Master Cylinder - Removal

[Arfron]

Gave up with the big screwdriver system . Couln't get enough force to depress the torsion bar- also the driver kept slipping.

Solution: get hold of a No. 8 G cramp (woodwork type ) Use a bit of 3x2 and various blocks between th chassis and the outer sill. Position cramp directly under and between the two bolts; turn the thumb-screw , needs a bit of foce ! You can pop out the both bolts in one go . No need to go from one bolt to the other with drivers , bars etc . It really works like a dream !!

Hope that this helps you with a difficult process ( or could be !! )

All th best. Arfron

[Cam]

Excellent solution Arfron!

but just a quick note, this is a perfect method for standard torsion bars, however if you have uprated bars (like my 100% uprated ones) then they don't deflect at all!! so, you still have to remove them.

[Arfron]

I found the system very useful . I agree , if you have the upgraded torsion bars you would have to remove them. Anyway thanks for the note .I hope folk may find the method useful ?

Regards Arfron ( ps. I like your little bloke changing gear )

[Cam]

I like your little bloke changing gear

That's what you get for idly browsing the internet when you should be working!

[Arfron]

Mmmm ! Naughty !

Regards Arfron

[Jefftav]

I gave up with slipping screwdrivers, crowbars and expletives when my mate let me borrow a simple tool which I'm sure could be made by someone. It has a half pipe to rest on the torsion bar with a piece of threaded rod welded on, a short threaded coupling and a flat plate to rest against the top of the chassis rail not the floor. Turn the threaded coupling up towards the flat plate with a spanner (threaded rod & coupling need to be same thread) and the torsion bar gets pushed down and the bolts can be slid out easily and 1/2hr job with this tool. I can email pictures if anyone wants more details. This probably wouldn't work on the upgraded torsion bars but might be worth a try!