Need some help on Full Steel Traveller from South America

[camiloromano]

It's been a while since I first uploaded photos of my traveller which by the way its got a full steel body handmade in my country, Uruguay, don't really know if this was an unique job or i haven't seen any other yet. Well my moggi runs a 803 APHM , which i think its a series 2 right? i realized when the water pump broke that the rest of moggi pumps don't work, also I have a S.U. H1 that i'm having trouble with, it works well most of the time but some times suddenly it stops accelerating and I put the foot to the metal and it accelerates a bit and stops, subsequently till it starts working well again or it shuts down. Maybe its time to put another carb, which one would you recommend o would you recommend to still trying to fix it, i've been running the same carb for 3 years now but this never happened before, another thing is that is too rich and the sparks came off with a lot of carbon, not oil, just black carbon, this has been happening to me since i've got the car, i tried some "spacers" (dont know how to call em in english, sorry im spanish native) between the sparks and engine but still "breaks" the sparks (i have to change sparks every day) if i fix the carb is this stopping? here im posting some photos of my baby, cheers, and thanks if you can help me.

[Oldmogman]

Hola Camilo

If your sparkplugs (las bujias) are black with carbon I wonder if your air filter is blocked/dirty? Mesh ones can be cleaned with petrol but the paper type need to be replaced.

If that's OK, you can check the fuel/air mixture by lifting the piston inside the carb about 8mm with a small screwdriver - if the revs increase a lot, it is too rich; if the revs drop, it is too weak; if the revs increase a little, it is correct. You weaken the mixture by turning the big brass nut under the carb to the left (like loosening a nut), and richen it by turning to the right (like tightening a nut).

But before you think about fitting a new carb, it may help to take the old carb apart and make sure everything is clean.

Not sure what you mean when you say your sparkplugs 'break' - do you mean as in 'romperse'? Is that why you are fitting spacing washers between the sparkplug and engine? Or do you mean they stop working because they are covered in carbon?

[simmitc]

It sounds as though it is running too rich. Is the choke coming off OK, or is it stuck with the jet down? The adjuster nut is screwed UP for weaker and DOWN for richer.

[panky]

Also check that there's oil in the dashpot.
Fantastic car by the way

[samuria]

what a nice moggy... wish they had them over here like that.
hope you get her running well soon

[John Naylor]

Lovely bodywork!
Is it possible that the float/ jet is sticking open and flooding fuel through. I would suggest getting a rebuild kit and stripping the SU as they can be made almost as new and perform so well.

[camiloromano]

Hola Camilo

If your sparkplugs (las bujias) are black with carbon I wonder if your air filter is blocked/dirty? Mesh ones can be cleaned with petrol but the paper type need to be replaced.

If that's OK, you can check the fuel/air mixture by lifting the piston inside the carb about 8mm with a small screwdriver - if the revs increase a lot, it is too rich; if the revs drop, it is too weak; if the revs increase a little, it is correct. You weaken the mixture by turning the big brass nut under the carb to the left (like loosening a nut), and richen it by turning to the right (like tightening a nut).

But before you think about fitting a new carb, it may help to take the old carb apart and make sure everything is clean.

Not sure what you mean when you say your sparkplugs 'break' - do you mean as in 'romperse'? Is that why you are fitting spacing washers between the sparkplug and engine? Or do you mean they stop working because they are covered in carbon?

I meant that they stop working or the spark turns yellow , i haven't checked the air filter, never, so i will do it. About the fuel air mixture i have tried almost every combination, now its working better luckily thanks to the owners manual, i realised i miss the jet regulator, that might be my problem im going to fabricate one and see if it improves, i've been using the car the whole day, i changed the pistons to std nearly 2 months ago( when i bought it , it had oversize 0.3 ) but i havent used it till this weekend for a car meeting, so it has less than 300kms haha im taking it easy. thanks for your help !

[camiloromano]

Lovely bodywork!
Is it possible that the float/ jet is sticking open and flooding fuel through. I would suggest getting a rebuild kit and stripping the SU as they can be made almost as new and perform so well.

Its really hard and expensive to get one of those in this part of the world, i wanted to buy pistons 6months ago and they were worth what i paid for the whole car, shipping is too expensive.

[camiloromano]

It sounds as though it is running too rich. Is the choke coming off OK, or is it stuck with the jet down? The adjuster nut is screwed UP for weaker and DOWN for richer.

it comes off ok, i weakened the mixture and i'm testing it, because it worked pretty well most of the time except for that occasions so now i will use it as usual and see

[POMMReg]

Converted LCV, not Traveller.

Any chance of the chassis & cab number please?

Chris

[camiloromano]

Converted LCV, not Traveller.

Any chance of the chassis & cab number please?

Chris

That's true, its a quarter ton van, actually at the time in my country cars didnt have to pay taxes if they weren't complete, so this came to here from the doors to front and nothing else in the body, the rest was handmade by a company called Paris Niza which almost immediatly turned to fabricate race cars instead of family wagons

[Andy W]

Converted LCV, not Traveller.

Any chance of the chassis & cab number please?

Chris

That's true, its a quarter ton van, actually at the time in my country cars didnt have to pay taxes if they weren't complete, so this came to here from the doors to front and nothing else in the body, the rest was handmade by a company called Paris Niza which almost immediatly turned to fabricate race cars instead of family wagons

Very interesting & a very cool looking Minor!

[plumby74]

Great-looking and DIFFERENT car you have!

Did you get your running problems fixed? It was all good advice given to check the air-filter, then the fuel mixture. One or all of those adjustments would make a dramatic difference to how the car performs.

Any small parts can also be sourced from over here in Australia, as this country and New Zealand were big markets for the earlier cars, when lots needed to be exported. I may even have a Series 2 carby, or parts if you need them.

[camiloromano]

Hey guys, i wanted to share more photos with you, and I though that i fixed it but the problem with the carb still the same, this time i changed all the springs and washers, and as i was taking sparkplugs with black dry carbon i also changed the jet so it drinks less gas, the first day was awesome, no gas smell, great running, but then day 2 started the problem again , i realized the needle was stuck and that was probably the same problem i been having lately, what do i have to do to avoid the needle getting stuck? do i have to change the needle, it didnt happen often, its just sometimes dont know why that happens, at first you press the accelerator and it wont accelerate and then if it doesnt fix itself she wont turn on again. thanks for all the help, i cleaned the carb, the air filter everything is fine except for that.

[plumby74]

It sounds now as if you may not have centred the jet, so that the new/changed needle is sticking and not sliding smoothly as you accelerate.

The SU carby is usually pretty simple and reliable, once set-up correctly. Do you have details of how to overhaul one (from the Workshop Manual), or can I scan you those instructions?

Excellent further photos The Club records person (POMMReg) does still want you to send him the Engine and Body numbers of your car, as shown on the alloy plate on the bulkhead.

[camiloromano]

It sounds now as if you may not have centred the jet, so that the new/changed needle is sticking and not sliding smoothly as you accelerate.

The SU carby is usually pretty simple and reliable, once set-up correctly. Do you have details of how to overhaul one (from the Workshop Manual), or can I scan you those instructions?

Excellent further photos The Club records person (POMMReg) does still want you to send him the Engine and Body numbers of your car, as shown on the alloy plate on the bulkhead.

i've just changed the jet , the needle still the same, everything i've done to the car was according to the owners manual, i'm going to look further to how to center the jet, thanks !, and this is a photo of the plate

[tortron]

Very nice bodywork, I think I saw only 2 morris minors in all of the Americas, one being a clapped out traveller in LA. Mostly old Renaults and a few old jeeps in Patagonia, along with a split screen VW single cab next to a shack in Peru, the farmer could probably retire wealthy if he sold that!. If you had posted this a year ago I would have come to visit!

You can easily centre the needle to the piston by loosening the nut, then raising and dropping the needle and piston, while slowly retightening the nut.





lo siento, mi español es oxidado, igual que mi coche

[POMMReg]

Thanks for numero info, odd the "EX" tag is UNDER the chassis plate.

Any chance of the cab number too please?

If an LHD, at the top of the drivers' side firewall, long thin tag. (xZ1???? C?????x)

Thanks

[camiloromano]

It's been a while since I don't log in, I can't see all the pictures I uploaded about the build, it went through various changes since my first post, I'll try to find all those pictures to show you. About the carb I changed it for a Solex H30 which works smoothly, 0 problems now,


This is how I found it first place (2013), two blocks away from my shop. The engine was disassembled then.




That same year I painted it black. (That had nothing to do with the rolling stones haha)



In 2014 I went through a rust free stage. (By then I had broken 3 or 4 gearboxes and I tell you, here there are few minors which made the task of finding replacements very hazardous, plus everybody confuses minors with oxfords that resulted in a incredible waste of time).




And that finally resulted on Imperial Green paintjob and this is how it still looks, after all these years I decided to switch to a gm gearbox which I'm currently working on.

[POMMReg]

Cab number too please.

Cab numbers applicable to UK built Minor's.

By deducting its chassis number - 500 from 36871 = 36371 - then 500 from it's CAB number, whatever the difference will be - after taking out GPO vans - CKD LCVs.