i have a series 11 which i can only describe as being altered as opposed to modified.
my question refers to rear brakes.. diff has been changed it appears to be two different halves as it has no means of filling it.
engine & gearbox is midget 111.
backplate has 34571rh drum ata7057 & thingy in the middle cdm 15564t2jgsbmowogata7057 impressed on them
does anybody have any idea what type of vehcle these are off
sorry about length of question
If it's the later 'banjo' type axle and there is no filler then it's probably got a 1098 diff (4.22:1) in a 948 casing. I doubt this though as it can only be filled up if the axle is upside down!
hi Cam.
It has a 'banjo' type axle & yes I could not find a filler hole, which was a little sad after I had drained all the oil out!
I eventually refilled it via the breather.
I expect that is easier than turning it uspide-down!
(I was wondering if you could just remove the prop, and take out the eye-bolts to rotate it 180°, but then I remembered the brakes )
sooo
what type of brake shoes do i need?
i have ha this vehicle for the past 20 years resting up in my garage
i thought it was about time that i paid him more attention!
unfortunately about ten years ago i deceided to replace the shoes that were on the car and threw out the old ones.
having looked at them the other day. the ones i put on are far too tight.. they only just about go on with a bit of persuasion with the adjuster full off.
having looked at them the other day. the ones i put on are far too tight.. they only just about go on with a bit of persuasion with the adjuster full off.
They may be just poor pattern parts as I've had that in the past.
On some shoes I had to shorten the steel by 1 or 2mm with the trusty angle grinder and on nearly all of them the adjuster will only turn half way before fouling, so this area needs to be dressed (ground / filed) to suyit the adjuster.
In addition you should check the drum and clean away any build up if debris and rust that can form on the non-contacting part of the surface at the very edge as it reduces the clearance even more.
to clarify a point then, the axle is prob 1098, Yes?
because there is a difference in the wheel cylinders between the 803,948 and the 1098 rbk 105 & rbk 106
No, the axle is probably 948 if you have no filler on the back of it. The DIFF would be 1098. The brakes should be the same (7") for the 948 and 1098 axles.
sorry to sound a bit dense but, the cylinder--assembly wheel in my book shows a difference between the 948 & the 1098 also the adjuster, although the shoes are the same. as you say for all models. Could the wrong cylinder account for the tight fit. Its hard to remember 10 years ago and my paperwork doesn't tell me what cylinders I put on. I dont know whether this makes any difference but the wheels also appear to be mg 165x13
Pretty sure it's just rusty rims on the drums,new shoes etc. BUT - make sure the cylinders are free moving - and check they can slide up and down in the backplate - and slacken off the handbrake cables at the lever in the car to let the shoes settle right down on the cylinder stops. Then adjust up the shoes first - before re-adjusting the handbrake cables.
Doesn't really matter - they are all 7" - Mini ones fit just fine, and are plentiful and cheap ! Oops - sorry, not meant to suggest economical motoring on here !! Or so it seems.
economy is morris's middle name is it not?
attempted to take rear brake cylinder off today but it would not clear the hub
does anybody know the difference between the 948 cylinder & the 1098 one
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