and paint.
Any advice on the best way to go about this would be greatly appreciated!
A Dummies Guide To Stripping
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Re: A Dummies Guide To Stripping
Grit blasted my shell for £600, including cleaning it out and painting it with etch primer and delivering it all back. Every single steel panel. Only useful if fully stripped.
Cardiff, UK
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Re: A Dummies Guide To Stripping
Why would you want to strip back all the paint off and expose metal that hasn't been touched by the moist air since the day it was first painted? Just wondering 

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Re: A Dummies Guide To Stripping
Great question!Budgie wrote:Why would you want to strip back all the paint off and expose metal that hasn't been touched by the moist air since the day it was first painted? Just wondering
Having never painted a car to any sort of acceptable standard before I just assumed going back to the original metal was the way to go... (the 'Dummy' part of the tiltle might be playing its hand now).
Ive only ever given a car and a light rub down and a going over with a roller.... and yes.... it looked terrible!
Ill take it from the comment that back to metel is not the way to go then ?
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Re: A Dummies Guide To Stripping
Well I suppose it depends on how bad the car is really. If it's just the odd bit of rust / unevenness here and there then surely just prepping the area affected would suffice as the rest of the paint work serves as an insitu protector as you just flatten / feather down the area around the affected patches. I'm no paint sprayer specialist and I'm sure someone will be along shortly to advise accordingly. 

Re: A Dummies Guide To Stripping
Its a very simple question,how many times has the car been re painted in the past,Its more then acceptable to do it twice,but after that the paint thickness becomes a problem and on the third time you can get all sorts of problems sinkage and lifting etc. Also as the metal expands and contracts in the sun the underlying paint cracks,and shows in the top cover as crazing.When I was involved in re painting(Family owner paint shop) we used to strip a small area to see how many layers there were and advise owner accordingly . There is of course the option of just top coating after a good flatting,blowing over as its called.And two pack paint helps. Having stripped a few cars over the years ,I can tell you that there is more work than you can imagine and you will be surprised at the amount of dust and rubbish that's left,I used to use nitromors paint stripper but that's no use anymore as its been re formulated (Health and safety) and doesn't now do much of a job.Depends what sort of a finish you want,showroom concours ...then strip, just acceptable then flat it down fill and sort out blemishes then Blow over with two pack (as long as you have the proper safety equipment, its a bit nasty stuff) or use celly and chance a bit of sinkage round repairs. Glad I'm not involved in it anymore



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Re: A Dummies Guide To Stripping
In my case it was all about the question of what was under the existing paint. Microblisters, peeling edges, pitted floorpans etc meant it was better to start with a bare panel with zero corrosion rather than covering over.
Cardiff, UK