To the good people of the MMOC,
I am tackling the job of fitting the Closing Panel-Side To Floor panel (forgive me if incorrect) and question its position, or even if this panel is needed. Does the panel cover just the wood or the gap between the wood and the chassis as well? Any information would be gratefully received
Many Thanks,
Tom
Metal panels (Closing Panel-Side To Floor?)
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- Minor Friendly
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Metal panels (Closing Panel-Side To Floor?)
- Attachments
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- Panel3.jpg (197.39 KiB) Viewed 1981 times
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- With panel covering bottom of wood
- Panel2.jpg (171.6 KiB) Viewed 1981 times
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- Without panel present
- Panel1.jpg (180.41 KiB) Viewed 1981 times
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Metal panels (Closing Panel-Side To Floor?)
Some more pictured detailing the gap between the panel and the chassis
- Attachments
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- Panel6.jpg (141.31 KiB) Viewed 1980 times
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- Panel5.jpg (152 KiB) Viewed 1980 times
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- Panel4.jpg (152.07 KiB) Viewed 1980 times
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Re: Metal panels (Closing Panel-Side To Floor?)
That is a co-incidence!
My '69 Traveller had this item listed, amongst others, as a erheblicher Mangel (serious fault) by the TüV tester as he was able to poke through the rusted parts and made some nice holes in it. Just last week I got around to Tackling this. I had obtained a new part and was apprehensive about taking the old part off and welding on the new.
Having scraped off the underseal which revealed several Wood screw heads, I was pleasantly surprised that These came out relatively easily and the part could then be similarly easily prised off. So happily no cutting out or rewelding is necessary.
The new replacement part however, was narrower at one end than the existing and if it were to replace the old one, then a section of Wood underside would always then be exposed. It did seem to me that the purpose of the Piece is only to protect the Wood underside.
I have therefore decided not to use the new part but renovate the old using fibreglass and epoxy resin after first giving the Piece a thourough cleaning and usual anti-rust treatment. It is much easier doing this in the warmth of the Workshop on the bench that the minus 7 presently in my Garage.
Having then repaired, painted in gloss black, I applied Bitumen sealer to the Wood underside and then replaced the part using new screws. I will only later apply wax oil or underseal after the re-test so that the tester can probe and see that the part is not structural.
But to answer your question, I can only give my observance that the "flange" edges should be sealed against the existing floor Panels to prevent further water Ingress at this Point. This I did be squeezing Bitumen into the Joint both before and after replacing the part.
My '69 Traveller had this item listed, amongst others, as a erheblicher Mangel (serious fault) by the TüV tester as he was able to poke through the rusted parts and made some nice holes in it. Just last week I got around to Tackling this. I had obtained a new part and was apprehensive about taking the old part off and welding on the new.
Having scraped off the underseal which revealed several Wood screw heads, I was pleasantly surprised that These came out relatively easily and the part could then be similarly easily prised off. So happily no cutting out or rewelding is necessary.
The new replacement part however, was narrower at one end than the existing and if it were to replace the old one, then a section of Wood underside would always then be exposed. It did seem to me that the purpose of the Piece is only to protect the Wood underside.
I have therefore decided not to use the new part but renovate the old using fibreglass and epoxy resin after first giving the Piece a thourough cleaning and usual anti-rust treatment. It is much easier doing this in the warmth of the Workshop on the bench that the minus 7 presently in my Garage.
Having then repaired, painted in gloss black, I applied Bitumen sealer to the Wood underside and then replaced the part using new screws. I will only later apply wax oil or underseal after the re-test so that the tester can probe and see that the part is not structural.
But to answer your question, I can only give my observance that the "flange" edges should be sealed against the existing floor Panels to prevent further water Ingress at this Point. This I did be squeezing Bitumen into the Joint both before and after replacing the part.
Gott schütze mich vorm Sturm und Wind und Autos, die aus England sind.
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download/file.php?id=4822[/sig]
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Re: Metal panels (Closing Panel-Side To Floor?)
I always thought that this panel could have been designed much better. It neither keeps water out nor lets it drain away effectively.
Cardiff, UK
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Re: Metal panels (Closing Panel-Side To Floor?)
Thank you all for your replies, this panel does seem to be rather an afterthought and poorly implemented. Is there a recognised *fix* for this panel or will I have to live with the fact that if water gets in between the wood and panel ill have to take it off and let it dry every now and again?
Being the design it is I know this won't ever be perfect however I'd like it not to develop into a problem area. If the best way to tackle this is to get the Bitumen out then so be it!
Cheers,
Tom
Being the design it is I know this won't ever be perfect however I'd like it not to develop into a problem area. If the best way to tackle this is to get the Bitumen out then so be it!
Cheers,
Tom
Re: Metal panels (Closing Panel-Side To Floor?)
Hi
The closing panel should 'hook over' the downward pointing flange on the chassis and indeed is only held in place with the wood screws. The repair panels available as the one shown in your pic are unfortunately not the same as the original closure panels which had a more substantial tab at the front and a further wood screw to secure at the front and cover the space left at the bottom of the rear wing...
The pattern ones are ok if a load of sealant is used .
Taupe
The closing panel should 'hook over' the downward pointing flange on the chassis and indeed is only held in place with the wood screws. The repair panels available as the one shown in your pic are unfortunately not the same as the original closure panels which had a more substantial tab at the front and a further wood screw to secure at the front and cover the space left at the bottom of the rear wing...
The pattern ones are ok if a load of sealant is used .
Taupe
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Re: Metal panels (Closing Panel-Side To Floor?)
It looks as though it would be easier to make your own to fit !!