I noticed a wee bit ago that the heater valve (new style) is leaking quite a bit of water and appears to be seized as my heater never goes warm. My solution was to buy a new old style tap valve and gasket from ESM when i was buying some other bits and bobs and will fit it when i have a bit of time. Well now is the time, and i have realised i've got no idea how I should go about replacing/what tools i need (I'm a complete car novice in case you haven't guessed).
Would anyone be able to help with some quick instructions/tips/tool guide?
Would be a massive help as my car is getting chilly
Undo two nuts - remove valve - remove hose from valve - clean surface - fit new gasket - fit valve - tighten two nuts (7/16"AF) - fit hose. Run engine and top up coolant (antifreeze). Simples !
No (well it may - but it's not right!) - the tools needed on a Minor engine/gearbox/axle are AF (across flats). Metric fits nothing. You need 7/16" AF. And I doubt a socket will get in there - so a combination ring/open end is ideal. May as well get a set of AF spanners .......
so i successfully installed the new heater valve - was a bit fiddly getting the spanner into the nook to remove the rh bolt, but got there in the end. was absolutely amazed at the colour of water that came out of the piping, along with a whole load of brown gunk.
so it's fixed the issue of the leaking old valve draining the radiator, but i still think my heater is running cold (although i didnt take the car out for a spin, so not sure the water ever got hot enough). Will have a look around for some advice on cleaning out the heating manifold and draining the radiator.
Make sure the valve is open - then just take it out for a good hard run - to pump water round the system. Of course - you may have a thermostat problem if the water never gets hot. Be sure to use anti-freeze at this time of year.
should be able to bleed it with the valve open and the rad cap off with the engine idling on the drive , as soon as the stat opens the air gets pushed out the top of the rad ive allways found them easy to do .
I agree - i've never known an 'air lock' - but at idle speed there is little force from the water pump to push the water round the heater circuit - so some decent revs may be required.
some good news for me - took the mog out for a spin last night and was welcomed with warm heater air after just a few minutes of driving! so much hot air that i had to roll the windows down at one point..
might still flush the radiator through given the colour of the water that came out, but makes it less of a pressing issue.
