Pickup restoration part three

[davidmiles]

cheers Bob, it's amazing how a rolling restoration needs so many little jobs done, and one little thing can lead to another little thing, today was a good example, I recently changed all my tyres to 165/65 r14s', (I have L917 wide rims all round)
and finally changed the spare to the 165/65 size today, it's a part worn for £20. Getchahome special, they had only two in stock, but very good tread depth.
[frame][/frame]

as I was unscrewing the spare wheel retaining bolt the ankor plate came adrift.[frame][/frame]

bit of a fiddle getting the spare off, but nobody saw, phew, but Alice did get quite a few admiring looks.
It would appear that the plate was only held on with rivets, who's heads are no longer here.[frame][/frame]

just a little weld on job when I got home, nice easy fix, but a scrub up, rub down and another area ready for the big repaint this summer[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

well that second hand drivers side front wing I originally fitted way back in 2010, has finally shown it's true colours, ie Rusty red brown colours. It was only a get me by for the first few years anyway, so it's done it's job, time for a replacement.[frame][/frame]

new one from ESM, made a special trip on tuesday to collect it, the £100 pattern, mirrors the one I brought for the nearside in 2010, and that is still going strong[frame][/frame]

I won't be drilling it for the wing mirror though. I'll get a door mirror later on[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

So first steps, primer spraying and flatting, once I've test fitted it on the car, top coats and final fitting. Long job, plan on taking my time over this.[frame][/frame]

[PaulTubby]

Be nice to hear what the quaity of ESM pattern wings are currently and what the fit is like and what you have to do to get it where you happy with it for painting.. there more then half the price of there heritage ones..

[davidmiles]

yes, I will inform you every step of the way about the fit, I had no trouble with the pattern wing on the other side, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed it's going to be the same on this side.[frame][/frame]
the wing suspended in the garge for it's second coat of primer over the flatted back first coat.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

interior side coat of hardwearing black paint, Hammerite applied on a brush.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

i'm leaving this top rear corner in primer and plan on spraying it in body colour.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

top coated and hung up out of the way to harden off[frame][/frame]

waiting for a few days off from work when I can fit the wing. In the meantime it's up here on the bike rack out of trouble.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

first steps to todays work, move the car to one side of the garage and jack it up on an axle stand and remove the front wheel.
Undo the lights and unbolt the wing.
[frame][/frame]

checking the old wing over there is rust on both sides of the rear areas. Tink my cat was in there like a shot to to have a sniff around.
[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

the new wing needed a tap here and a knock there to get it in position, the rear shut line was even all the way down, but it's here at the front, joining the hockey sticks that is where my trouble starts.[frame][/frame]

the rad panel is old, rusty and distorted, so, bolting up the wing and rad panel requires some unorthadox methods. Bolting them together, then adding the hockey stick bolted top and bottom. But this little tab suddenly made itself known, jutting out from the new wing and getting in the way[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

the old wing had to be cut apart to free up the headlamp bowl.[frame][/frame]

ready for a good scrub in a bowl of car wash[frame][/frame]

amazing the weathering it's had in the short time since it was rebuilt and through it's first MOT in 2009.[frame][/frame]

the headlamp bowl scured in place, now for the headlamp sealed beam unit[frame][/frame]

[panky]

Did you find out what the little bit sticking out was for - or did you just chop it off?
Looks a splendid job you're doing

[davidmiles]

cheers Panky, that little stub has no use I can find, it's just a manufacture stub, so I cut it off and painted it black to stop it rusting. The spring inside the headlight bucket was fighting me all the way, I was cursing not being able to find my long rat nose pliers when I noticed them on the shelf the spring clipped on first go with the longer pliers.[frame][/frame]

wires all plugged back in. wheel back on, lights check....all works![frame][/frame]

now for some beam allignment before I snap that chrome bezel back on and call this job done.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

Another February MOT fail, quite a long list this year, and Alice has done low milage since the last MOT. This year's is epic. I have never had a list like this, mainly brakes. the rest is trivial stuff that takes minutes once you have possession of the correct parts.


here's my parts list on order from ESM...


Each year I fix the brakes, and they fail at the MOT, Ive ordered a new oil seal, and that's my problem, the diff oil coming through and soaking the rear brake shoes, How do other members cope, do you use some extra sealant with the paper gasket?

[Dryad]

I used Red Hematite with the paper gasket on mine, and it has held fast for the last five years.

[davidmiles]

Red Hermatite is on my shopping list, thanks for the tip. First job on the MOT list done, the steering gaiter resecured both ends with zip ties, got my son to wheel the steering lock while I watched the gaiter do it's thing.
Now for the track rod end, the list says it's loose...

[davidmiles]

exhaust bracket welded back on, welded both sides, nice and strong, that's the third item on the list, going ok, but it's hard in a single garage finding enough room to work. Now off with the rear drums.

[mogbob]

David
Sorry the New Year hasn't exactly got off to a great start for you. Never the less , Happy New Year anyway.

Dryad's suggestion is good. The usual advice is a really good clean up , drain hole clear , no rough nicks / burrs ( dress /rub down as
necessary ). Clean hands when re assembling and a dab of clean oil on the new seal when you insert it.

The rear axle brake drums will need a good clean up. New brake shoes on the rear , if they've become contaminated. File a small chamfer
on the leading edges , to stop brake judder.
Item Failure sheet 4 leak nearside rear braking .. did the tester show you which union was the culprit ? Don't overlook the fact that it might be " diff oil " rather than brake fluid , if the seal let go and oil has been thrown around. If it wasn't crystal clear , a clean up of the rear brake lines , followed by holding down the brake pedal hard for a minute or so , should produce the evidence of a leak.
I always put a brake pipe sealant on when putting on new pipes / joints ( a belt and braces man as you know ). e.g. http://www.frost.co.uk/brake-and-pipe-seal-75ml.html there are other suppliers of course.

The imbalance of rear braking will have been affected by seal leak and brake leak ( ? ) and this , in turn , will have impacted on the handbrake /parking brake efficiency.
I'd tackle it by cleaning up , new parts fitted , leak eliminated ,copper ease applied , brake fluid topped up initially.
Slacken the handbrake cable right off and adjust the rear brake shoes. Once you're happy tighten up the handbrake cables.....individually
...... noting with the first one how much thread is exposed , properly adjusted to the relevant number of ratchet clicks. Then slacken number one cable off and adjust the other. Then reconnect the second ( to the previously measured place, so both cables operate together. Both rear wheels should now lock solid when the handbrake is applied.
Front brakes.... check visually , with the brake drums off , that nothing is amiss. You can always get your son to operate the brakes gently
for you ,working on one side at a time ( i.e leave the other side drum still fitted or the wheel cylinder will pop out !!
Have two large screwdrivers / tyre levers , whatever and brace them against the brake shoes, using the lip on the brake back plate to keep the free ends steady. That way you can see if the wheel cylinders operate as they should. Replace the drum and move to the other front wheel to check that. Hopefully it will be a simple adjustment / brake bleed to get rid of any air.
Scream , if you need a steer on anything else on the list. Keep plugging away.
Bob

[davidmiles]

with the third item crossed off my MOT failure notice, I cycled through the rain over to my local autofactors and asked for Red Hermatite, they sold me this saying it does the same thing. Was it worth the drenching, will it re enforce my rear hub paper gaskets and stop letting the diff oil soak my rear brake shoes? time will tell I guess.

[davidmiles]

MogBob, I missed your reply there, I'm going to make a nice hot, really fresh cup of tea and sit down and read it.
It's raining really heavily at the moment so time for a break. Thanks in advance for the tips.