Rear suspension question

Post by **Onne** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:43 pm

My beloved car does not sit straight at the back. The rear lhs is about 1,5" lower than the rhs. Could this just be a faulty shockabsorber???? It is squeeking a bit too. How hard would it be to replace one? And how much would such a thing cost having it done? I won't be Dutch concerning my beloved Elisabeth you know, i'd rather spend more to get it right.

Post by **Cam** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 11:21 pm

No, it won't be a shock absorber (damper). They don't affect the ride height.

It is either the front suspension set incorrectly (check this first) or an old sagging (or broken!

) leaf spring at the rear. Have a look underneath to see. Count the number of leaves too as my saloon had a saloon spring (5 leaf) and a Traveller spring (7 leaf) on when I bought it. This caused it to sit a bit uneven.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Mar 24, 2005 7:42 pm

Have answered on the other thread - but will say again - cars usually sag down on the driver's side. You could swap the springs over which will probably work provided of course there are no broken leaves. Or fit one new spring, or just make and fit longer shackles on the low side. 1" longer shackle will raise the car by approx 2". I don't suggest you go any longer than that ! But also inspect the bodywork in case it is the dreaded RUST where the springs meet the bodyshell. And dampers have no effect on ride height - they just damp !!

Post by SR » Thu Mar 24, 2005 7:46 pm

im gonna try some soon from JLH , [longer shackles], very good time/moneysaving idea ,steve

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Mar 24, 2005 8:47 pm

The rear lhs is about 1,5" lower than the rhs

If the rear measurements are not equal and the fronts are perfectly level then either the ground isn't flat or the shel is a bit twisted.

Post by **Onne** » Thu Mar 24, 2005 9:05 pm

It has had a wee accident in the past, the rear bumper is a bit bent too. Just a coincident then, with the shock squeeking?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Mar 25, 2005 8:01 pm

They are not 'shocks' - they are DAMPERS !! The 'shock' of hitting a lump in the road is taken by the spring - it absorbs the 'shock' - the dampers simply damp out unwanted oscillations. Without them the car would hop about like a kangaroo. If it's squeeking then rebush the link arm. If it's not damping very well - fill it up with thicker oil !

Post by **Onne** » Fri Mar 25, 2005 8:40 pm

sorry, this ois the language barrier. how hard are those to replace? Or could I just temoprarily fill them up with grease to prevent squueking. Thanks for thye help

Post by **57traveller** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 10:37 am

Don't fill it with grease. Secured by two nuts and bolts (could need soaking in penetrating oil first) and a bushed (same as other suspension bushes) link arm to the car body. The top nut utilises a split pin which will probably be impossible to remove so just slacken the nut and shear off the split pin and drill out afterwards. The lower end is a taper fit into the end of the damper lever and it might be easier to remove the arm with the damper and extract the taper afterwards. It is recommended anyway to remove the rear dampers for filling because they are fitted at an angle and cannot be fully topped up insitu. It will also be possible to determine if it is the damper itself that's "squeaking" once disconnected from the vehicle body and to check the lever movement, smooth or otherwise.

Post by **Onne** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 10:47 am

The car is straight when I sit in it though, 10" round on a flat surface

Post by **bigginger** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 1:04 pm

57traveller wrote: The lower end is a taper fit into the end of the damper lever and it might be easier to remove the arm with the damper and extract the taper afterwards.

"Might be"? Surely "will be"!... or is that just my luck?

Post by **57traveller** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 2:35 pm

I think I've probably been surprisingly luck usually Andrew and been able to "break" the taper insitu using a ball joint splitter. But yes "will be" is probably the correct term!

Post by **bigginger** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 4:18 pm

Might not be - LCV's dont have the comedy rear suspension, so I don't know

, but if it's anything like any other taper joint...

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 9:13 pm

If the car is 'flat' when you sit in it - then that's perfect ! Leave it alone. Fill the dampers with 20w50 oil for good damping - after pumping out all the evil smelling old oil inside - over the years the oil gets torn apart by being forced through the tiny restrictor holes. New 20w50 will make a big difference - but you need to work all the air out and keep topping up - needs a bit of patience.

Post by **bigginger** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 9:59 pm

Shouldn't it be hydraulic oil (ie Jack oil)? Apologies if that's another money saving tip I've missed

Post by **Cam** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 4:11 pm

Yes, it's dangerous to fill the dampers with MUCH thicker oil as things can break/shear! That's why it's recommended to fill the dampers with the correct oil which is available from most moggy places.

Post by **Kevin** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 11:59 pm

I am with you on that point guys as the front damper mounting bolts can shear so it follows that the rears will suffer as well.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Mar 28, 2005 5:23 pm

Perfectly ok to use 20w50 in the dampers - have done so for years with no problems. Obviously - make sure the fixing bolts are nice and tight and the damper is not leaking. Considerably better damping - in fact - I have also used EP90 in the past for my 'rally' Minor- but I thought that may be a bit much for most on here ! The main thing is to get the horrible old knackered oil out - and new oil in.