Thermostat housing studs

[New Bloke]

I eventually got the housing off using an old wood chisel I have no further use for and a bloody great hammer. What is left behind is 2.5 studs. The 2 will be okay I think, I can run a nut down them, but the half of one is problematical. I have tried a set of mole grips but no movement at all, just the metal of the stud deforms. I'm thinking of using heat but I only have a plumbers style blow torch, will this give me enough heat to make anything happen do you think?

Any help gratefully received.

Tim

[panky]

It's worth a go, but try soaking it in release oil over night first.

[New Bloke]

Cheers Panky, already did that, half a can of plus gas on it last night, mole grips wouldn't even touch it...

[mogbob]

Tim
It's worth a go ! I assume you've wire brushed ( on a drill ) the base of the stud / block junction and picked / scrapped out as much muck as you can around the bottom of the stud ? An offcut of a tin can , cut to size ,can be used to make a wrap around
shield , gutter shape. Hold with a pair of pliers, so it throws back the heat from the blowtorch onto the stud , to speed things up.
Other tips ... form a small circle of Blutac on the block around the stud to retain the Plusgas on it's overnight soak. Once set up , gently tap the side of the stud and hopefully see the level slowly fall.
If you've access to a MIG welder , weld a new nut to the broken stud ( stud metal cleaned up as much as possible to get a good
contact ) and unwind. The concentrated heat from the welder normally breaks the rust seal / grip.
Bob

[New Bloke]

Cheers Bob,

No access to a MIG, (haven't used mine in over 20 years so must be buggered up by now), but I'll do the rest of it, the bluetac idea sounds good.

Thanks

[kennatt]

you will find that welding is about your best bet,because if you try with mole grips or small pipe wrench there is a strong possibility that you will sheer the stud off at the base,then you will be drilling and tapping the head (not an easy job). I wouldn't risk it. Get your mig out weld a nut on ,it works every time. It would be even safer to pay someone with a mig to do it for you.

[New Bloke]

I'll have a look at the MIG tomorrow, but meanwhile I've built the plus gas dam and tomorrow I'll get 617 sdqrn to do their stuff.

Love this forum, great advice on here.

[panky]

+1 for the welded nut method. I got a broken exhaust stud with 1/4" left sticking out using the method, it also shifted some very stubborn door hinge counter sunk headed bolts on my camper. The heat it generates will shift most things.

[New Bloke]

Assuming I get it out tomorrow and fit a new stud and housing, I'm thinking of the following layers:
Cylinder head
Red hylomar
Gasket
Red hylomar
Housing

I have well seal if the hylomar isn't suitable. How does that sound?

[panky]

You shouldn't need any kind of sealant, just dont over tighten the nuts and put some copper grease on the studs and threads

[mogbob]

Tim
Panky's approach is endorsed. On the welding front... if it's been 20 + years.. a memory jogger...disconnect the car battery
and Alternator before hitting the welding torch trigger.
( When doing a long term restoration , you don't have anything electrical connected anyway normally ) I have a memory jogger
" note " attached to my machine. What's the expression...memory like a sieve ! Classics throw up enough problems of their own without making more.
Bob

[New Bloke]

Cheers guys, off to machine mart today to get a cheapy MIG

Is there really no sealant between the faces, I would be happier with just a smear, it won't do any harm will it?

[panky]

Wont do any harm but if the faces are flat and clean then no sealant should be needed

[New Bloke]

Thanks, I shall put it on without, otherwise no point in asking for advice is there?

[panky]

Good man But stand well back when you start it up, you don't want to get covered in coolant

[New Bloke]

Thanks guys, bought the cheapest MIG I could find on Machine Mart and welded a nut on, then welded it again as it fell off. Then ....brilliant, out she spun.

Thanks again guys, what a great resource this forum is....

[mogbob]

Tim
Have you got a new stud FIX113 ,nut FIX139 , gasket 10M221 ( ESM references ) to rebuild now ?
Well done.
Bob

[New Bloke]

Unfortunately I was sent the wrong studs but they are sending new ones so I get them tomorrow, hopefully they will turn up in time for me to get it going and back on the road. My Son scraped off the remains of the old gasket with a sharp chisel and the head now has some light scratches on it. Because of that I WILL put a blob of hylomar under the gasket.
Tim