Torsion bar head scratcher.

[The Black Baron]

Well here we are, another Thursday evening in the garage, another little problem!

We are currently working on front suspension height. As we left it last time, we had modded the suspension but got the front end of the bar on the wrong spline, so it was sitting on the bump stops. We have started on this and dismantled the front end: managed to prise the eye bolt out of the chassis rail and moved it round one spline okay. Trying to reassemble it all and now the eyebolt is way out of going back in the hole. It is just over the thickness of the bolt out of alignment (see pic) and we cannot see where we are going wrong. Certainly don't remember having this issue before and no amount of force is getting this thing back in.

We did discuss removing the rear end, but I did some searching and saw Roy's advice not to play with the rear end of the bar. Can't see how it would help anyway.

What are we missing here? Shouldn't be this hard and it's getting on my tabs, so I thought I'd take a step back and consult you good folks.

A virtual penny for your thoughts (and apologies for crap photo)!

David.[frame][/frame]

[simmitc]

You do not and should not remove the eye bolt in order to adjust the suspension. The lower arm moves backwards along the torsion bar, move it round one spling, and then move it forwards back into position. It should be possible to remove and refit the torsion bar without touching the eyebolt. The front adjusment is coarse 1.5 inches, the rear adjuster plate allows increments of 1/4 inch.

[The vast minority]

It's a 15 minute job, you have somehow over complicated In a big way.
As said already, split the lower suspension arms, knock the rear one backwards and then put on another spline and rebuild.


Al

[philthehill]

As above - there is absolutely no need to remove the eye bolt to re-set the suspension height.
Split the arms and knock the thick arm back off the torsion bar splines and move the thick arm round to the required setting.
Get rid of the masking tape and use the measurements in the attached drawing to get the initial setting and work from there.
I suspect that the rear end of the eye bush pin is against the torsion bar so restricting its movement rearwards.[frame][/frame]
The measurement 'C' = 5 5/8" difference is the one you want as the initial setting then move one spline at a time until it is just as you want it.
Phil

[bmcecosse]

As above - you should not touch the eyebolt. By the way you describe it you need to move 2 splines round. It really is a 15 minute job (unless everything is rusted up). Do you have a workshop manual? If not - dowload it FREE from Google !

[les]

Don't know how you managed to get the eye bolt out of the chassis rail with the bar still connected, it must have put a terrific strain on things, as it wouldn't have been a straight pull. Dismantle and replace the eye bolt as a separate item, and work from there.

[The Black Baron]

Eep! Your advice is consistent and understood! And I thank you!

Seems we have over-complicated it (it has been 20 years since we worked on it though guys! No excuse for not reading instructions, I know...) Haynes Manjeul didn't explain this, but it's no excuse.

I can see now that the issue was that the rear arm wouldn't move back on the splines, thus preventing the eye bolt slotting in- we assumed it was stopped and we were working from that. Time to clean it up and revisit.

Thursday tomorrow, so we will work on it again, and no doubt I will come back to you.

Thanks for your support and advice thus far. You know that your guidance helping novice garagistas like us will get another one of these cars back on the road (and if anybody with knowledge and firm hands fancies a working holiday on the IOW, we can come to some arrangement!)



David.

[bmcecosse]

Give the splines a good wire brushing -and soak in release oil. It will need a bit of 'persuasion' to move - but don't be too hard on it - it needs to be tight on the splines to work effectively.

[The Black Baron]

Finally, a productive evening!

We ended up removing the rear front-arm and it was the union at the front that was held fast and stopping the arm from sliding back on the bar. After tapping it out and giving it all a good clean up, it all went back together smoothly. Easy when you know how!

It is still riding a bit low at the front, but at least we know the procedure now, so dropping it down another spline shouldn't prove troublesome (famous last words). Next time we'll attack the other side, drop it down a bit more and see how we go.

Cheers again all for the advice.

[bmcecosse]

You should knock the arm towards the back of the car till it comes off the splines - move it round as required and then pull it forward again. No need to disturb the eyebolt, or the stud and cup that secure the torsion bar to the eyebolt. It is however a good opportunity to fit polyurethane bushes - and perhaps adjust the camber while working in the area.

[The Black Baron]

Both sides down now. Following your guidance, the opposite side really didn't take long.

Drivers sidelining about 3/4" high, so I guess now it's fine tuning at the rear end...

Still, I'm hoping that's a small issue. Still struggling with the engine/gearbox location. I will find and update my earlier thread shortly.

[bmcecosse]

Run the car on the road to let it all settle before adjusting any more. And with driver on board - it will probably sit pretty much level now.