oil leak after rebuild !"$&**??**

[Budgie]

Well I took my tourer for a long spin today, the first time since the engine / gearbox rebuild and to my dismay she still drips oil but not half as much as before the strip down [not that it was a lot in the first place]. It seems to be coming from the sump half round gaskets although I haven't had a good look but at least she's not dripping as much as before ....which wasn't a great deal anyway.

[ampwhu]

rear of the engine?

[orb596]

Of course there's an oil leak - it's a Morris! These leaks were put in at the factory as a rust preventative measure!

[Budgie]

My first and second minors never leaked oil though! It's from the area where the half round cork sump gasket is ,I renewed all the relevant gaskets upon rebuilding so I find this rather frustrating but like I said it's not a great deal and better than pre rebuild and even pre rebuild it wasn't that bad as it just dripped for a short while after parking her up following a trip out and about.

[ampwhu]

Of course there's an oil leak - it's a Morris! These leaks were put in at the factory as a rust preventative measure!

mine doesn't leak, never has since I rebuilt the engine in 2010.

[Declan_Burns]

Budgie,
I gave up on those cork seals many years ago. I then fitted the rubber seals and that solved the problem. It is worth a try.
Regards
Declan

[philthehill]

Declan
If I remember correctly the rubber seals used are from the 1275cc engines (Front Pt No: TAM1171 & Rear Pt No: TAM1089 (MOSS)).
They will require shortening and the wire inside the seal cutting.
If they are the ones used can you provide details regarding the fitment.
I cannot find a supplier who has rubber seals available without modification for direct fitting to the 948cc/1098cc engine sump.
If you are aware of a supplier can you please post a link.
Regards
Phil

[Declan_Burns]

Phil,
That is correct. They are from the 1275 engine and those are the correct part numbers. They are slightly oversize and need trimming back for the 948/1098 sump and there is a reinforcing wire cast in which needs to be cut with a hacksaw. It only takes a few minutes to trim them. I am also not aware of any supplier who provides rubber seals which are a direct fit.
Regards
Declan

[Budgie]

Interestingly when I removed the sump there was rubber seals insitu. I did try and locate a supplier but to no avail so as time was of the essence I resorted to the cork version and I now seem to be paying the price !

[philthehill]

Derclan
Many thanks for confirming the source of the rubber sump seals.
I have to say that I have never had any difficulty with the cork seals and continue to use them in preference to the rubber seals.
I believe that the secret with the cork seals is to soak in engine oil over night, ensure that the length is right, smother the seal grooves in grease and ensure that the ends of the cork seal are equidistant above the sump so that when compressed it makes an oil tight seal.
The side gaskets should be smeared in grease and fitted to the block before offering up the sump.
Progressive tightening of the sump bolts should be the norm which helps bed the cork seals.
Regards
Phil

[David W.]

I like to put a dollop of something, gasket cement, hylomar, silicone, where the three parts come together. Two seal halves and cork pan gasket.

[philthehill]

Everyone to their own - but have to say that if there is a need for some form of extra sealant the sump seals are not being fitted correctly or at worst there is something wrong with the sump.
BMC never had any need for additional sealant when building the 'A' Series and they built several million.
Adding sealant as a belt and braces solution to avert a possible sump seal/cork leak/weep should be considered a no no.
Phil

[RobThomas]

I have a cast iron 1098 sump here if anyone wants a sturdier sump pan. That ain't ever gonna leak!