Camber correction

[Chazbee]

I know that previous posts have discouraged the use of C washers on the eyebolt to achieve camber correction due to possible water ingress corroding the chassis leg but would'nt it be possible to seal it with external grade silicone or something similar? Assuming I was fitting a C washer,would I just disconnect the tie bar,loosen the eyebolt nut and lever the whole suspension leg out and slip the washer in? I realise that fitting a solid washer would be best but I'm disabled so have to pay my local garage to do my work so any reduction in hours is welcome!

[bmcecosse]

I guess so - just do a good job of it - gutter sealant, something like that. You do then need to reset the tracking of course.

[Chazbee]

Thanks for the reassurance- are the washers available to buy? - if not can you tell me the diameter of the eyebolt shank please.
If I need more spacing than the "free" thread on the eyebolt would it be OK to turn a couple of mm off the nut?

[IslipMinor]

Why do you need to change the camber angle? For a standard ride height car, there is usually enough thread on the eye bolt to adjust the camber, it's only when the car is lowered by more than ~1", that the eye bolt thread is not long enough.

The 'C' washer part number is 183471-Z, but I do not know if it is available today, as it can cause serious corrosion problems in a rather important part of the car! ESM only list full washer/spacers.

This is from the Workshop Manual:
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The eye bolt shank is 11/16" (0.6875") diameter, and the thread is 9/16" BSF. I would not reduce the nut thickness on a highly stressed item.

The picture below shows the front suspension using all the available thread on the standard eye bolt, with a single thread showing beyond the nut. Since then I have made some special 'negative camber' eye bolts to give around 1° of negative camber.

[Chazbee]

I'm doing my homework before getting the camber checked and corrected if necessary. I've only owned the car for a few weeks and a recent invoice which came with it suggested that after replacing most of the nsf suspension components (no info as to why) they were unable to get the correct camber reading - I suspect the previous owner was too traumatised by the size of his bill to authorise any more work!
If I "waterproof the C washer as I suggest above don't you think that will be OK?

[les]

If I may butt in, the C washer could be sealed but the effectiveness of the seal would always be in doubt. Like underseal and silicone products they do loose adhesion. Sympathise with the extra work involved though!

[IslipMinor]

In the early 1970's we did fit a special, thick 'C' washer to both sides of the front suspension to correct the camber angle, when the car was lowered after fitting 'wide wheels and radial ply tyres'!

When I stripped the car in 1992 to begin the restoration, I was horrified at the internal state of the chassis legs, despite MOT repair work over the years. Easy for me to say, but I would not use 'C' washers anywhere.

What has been replaced on the front suspension that would cause the camber angle to be wrong? Is the ride height standard?

Do you have some pictures, including the engine bay where the front dampers are attached?

[bmcecosse]

First move I think will be to measure the camber. Who did the previous work Wares by any chance?? If you are not able to do the dismantling - then I don't see a problem with C washers and good thick/black/gutter sealant. Just cut a slot in a normal washer to make a 'C' washer! More of a 'U' washer really.

[Chazbee]

No – not Wares! According to the invoice the eyebolt was siezed in the chassis leg so it looks like they cut a section of the leg out to release it and then welded it back together! Looks to be a decent welding job but obviously did'nt get it back in exactly the right place. Next step is getting a camber gauge on it and establish exactly what I'm dealing with. The car drives very well by the way. I think I'll be happy to use suitably weatherproofed U washers - I'll only be doing low mileages in decent weather ie. no salt, and the car is garaged.

[Mark Wilson]

Don't like the sound of that too much. The eyebolt fits into a tube and strengthening assembly inside the chassis leg. If they've welded in part of a replacement section that would be included, but if they've just replaced the outer steel wall I'd be worried about the strength of the assembly. You can see the strengthening tube assembly if you remove the gearbox cover and shine a torch down the chassis leg.

Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs....

[philthehill]

That eye bolt must have been seriously seized in the chassis tube to have to result in cutting the chassis leg.
Always better to smear the eye bolt shank with 'Copper Ease' before inserting into the chassis leg.
Unless sealed (i.e. covered in underseal) fitting a plain washer/plate between the eye bolt and the chassis leg - water can still ingress into and around the chassis leg/eye bolt resulting in corrosion.

Phil

[Chazbee]

Yes thanks I'm familiar with the construction - I've no concerns regarding the integrity of the repair but will double check when adjusting camber!

[RobThomas]

Early eyebolts are different lengths to later ones. Could they have used pre Oct 1950 eyebolt by mistake?

1960s on the left, 1949 on the right and C-washers. The 1960s one doesn't have any washer on it even though it might look like one is on there.

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