bearings

Post by **dellboy** » Wed Apr 23, 2003 6:50 pm

I TOOK MY MORRIS FOR AN M.O.T THEY SAID THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS WAS BADLY WORN .IS IT A BIG JOB TO DO.

ALSO THE
SEATS ARE LIGHT BLUE & GONE VERY PALE IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN
USE TO MAKE THEM BRIGHT. AGAIN SUCH AS A DYE OR SOMETHING
THANKS VERY MUCH TERRY

Post by **Willie** » Wed Apr 23, 2003 7:09 pm

since we don't know your level of mechanical aptitude that is hard
to answer. The front wheel bearings are bought as a kit which consists
of,for one side only, an inner and outer ballrace together with a new
oil seal. These bearings MUST be fitted with the THRUST faces in the
correct position. If this baffles you then DO NOT attempt the job
yourself. I have seem several instances where the large split-
pinned nut has not been tightened up, so it may be worth removing
the split pin and checking that the nut IS DONE UP TIGHTLY.
With regard to the faded trim, the only thing you could try is one of
the advertisers of upholstery paint.....if you send them a small piece
of your UNFADED trim they will mix up a matching special paint solution.
Look in Practical Classics.

Post by **Cam** » Wed Apr 23, 2003 9:21 pm

To be honest, the best thing to do is have a look at the Haynes manual, and if you have not got one, then you can usually pick up one from eBay for a couple of quid. Or get a new one from Halfords or your local factor.

Look the job up, and if it looks scary to you, then don't attempt it!!!

A wheel bearing replacement is usually quite easy and should not take very long, but it does involve drifting the old bearing out of the hub and drifting the new one in. I usually use a hammer and screwdrivers (carefully) for this task. If you don't like the sound of that then like Willie says - DO NOT attempt the job!

Post by **stormin** » Wed Apr 23, 2003 10:49 pm

I usually use a hammer and screwdrivers (carefully) for this task

Bad advice, NEVER use a hammer and scredriver to drift or move bearings or siezed items. No I'm not being prissy or clever but removing pieces of plastic from your eye is NOT a DIY job

Post by **Cam** » Wed Apr 23, 2003 11:37 pm

NEVER use a hammer and screwdriver to drift or move bearings

What method do you suggest then?

removing pieces of plastic from your eye

I would assume that you have had a very bad experience with a shattered screwdriver handle. Obviously it is up to the individual concerned to take the usual health and safety precautions.

And I'M not being prissy or clever, but I have been using the hammer and screwdriver method for years with no problems. If you GENTLY tap the bearing round the edges, taking care to see that you don't dig in anywhere and that the bearing is coming out uniformly then I don't see a problem. Obviously when fitting the new bearing the screwdriver is not needed.

I think that it is a bit harsh to refer to the method as 'Bad advice' though. Any opinions to the contrary would be gratefully received.

Post by **Chris Morley** » Thu Apr 24, 2003 12:45 am

Obviously you use commonsense when hitting anything with a hammer. If there's any chance of debris flying up then wear protective goggles.

If a lot of force is to be applied then a brittle plastic handled screwdriver is inappropriate. Use an impact screwdriver, most of which have a metal top and a rubberised plastic grip.

Post by **stormin** » Thu Apr 24, 2003 9:17 pm

No I am not talking from personal experiance, but I know a man who has!!
The best thing to use is a piece of steel tube the correct diameter or a socket, the next best thing is a brass or steel drift.

Post by **Cam** » Thu Apr 24, 2003 11:10 pm

The best thing to use is a piece of steel tube the correct diameter or a socket

The problem with that method is that on certain hubs (Midget, Mini etc) there is a spacer cast into the centre that you have to press the new bearings up to (inner and outer) so they cannot be removed by drifting from one end. They have to be removed individually outwards from the centre of the hub, which is where the screwdriver comes in as it is the only thing small enough to pass through one bearing and sit on the inner egde of the other that you are trying to remove.

Unfortunately there does not seem to be a puller that is suited to this task either, so in this case the screwdriver and hammer method seems not only appropriate but the only solution!

Post by **dellboy** » Fri Apr 25, 2003 2:10 pm

hi all thanks for your advice it was all very good .i took my car back for
a another m.o.t and low and behold it past.all i did was cleen out all the
old grease.and then pack it with new .it would have cost me about
£120 to have it done .thanks very much to you all terry

Post by **Willie** » Fri Apr 25, 2003 7:11 pm

OH! Please can I have the name of that grease? I've been looking
for something like that for years! along with a 'putting back file'! Seriously, was it the same MOT
station? If the grease 'cured' it I am afraid it will not last long.

Post by **dellboy** » Fri Apr 25, 2003 8:18 pm

hi willie it was the same MOT STATION.my mate said the bearings had not
worn when we first had alook at them before the MOT THERE WAS NO
NOISE from the wheel at all .i think they tride to pull a fast one. if it goes
in the next few weeks i will let you know terry

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Apr 26, 2003 10:49 pm

I think I know that garage technique...
On a previous occasion I've had a failed trunnion which on closer inspection was fine - i cleaned it, painted it and put it back on to get a pass. I've also done a similar imaginary 'repair' on a Celica track rod end.

If it looks like it was replaced you don't have to argue about their mistake, and they won't take their revenge at the next MOT.

At the last MOT for Gayle's Minor they failed the horn which worked fine, so I reckoned they didn't press the button properly. For the repeat test I took it back 10 minutes later and I told them I'd not reconnected it and it was now done, and I pressed the button for them - BEEP BEEP - I'll have my MOT now please ;-)

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Apr 29, 2003 4:31 pm

Ray I had a similar thing with a car I used to own and when I queried the horn failure as I had checked it before the MOT the mechanic pressed it and it was fine, it was only some time later that I found if the Steering Wheel was turned at a slight angle the horn did not work but was fine in most positions and I then forgot all about it so I assume it must be something to do with the contact on the column

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Apr 29, 2003 7:34 pm

Yes, that can happen if the contact arm is badly adjusted or there is debris built up on the contact ring (mine were both OK though)

I had one problem with the hazards on the Volvo - He said they didn't work when he pressed the swithch bu I could find nothing wrong. After a few days of pressing the swithch I eventually got it to stick half way as the dashboard surround was distorted with age! Quickly repaired with a few self tappers I was glad to find that.
I guess if a swithch doesn't work I press it again to make sure, but apparently that's not good enough for an MOT ;-)