Help for old Newbie please

[philthehill]

Dave
Even if you never get round to purchasing a Minor overhauling and repairing the 'A' Series engine and gearbox is very therapeutic.
Once overhauled there is a ready market for an 'A' Series in good condition and you can then go onto the next engine / gearbox.
Whatever you do to the engine / gearbox take lots of photos and keep details of what you have done to the engine / gearbox.
I can see a little retirement side line coming along nicely
Phil

[davecopp]

Still hoping someone can give me the dimensions (height and length) of a 1089 engine and gearbox combined ... please.
Dave

[davecopp]

I agree entirely Phil and thanks for the advice on photos and notes.

[philthehill]

Dave
The dimensions of a fully assembled 1098cc engine for the purpose of transportation are:-

Length.........................24"

Height .......................24"

Width.........................17"

Weight.......................Heavy - at least a two person lift.

The 1098cc gearbox measurements I will have to give from memory as I do not have one to hand but you will not go far wrong with these:-

Length.......................32"

Height........................20"

Width.........................17"

Weight.......................Light - an easy one person lift.
Note : Do not store the gearbox bell housing down as any crap will drain to the first motion shaft bearing - store horizontal.

I hope the above is of help
Phil

[davecopp]

Phil, you're a gentleman and a star. Thank you.

I've agreed to buy an engine and gearbox from someone in Scotland (yes, 8 hours away) which I'm picking up a week on Friday. I't's not quite as crazy as it sounds because I'm taking my daughter to see the Scotland v Wales rugby international that weekend in Edinburgh. Fortunately this engine/gearbox is only 40 miles away from Edinburgh.

So, to know that it will fit is a big weight off my mind (just in case I have problems dismantling it or the seller is pushed for time).

Also, thank you for the advice on storing the gearbox. I didn't know that and I have seen photos of people storing them upright.

Once again Phil, many thanks.

Dave

[philthehill]

Dave
To split the gearbox from the engine you will need a 1/2" A/F ring and 1/2" A/F open ended spanner.
Take plenty of old rag and a piece of board to put under the engine.
I would suggest that you take some rope to tie the engine in the upright position so as to stop it moving/falling over and spilling any oil.
Put the gearbox inside a large heavy dustbin liner - that will catch any oil that comes out of the rear end especially as the propshaft will not be fitted.
If you need to take the dynamo or manifold off the engine the A/F spanners mentioned above will do the job nicely.
If you have any other A/F spanners below 3/4" A/F take them with you not that you should need them but you can never have too many tools with you.

Enjoy the game - I wish I was going - though I have never played rugby it was my passion at one time and I did attend the Wales/England Centenary match at Cardiff Arms park and planted a real Welsh leek on the centre line after the match.
I originate from further west - Pembrokeshire. I used to go to Llangennech occasionally for work which is just down the road from Pontarddulais.
Happy days.
Phil

[Budgie]

Hi Phil,
Langennech is just up the road from me, I used to work in the old R.N. depot in the village.

[biomed32uk]

If I remember right I think the gearbox is about 23kg (ish), so an easy one person lift.

The engine is a two man lift, I drove back from Blackpool with one in the back of my estate car, knew it was there but nothing it couldn't handle. I would recommend draining the oil, lining the boot with a sturdy plastic sheet, take a few bits of wood, old sheets and a means of tying it down.

I think I had a lump of plywood sheet that would lay flat in the boot, with a ratchet strap underneath it to loop over the top of the engine. Layed the engine over onto the manifold side onto bits of wood / sheets and ratchet strapped it to the plywood. Almost forming a pallet and it didn't go anywhere on the journey back, no oil slick either due to it being drained out.

[davecopp]

Gosh it's a small world, taffys everywhere.

I've just got back from watching the Swans beat Leicester so I'm a jolly Jack at the moment, certainly a lot happier than yesterday after the rugby. Although I wasn't as downhearted as usual because I thought it was a fantastic match to watch. Congratulations to the English amongst us.

Anyway thank you Phil, Budgie and Biomed32uk for all your advice. It is noted and appreciated. Can't wait to go and get it now.

Dave

[davecopp]

When I get the engine I want to test run it so was looking on ebay and found the following:
4 wheel 360 degree steel engine cradle vehicle 450KG mechanic Hilka - £31.99. It says it's for storing and moving an engine. I just wondered - is there any reason it couldn't be used to run the engine also. If it's not suitable any thoughts on cheap alternatives would be welcome.
Thanks

[philthehill]

The engine stand is not suitable for running up the engine.
Here is a cheap suggestion.
Put the engine on a pallet tie it down with some ratchet straps - put a strips of wood all around the sump to stop the bottom end moving.
Rig up an exhaust silencer and fuel supply and using a S/H Minor radiator for cooling fire her up and enjoy.
Some times a running up rig comes up for sale on 'e' bay.
Phil

[davecopp]

Thanks Phil, that's a great idea.

I love this messageboard, it's like having your own personal mentor.

Phil, If you're ever back in this neck of the woods look me up so I can buy you a curry and a beer.

Dave

[philthehill]

Dave
That is very kind and I will bear that in mind.
And the same goes if you are in South Hampshire give me a look up.
Regards
Phil

[davecopp]

Cheers Phil. Will do.
Dave

[Blaketon]

Good luck with the project. I haven't looked at all the replies but I don't think you could go for a better car, in terms of taking on a project. An MGB or Midget would be good (I have these too) but without wishing to be morbid, as I get older, I consider the fact that the Morris is so easy to get in and out of; with the roof raised, the same with the Midget is an acquired art. They are all very well provided for in terms of spares. A saloon will be less of a challenge to restore, than a Traveller. I would place most emphasis on getting a good sound shell and when that's all good, get the mechanical bits done.

It might be worth mentioning that the 1275 Midget engine fits in, as well as a 1098, though I have often thought that twin carbs, on a 1098 (As was fitted to the Midget) would make for an easy extra 10 bhp.

I have had Britool spanners for years, as well as two of their torque wrenches. For smaller settings, I acquired a Sykes Pickavant 5 - 40Nm, which has given good service. That was on loan to my bike shop for many years but I have now taken it home and we use one of these at the shop now - https://www.cyclebasket.com/m23b0s711p3 ... que_Wrench - which works very well. It's 3/8 drive but we have a step up adapter to 1/2" drive.

I can't remember what make my socket set is; I used to buy most of my stuff in SB Motor Factors in Cardiff. The socket set was a 21st birthday present, that came from there (Metric, AF & BSW). I know it's German and it's given over thirty years of goo service. My father has a Britool socket set, that's over fifty years old and that seems to have the edge. I don't have a lot of cause to buy tools now but when I do, Elora seems to be good quality.

I have a Sealey engine stand and I recall that my engine crane came via Exchange & Mart. It's an Intec Hydrahoist and it uses a standard bottle jack to do the lifting. My father has a Hamer car lift and that uses a farm jack at each corner, so it's all quite simple and easy to repair. It will lift the car about four feet. I have got a set of DIY ramps, with hydraulic rams (CJ Autos) but the hydraulic rams are prone to leak and I wouldn't recommend them.

I'm not a user of digital verniers, though I have a couple of (Old fashioned) Draper verniers but when I want real accuracy, I reach for the micrometer.

[davecopp]

Hi Blaketon
Thanks for your comments and advice.

Ideally (assuming I'm successful with the engine) I would like to buy a convertible but I realise these are few and far between.

With regards to up-rating the engine I would be open to anything as long as it doesn't change the distinctive sound of the minor.

Thanks again

[Blaketon]

I think the raspberry in the exhaust is down to the system. My Traveller has an LCB manifold and straight through exhaust and sounds more like a Midget (It has a Midget engine but then haven't they all). I'm not sure whether twin carbs can be married up (Off the shelf so to speak) with a standard exhaust, as I'm sure the regular single carb set up is an all in one, combined inlet/exhaust manifold. I suspect most twin carb set ups will have non standard exhausts.

Some convertibles are known as chops, which means they are saloons, that have had the roof chopped off. Avoid these, unless done properly!!

[davecopp]

Thanks Blaketon. I'll watch out for the 'home made' convertibles as I am aware that the chassis should be strengthened if the top is cut off.

[SteveClem]

Some convertibles are known as chops, which means they are saloons, that have had the roof chopped off. Avoid these, unless done properly!![/quote]

If done properly,of course, they are absolutely fine and much cheaper than an original convertible.

[Budgie]

Dave,

I would have bought a post production convertible if it hadn't bought a genuine one .There's nothing wrong with a post convertible / chop moggy as long as it's done properly and there's a few ways to tell both visually and by checking the log book which should have MAT before the numbers on the chassis plate. And if you happen to see a Maroon B tourer tootling around Llanelli or even occasionally in Pontardulais garden centre as I often take a spin up there to top up my koi pond then that'll be me.