spigot bush fit

[jagnut66]

Hi,
Has anyone else on here experienced problems with the fit of replacement spigot bushes? The new one I bought would not fit in the back of the engine, which in turn means the gearbox will not go home and mate up on the back plate.
It fitted over the first motion shaft with ease but was simply too thick to fit in the engine, in the end I tapped it home, reasoning I can pry it back out like I did the original. Naturally the gearbox will still not go in...... so I will have to prise it out and replace it.................. what a palaver!
As far as I can see there was no difference in the size of these bushes through 803, 948, 1098 engines, at least they seem to be advertised as one size fits all, or am I mistaken in this. I got this one from a well known major supplier in Birmingham...... so I will be quizzing them first thing tomorrow morning but I don't want to buy another and find that doesn't fit either!
I would have left the original in place but I needed to align the new clutch and it looked worn. I wonder if 'new old stock' would be better?......
Many thanks in advance for any advice on this issue.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[edd_barker]

Not 100% what the problem is, it only has to go over the end of the first motion shaft? Are you sure it's tapped fully home in the crank tail?

I would imagine it has deformed slightly when tapping it in, if you did not have a correctly sized shaft with shoulder to drift it home. I didn't! I used an old 1st motion shaft to check fit, tapping that in may well reshape the bush enough to fit. It's only bronze I think so quite soft. Can't use old shaft to tap home as the shoulder is sloped so deforms the bush even more. I used a socket, and then the shaft to reshape. Worked fine, no noise.

Edd

[philthehill]

The first motion shaft in the rear of the crankshaft should be made from self lubricating Oilite material.
http://www.bowman.co.uk/products/oilite
Straight bronze is devoid of self lubricating qualities.

Care must be taken when removing the old bush and especially when fitting the new bush.
Whilst there is little if any details in the Minor workshop manual regarding the removal and refitting of the first motion shaft the BL Marina/Ital workshop manual especially the section relating to the 1098cc engine goes into great detail as regards the removal and refitting of the bush and states for the fitting of the bush:-

'Fit the new spigot bush, ensuring that the (outer) end is flush with the crankshaft counterbore'

When fitting - a drift the same diameter as the first motion shaft but with a square shoulder to sit against the outer end of the spigot bush must be used to ensure that deforming of the bush is eliminated.

The Marina workshop manual gives the part numbers of the special tools used in the extraction and replacement of the spigot bush and they are:-18G284, 18G284 AAF& 18G1333.
Whilst they are special tools for production and main workshop use - it can be seen from the workshop manual illustration that with a bit of ingenuity the tools can be made from items found in the majority of home workshops.

Note:
The BL Marina/Ital workshop manual is far better in giving details of repairs, maintenance and replacing parts and is well worth the money and is a useful supplement/companion to the Minor workshop manual.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morris-Marina ... Sw3v5YsWQD
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MORRIS-MARINA ... Sw4shX8kai
Both the Marina car or van workshop manual can be used. I have both and use both for repair detail in conjunction with the Morris Minor workshop manual.

[Mark Wilson]

You've talked about prising the bush out, but if you wanted to minimise damage you could use the good old bread trick. Pack moist bread crumbs down the centre of the bush, tap in a close fitting length of wooden dowel or the like, and hey presto the hydraulic pressure pushes the bush out.

[Sleeper]

..or use grease and the above method..

John

[kennatt]

if you have just tapped it in and it was a tight fit ,but was ok of 1st motion shaft,then probably all you have done is to burr over the outer end, could you not carefully smooth off the damaged end to form a taper,so that the shaft slides in ok . a small round file would probably do it. Worth a try first.

[jagnut66]

Hi,
Reamed out with a drill -- by hand -- in the end, though it was still fun to get it to slide into place. Did in the end though and now bolted in place.
The top and bottom locating pegs also needed their respective holes to be very slightly enlarged to get the casing to fit in place properly though, which is odd, as it is a 1098 box to a 1098 back plate.............
I've never had these problems before, maybe I have been lucky up till now??
Thanks and best wishes,
Mike.

[jagnut66]

PS: I have now acquired a 1000 rear axle casing.
£19.99 plus £12 postage on eBay, so I'm quite happy with that.

[philthehill]

There are different sized gearbox locating dowels fitted to the 'A' Series engine and sometimes it is necessary as you have found out to enlarge the dowel hole to enable the gearbox to mate with the engine.
Well done on the axle casing purchase .
Check the spring seats on the axle casing for corrosion when you receive the axle casing as the spring seats are prone to rotting out in that area especially if the crud has not been washed out from between the seat and axle casing on a regular basis.

[philthehill]

Duplicate post deleted

[jagnut66]

Thanks Phil,
They look good in the photos but I will give it a clean up / refurb / repaint before fitting up anyway. Hopefully from the photos no welding will be required but I suppose I won't know for sure until I receive it.
As has been said before, it seems really quiet on here without Roy.............. I meant to go up and see him at the preserved railway where he worked, it was even muted in conversation but I left it too late, if there is life beyond then hopefully I will meet him for a good chinwag there.
Best wishes,
Mike.