Hello: Valve guide removal/install tool

[Darren.]

Hello all.
This is my first ever post so I thought i must introduce my self.Ive been a member of the mmoc owner club for almost a year but never posted yet and come to think of it not much driving either lol. Im form Burnley in sunny Lancashire.

Right here goes then....Where will i get a valve guide removal tool from or will just a drift do.Any advice and pitfalls to watch will be also noted.
Thanks for now

[philthehill]

There is no commercially made valve guide removal tool.
The specification of the valve guide drift is given in the BMC wksp manual Section AA19.
You will either have to get one made up or make one yourself to the BMC specification.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[oliver90owner]

Clearly the tool PTH shows is a 'drift'. I usually think hammer where a drift is concerned. Pressing them out is a far better option than bumping them out. Nothing special about that tool, only possibly hardened. Easy to make, easy to use with a press and better for the guide bores if the guides are under controlled pressure, than impacts, on replacement.

The more technical aspect of guide renewal is that of reaming to size and recutting the valve seats, I would suggest.

[bmcecosse]

I had one for sale a week ago - as part of a 'lot' - but it's sold now. Any machine shop will make one up for you. You will also need a means of 'reaming' out the guides after fitting as they sometimes tighten up on installation. I simply used a new 'fine ground' quality drill bit of the correct size - never used for drilling, just kept for this job. The valves DO need a little clearance in the guides - must NOT be tight, and of course use the latest guides with the locating groove to take the 'top hat' seals on the inlet guides ONLY.

[Darren.]

Hmmm well thanks for the replys chaps.Not sure if im going to tackle the job now.I have been put off by the reaming prospect.I just thought i could insert the guides carefully and not have to ream them out. I have no pillar drill.Thing is its expencive to have a machine shop do the work concidering that its cheap to buy the parts

[philthehill]

The valve guide extractor is only non hardened mild steel so nothing special about the metal.
Do not be put off doing the job - If you are careful you can fit the valve guide without recourse to reaming the valve guide.
It is most important though that the valve seats are cut relative to the valve guide.
It is not expensive to get a machine shop to do the job relative to the improved engine performance and reduced oil consumption.
Here is a link to Oselli engineering services and they are at the top of the scale of charges so aim for charges that are lower.
http://www.oselli.com/service/engineeri ... nditioning.
If you fit the later valve guide (with the top hat seal) they are slightly longer than those fitted to the 948/1098cc engines - so fit one at a time using the adjacent valves guides to get the top of the guide at the right height. The extra protrusion into the inlet/exhaust tracts will not effect performance.
Over many years I have driven the old valve guides out and the new guides in without any trouble. Since obtaining a hydraulic press I now press them out and press them in using the original tool.
As bmc says use a suitable drill to ensure that any burring is removed.
Phil

[Darren.]

Nice one Phil. Just might have a go then. In any case if the guides bugger up its not cost much

[panky]

A mate of mine turned one up for me. The guides came out with some vigorous application of a big hammer, unfortunately no press to hand I put the bag of new guides into the freezer for an hour before fitting and they tapped in a lot more easily, no damage to them either so no reaming needed
On a recommendation on here I got my guides from Mini Spares along with the seals made for the later MPI engines, a bit more expensive but they're supposed to be worth it.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... ssic/valve guides.aspx|

[bmcecosse]

It's just a case of running the drill through the guide if the valve seems tight - hardly difficult. Hand drill gun is fine - it's only going to shave off a tiny amount of metal..... New guides go in much more easily if the head is warmed in an oven and the guides put in the freezer.

[Darren.]

Brilliant advice there chaps. Im definately going to have a bash " well not to much bashing anyway".Mini Sport in Padiham is only a short distance from me so thats where i will be getting bits from.

Glad I decided to start posting now your a bunch of great chaps

[philthehill]

Mini Sport of Padiham used to and may still do head work including replacing valve guides and cutting valve seats.
They replaced an un-leaded valve seat for me a few years back whilst I waited.
Their location in the old T.A. Centre used to be a regular calling point for me when I lived up north.
They used to then have a very good selection of S/H tuning equipment for sale at very reasonable prices.
Phil

[Darren.]

Phil they are still at the old TA centre. The place has been done up over the years. I called in a few weeks ago and enquired about just having the seats and guides done and the reply from the guy behind the counter said " after you have bought the bits and pieces it will be cheaper to have a full reacon done". HMMMMM I dont think so.Maybe i talked to the wrong chap who knows. Anyway ive decided to do it myself. Tomorrow im going with the parts list heh heh let the fun begin

[alex_holden]

Darren, if you run into trouble drop me a PM. I'm not on the forum much any more but can probably help out. I'm sure I've got a home-made drift somewhere in the garage and quite possibly a reamer too. Not to mention several complete spare heads in various states of repair...

[Darren.]

Alex thank you very much for your kind offer.Trouble is I have not been on here often recently and not seen your post DOH!

To update.....A couple of valve seats were very badly pitted. I tried to clean them with sand paper pushed onto a valve etc etc but could not get this to work for me. Would have taken forever. Ive now taken the plunge and took the head to Mini Sport for a full recon with unleaded seats. Will keep you updated

Thanks again Alex

[philthehill]

I hope that you asked them to fit the later type valve guides and top hat seals which should only be fitted to the inlet valves.
Phil

[Darren.]

Yes the guides with the notches in and the cup type seals.

[bmcecosse]

'Sandpaper' is no good for the valve seat clean up job - it needs to be emery paper or similar 'robust' abrasive - and of course spun with an electric drill gun. That DOES work, very well indeed.

[Darren.]

Picked the head up today and looks like new. Fingers crossed the compression readings will be good otherwise i might just have a mental breakdown lol. I normally do things DIY so for me splashing out this sort of cash is a tramah. I rationalised my dillema and thought.....Head done professionaly and unleaded then it would be peace of mind and will last my lifetime usage heh heh.Im keen to find out but also dreading doing it to find out bore or ring wear. Bores look good so here is hopeing

[philthehill]

Well done

[Darren.]

UPDATE Fitted the head today and i can not describe how exited and happy i feel at this moment. So far I have fitted the head and set the valve clearances. No manifold connected and done a compression test with cold engine.

cyl 1 180
cyl 2 180
cyl 3 175
Cyl 4 170

Prior to this work being done on the head the readings with a warm engine and an oil squirt in the bores were

Cyl 1 180
Cyl 2 110
cyl 3 128
cyl 4 175

I have not yet connected the manifold or plumbed up the cooling system.
I just hope that my torque wrench is in calibration and the head gasket holds up.


At the moment im feeling so happy to realize the bores are not buggerd.
Im sure you guys appreciate these feelings heh heh.

Will keep you posted when i plumb it all up and fire it