My pick-up has failed to start today first low on fuel. Put a gallon in and fuel to the plugs and no spark I took plug out was wet..... cranked it over and no spark
This vehicle is not in the road and being rebuilt....... last ran a few weeks or a month ago! Running AccuSpark distributor but never been a good starter. Also notice high revs and it will miss or cut out starts again. But today nothing.
Select DC volts on the meter - low range (maybe 20 or 200 volts) and then red probe to the terminal and black to a good earth. I looked at the YouTube - Yaaaaaaawnnnnnnn - and the coil he so laboriously 'checks out' giving 1.6 ohms is a 6 volt coil for use on a ballast ignition - for a 12 volt coil on a Minor we expect 3.2 ohms....... and frankly the 00.3 ohms he gets so excited about is not important. As long as you get something like 3 ohms - it's fine. But what you need to check at the moment is the DC voltage at each terminal - to see if it's getting any volts !
Forgot to mention coil was new when installed a few years back, but as mentioned its not on the road yet. Its a black standard coil no brand shown and its mounted horizontally does that need to be changed to being vertical
Last edited by RussLCV on Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
bmc 3.2 is way to high for electronic ignition thats a points coil i found out that by try it on my moggy changed from points to elec it run bad put 1.5 ohm coil on ran fine
Check the terminals on the coil. Some are riveted on and these can cause problems. I took one off my traveller least week and binned it for exactly this reason. It was making contact only sometimes and the terminals were loose and easy to jiggle.
Made starting very hit and miss but when running the vibration kept the terminals moving about and making contact.
3.2 Ohms is the CORRECT resistance (actually impedance) for the coil when used with the likes of Accuspark or Powerspark Ignition. There may be early systems that needed a special coil - but I doubt it. The low resistance coils are for ballast ignition use ONLY -and will burn out if used on a normal system.
I've had a bad experience of AccuSpark ign units sorry Russ. Mine too, was working fine and then one morning last year it just unexpectedly without any warning completely failed.
I sent the module unit back to accuspark and in fairness to them they replaced the unit FOC with a complete new packed up one and no quibbles asked, but I never actually refitted the unit and now retain my CB points/condenser.
ive been running the accuspark system for 5 years and not had a problem and the other system i had was lumatroic and that is still running in a friends car
Look guys no issues with AccuSpark......I just have no spark!
All new gear was working last time I fired her up.
BMCecosse to test coil with meter as you suggest should the ignition be on?
Also for info last time it fired up took ages and then seemed to fire and ran well (3-4 weeks ago) it garage in an integral garage not cold and no damp
Roy.............what can I say superb info as always. Done as you said and no power! Then I remembered that I changed the fuse box after I last started it and white wire on wrong fuse terminal. Corrected that and checked again and 12.32 showing at the coil.
Turned the key and she started up first time thanks again BMCECOSSE!
and frankly the 00.3 ohms he gets so excited about is not important. As long as you get something like 3 ohms - it's fine. But what you need to check at the moment is the DC voltage at each terminal - to see if it's getting any volts !