Various

Post by **murray33** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 9:07 pm

Thanks to everyone for the tips on ignition timing, she started up first turn, I just removed the dizzie drive and put it back in in a different position. Any tips on strobe timing as there is the odd mis-fire. Also, I think i've got the 2 heater pipes the rite way round but not 100% sure (the one to the heater tap and the other one).
Thanks again

Post by **ColinP** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 8:41 am

Murray,

Have a quick search for ignition timing - there have been a couple of long(ish) discussions recently.

As for the heater pipes, Cam's website (or Potteries site) has some good photos of the engine space - picture much clearer than me describing it~!

Colin

Post by **Cam** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:13 am

Links on signature!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 8:42 pm

Just advance the timing till it 'pinks' - then back it off slightly. That's the optimum setting - provided it doesn't 'kick' against the starter when cold!! If it does - back it off a wee bit more - but really for best performance you are then needing to modify the advance stop inside the dizzy.

Post by **Alec** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 8:00 am

Hello Murray,
two points about strobe timing, disconnect the vacuum advance line because at idle that will be giving extra advance and check the mechanical advance specification so you don't set the idle speed higher than the speed the distributor starts to advance the timing. There is sometimes a strobe setting quoted which could be different than the static setting.
You may want to carry out the 'seat of the pants' method BE suggested and then strobe it to see what figure you get. Make a note of that (and the idle speed) so you can quickly adjust the timing when doing distributor maintenance, saves all the road setting in future. I would be wary about modifying the advance stops as it is difficult to judge the best setting unless on a dynamometer.

Alec

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 8:05 pm

Indeed - the advance stop cutting is only usually needed when running a longer period cam. Modern engines have 'knock' sensors - and so they constantly adavance the timing till it knocks then back off - many times per second - to keep the timing 'just' below the knock (or pink) point. And of course it does this all through the rev range. We have to make do with what the good people at Lucas gave us !